Work has been busy, but I was able to find some time and get the shop guys onto my track trailer. I'm undecided on the way to secure the tires. Which is better (see photos)?

With the dual bar retainer, only 41" of the 48" total trailer width can be used because of the tube bend. However, if I go with this design I will have them make it with no bends (miter cut it). They are also making a combination one for me to see. Essentially, there is two bars 6" apart connected to the vertical peice that is tightened to the main frame - yeah I know, I can't explain worth a poop.

I've got a plastic type tool box, 3x3x2, a 180 cubic centimeter nitrogen bottle and my ez-up 12X15 tent to add.

Anyway, which design do you think is better? Why?

 

Neither. Fab up a bar that attaches to both ends and goes through the middle of the wheels. Done deal.

 

*a removable bar obviously

 

That is often used. However, what I found is that the bar ends up damaging the wheels (scratches) and the center caps must be removed. I wanted to limit the wheel contact as much as possible. I did consider the center bar, but ruled it out.

 

A metal bar with a PVC pipe around it? That's the setup I plan to use, eventually, if I keep towing my 6x8 trailer, though I may just start towing the car instead.

 

You could easily cover the center metal bar with something that won't damage the rims.

 

Dude... what part of track wheels don't you understand

You're gonna get 'em scratched, not to mention all the caked on brake dust, and you don't want to run center caps on them anyway!

FWIW... of the two designs you showed, I think the dual-bar way would be the safer way to go. Only thing that would worry me is relying on the securing bolts to take all the forces of holding the wheels in place. If one of those bolts breaks or comes loose, there go your wheels.

If you go with a 'bar-through' design, it could be designed to simply secured with large removable cotter pins, with the bar and framework holding the wheels in place, not the securing screws... the cotter pin would be simply to keep the bar from sliding out

 

I have been towing a trailer for two years. I had a center bar that is picked up by 4X2 U angle iron. The wheels rest on two 1X1 tubing cross bars. I wrapped Gas tape around the center bar to protect the center of the wheels. It has a 36" aluminum box in front for storage. The canopy fits into the box. This setup also trailers nice up to 75mph but most of the time I travel at 63mph on the freeways.

 

I don't have a picture of my trailer, but I made a real easy tire frame for mine. I did it myself to.

BTW - make sure that you have more weight between the trailer wheel and the tow vehicle, this will make the trailer a lot more stable. That is why I put my tire rack in front of the trailer and it pulls really nice.

And Stacy is right - who cares if you scratch track wheels! Actually, I think track damage looks cool on the car and tires! Kind of like scars, they are the same as tattoos but with much better stories!

 

MoodDude's got a point on having all the weight on the rear of the trailer, it will sway and the wind hitting it that far back will enhance the problem.

 

My trailer has the pass through the center bar, and if you have less than a full complement of tires they inevitably tip and scratch the powder coat on the rim. It bothered me for about one track day. The same way the first bumble bee that imbedded its carapace into my bumper at 160mph and left a paint chip bothered me. .......................it is worth it!

 

I'm not worried about the track wheels as I am my daily and winter wheels. And to make things easier, removing, storing and replacing the center caps is just something I want to avoid. The bar through the wheels works, no argument, but I wanted to secure the tires (ie. no movement) and I think these do that.

As far as weight goes. I'll have plenty. My canopy is close to 75 pounds, the tool case is 40 empty, well over 100 pounds in rotors and pads, jack stands, jack..... There's alot, not to mention the nitrogen tank that is damn heavy and I may just drop this from my list. I may just keep the tank in my garage at home.

Overall the trailer is 4X6 and the rack is quickly removed for towing my tractor or bikes or whatever. Having the rack closer to the rear also allows for easier tire placement. I'm all about easy.

 

They are track wheels after all is true.

BUT my wife likes the looks of the track wheels better than my street NISMO's, and since she gave me the track wheels and tires, I have taken some steps to keep them looking good while rolling along on my ZToo Track trailer wheel/tire rack. I just use the cardboard circles that came in my CCW shipping box to slip in between the wheels in the rack. I have a pull thru cinch strap and lock cable so I cut small wedges in thne card board.

If you must protect "track wheels" on the rack this seems to work fine. I just have not been able to fine a high enough quality duct tape to keep those card board circles on the wheels while I am running on the track. Got any ideas boys?

And, let me say - what a fine looking track trailer. Good job!

 

Thank you. My plan is to have less than 100 pounds on the tounge. As it stands (the engineering guys) have calculated about 50 pounds. I can move the tool box around to get a different amount if needed. I'll test it around Chicago once it's all together.

 

Watch out for the plastic tool boxes. Many have thier hinges (plastic with a metal thread) on the outside of the box. That hinge can be cut with a box knife in about 4 seconds.

You might look at the metal "RV boxes". I found a good selection in the Lowes Special order track box catalog that hangs in the tool box section. I found one with a good/better lock, fold down front for ease of access (makes a horizontal shelf, a slide out tool tray, and handy side separate compartments.

 

 

Another vote for through the wheels. You don't have to go in the center of the wheel you can have it go through the wheel spokes.

The other problem with your three pole rack is I would bet if someone let the air out of your tires they could get your tires out of the rack. That is why you need something to go through the wheel.

The best thing you could do is just have some aluminum diamond plate cut and enclose your trailer, out of site out of mind.

 

Well balanced about 70 lbs on the tongue.