I was wondering when it comes to bleeding the brakes, installing race pads, keeping tire psi in check....is this all done at the track? Or do you do drive out on the new pads and fluid and just use the tracks air to keep the tires in check?

For the casual first time tracker, having to bring a small tool shop kind of bums me out. I'd rather go to a local shop and have the pads and fluid done is my point. Or do I need to "get over it'.

 

You will be pretty busy at the race track, between class and lapping sessions. You want to do the maximum before the event. Plus, its not a bad idea to drive around a bit with the track pads. It will make the actual bedding easier.

Make a list of the things you might need. Including a hat, sunscreen and plenty to drink. It’s not just the car that need to be at peak performance! ;-)

 

.... yup... what they said...

Here is a really good article for first-timers from a member of BMWCCA..
http://www.trackschedule.com/wisdom10.html

Basically... have all your fluids changed before the event, upgrade your brake pads-- everyone agrees you shouldn't use stock or 'parts store' pads for track...(search the forums for recomendations and numerous heated exchanges about whether noobs should run race pads or not - IMHO, there IS a happy medium)... and have some spare items available in case something goes awry.

There should be plenty of people at the track with all the tools you might need in case of emergency, and most will be more than willing to help you out as well.

I'll reiterate the need for an extra set of rear brake pads too... especially on a 350Z

 

I do all the stuff the week before, but I still bring the basic tools to the track in case I need them...luckily the Z is still so new I barely have to touch it!
(I bring tools to bleed/change pads, 1 bottle brake fluid, extra set of brake pads [I now swap track pads the week before, so I bring my street pads as a back up], 1 bottle engine oil, zip ties & duct tape, tire pressure gauge...)

 

Do you have a set of track rotors, too? I throught you shouldn't swap pads without swapping rotors...

 

Ideally yes, it would be better to swap rotors too.

But it's a big hassle and no body I know do it.

 

Great info thanks!

I definitely would change out all the pads front and rear. I flush my system every year with Motul fluid. But I will make sure that put in higher temp fluid as well, before the race.

 

Everyone here is giving you great advice.
To add to it, remember you need to properly bed your brakes pads (track pads BTW, you're wasting money and safety by using street pads). The normal process is to do 30mph to 5mph 6 - 8 times. Then from 60mph to 5mph 6 - 8 times. Then 100mph - 5mph 6 - 8 times. This will bed in your track pads well. Also, should turn the rotors or use new ones to have the pads bed properly to the rotors.

Good luck and have fun.

 

To add to everything said - some tracks don't let you work on your car there, and some are so bad that you have to have some plywood under your jack. Check with the track before you go to see what their rules are.

Take everything out of the car (everything!) before you go. If you don't - you can at the track - but then it will rain on all your stuff (at least that is my luck). Here is what NASA has to say:

What to Wear: Obviously, dress comfortably and for the weather conditions, but remember that long sleeves and pants are a requirement while on the track. Beyond that, wear natural fibers like cotton, which will not bond to the skin in case of fire. No shorts or open-toed shoes are allowed for drivers or passengers.

What to Bring:
A helmet, if you have one, M90/SA90 or newer rating (loaners may be available)
Hats, sunglasses, and suntan lotion
Picnic lunch
Nonalcoholic beverages
Rain gear (if you bring it, then it won't rain)
Chairs
A tarp or other ground covering (to set up camp on, and to store the things you remove from your car before driving on the track)
A camera and/or videocamera - if you want pictures
A Friend/Crew Member

Safety: Our main goal is to provide fun that is both safer and faster than street driving. We employ policies developed over 10 years by professional instructors, emergency response teams and drivers.

Car Tech: Cars will be subjected to an extensive Technical Inspection before they are allowed on the track. In advance, make sure you meet the following minimum requirements. Cars that cannot pass Tech at the track on the morning of the event will not receive entry fee refunds!

All loose items, both inside and outside the car, must be removed. This includes glove compartment contents, storage bin contents, floor mats, tool kits, jacks, hubcaps, trim rings, fender skirts, etc. Spare tires may remain in the vehicle if they are securely bolted down. T-tops, targa tops, sunroofs, and moonroofs may remain on vehicles only if they are held down securely.
Seat belts must be functional and properly secured. Seat backs and frames shall be secured. This applies to all seats which shall contain drivers, instructors, or passengers.
Wheels must be firmly attached, with all studs and lug nuts present and tight.
Wheel bearings must be tight.
Tires must be in good condition, with no cord patches or belts showing and no cracks in the tread or sidewall. In addition, tires must be sufficiently inflated.
The throttle shall have a fully functioning return spring.
The brake pedal must have adequate pressure. The brake fluid reservoir must be full.
The battery shall be securely mounted and/or held down.
No excessive fuel, oil, water, or brake fluid leaks shall be allowed.
Brake lights must be fully functioning.
Exhaust systems must exit behind the driver.

In addition, we recommend the following:
A full tank of gas
A fresh oil change
Fresh, full coolant
Fresh high-temp brake fluid (like AP550 or ATE Super Blue or Ford HD)
Brake pads/shoes with at least 1/2 of original thickness remaining

Roll Bars: They are required in all convertible vehicles and recommended (but not required) in all vehicles. The definition of a roll bar is "substantial rearward metal bracing utilizing four or more points of attachment through the decking to the uni-body structure of the vehicle". Factory hardtops and bolt-on "style bars" do not qualify.

 

The advantage to having a separate set of pads and rotors, as I've been told, is that you don't have to bed in the pads each time you change.

Going to the track? Install the track pads and rotors. Driving on the street? Install the street pads and rotors.

Track pads on the street is generally asking for trouble. They tend to not work as well until they are warmed up, and street driving doesn't give them that chance.

 

If you're using true race pads (Hawk Blues, Cobalt Frictions VR compound, etc.), change them once you arrive at the track. They are very abrasive when cold and will EAT your rotors alive! As Raceit mentioned, bed them in properly, well in advance of the track day and then put your street pads back in.

Personally, I like the street/track compounds like Cobalt Friction's GT-Sport pad on my Brembos. They are not a true race pad, but work well enough for both moderate track use AND the street.

 

If you do that, you're just overlaying non-compatible pad compoud on your rotor, decreasing pads performance.

Before any bed in, we need to get rid of the previous pad's compound. THe easiest way to do that is to run the track pads on the street one or two days before the track event. The abrasive nature of the pad running cold will clean the rotor and bring it back to bare metal.

Then, at the race track during the initial session we can properly bed the track pads on the fresh rotors surface.

Keep the track pads again for a day or two after the event to clean the track compound off and finally swap back you're street pads. Bed these in and you're done.

That technique from Caroll Smith can be found on the StopTech web site white papers.

Track pads cannot be bedded correctly on the street without risking loosing your licence. The required temps are just too high.

 

that's my current way of doing it...as of now, I'll probably do a handfull of track events each year, so the it's not too bad - but I doubt I'd find the time if I was going to the track every other weekend. Plus, my wife works from home, so I can usually start work on the Z the Wed before events and just drive our civic.

 

Here's another noob question... if you all are bleeding brakes, chaning pads,etc, I assume you also need a jack, jack stands, ramps, etc. or am I missing something? Sorry, I haven't been to an event yet (but I really want to try Autocross/Solo II).

 

Yep.

I have a low profile jack from SEARS.

 

I had been using the OE jack, but the portion that is used to turn it started to bend, so I now carry my small floor jack to events.

 

Yes, you need to jack your car up. Reason being is that you need access to the brake lines which means you need to take the wheel off. This will give you access to the brake nipple...yes, I said nipple.

I won't go through the whole brake bleeding process but essentially what you are shooting for is forcing brake fluid through the system which will "bleed" the brake fluid through. Unless you have a vacuum bleeding system or "one person" bleeding kit, you will need someone to help you by pushing on the brake to push the brake fluid through the system. The 2nd person will be working the bleeding nut to open and close while orchestrating with the person pushing on the brake. It is ESSENTIAL, that you not let any air into the system. This means that you must keep an eye on the brake fluid resivoir to make sure it doesn't get too low so as to introduce air into the system. And, you must make sure to tell the person pressing the brake when to push and let go of the brake. Before they let go of the brake, you must have the bleeding nut closed so air won't get introduced into the system from that end.
As an aside, but just as important, do NOT introduce water or other fluid into the brake fluid. This can happen if you use a funnel to put brake fluid into the resivoir.

Ok, so I didn't exactly tell you how to do this step by step, as you can likely search for a forum to explain it fully, but I thought it was important to discuss some of the more important aspects of bleeding the system. If you want to flush, use a brake fluid that is a different color than the one that is in there now and keep doing the process until the color fully changes. Note that the colors will blend as they transition.