mhoward1

You pivot the caliper. Remove the bottom pin bolt and swing the caliper up. Pull the old pads out, push the piston in, put the track pads on, rebolt and pump the brakes until firm.

while there you should bleed them before each event to have fresh fluid.

HRMoneyPit

Just googled how to do it. Wow it's a million times easier then cars without fixed calipers


Now where are you track guys to help me with a pad

N80

Most race pads will work fine on the street, even in cold weather. I have not seen any lack in cold grip with Carbotechs, Hawk DT-60 or EBC Yellow Stuff. The compromise comes primarily from dust and noise.

To answer the main question, I recently tried Hawk DT-60s after switching from OEM non-Brembo calipers to used OEM Brembos. Prior to that I primarily used Carbotch XP-10s or XP-12s.

The DT-60s do not have the initial bite of the Carbotech XP-10s and at first I was concerned that they would not have the overall level of grip as the XP-10s I was used to. (The DT-60 does not have anything like the initial bite or overall grip of the XP-12s but I did not expect them too.) However, the grip of the DT-60s seemed to have a more linear progression and better modulation than the XP-10s. At threshold braking I'd rate the DT-60s close to the XP-10s. I also noticed that even though the DT-60s had adequate cold breaking for street use, they didi seem to improve with a fair amount of heat. I experienced no brake fade from the DT-60s at CMP and in fact, after one session they smoked for close to 5 minutes after a 20 minute session (in which I was getting used to them and braking way too late) and there was still no fade. They also never left any deposits on my rotors (which is a frequent problem I've had with the Carbotechs when I overheat them......which leads to vibration and a pulsing brake pedal).

Now, this is comparing the DT-60 in Brembo calipers with the XP-10 in OEM non-Brembos. So it may not be a fair comparison. So, I have not given up on the Carbotechs by any stretch. What will clinch my decision is how the Hawks wear. I have not pulled them off the car yet so that remains to be seen. If they wear better than the Carbotechs (I could get 3 weekends at most at CMP (more at VIR or Roebling)) I'll stick with Hawk for a while.

Anyway, I will definitely try the DT-70s next and Porterfield R-4s after that. Braking performance is important but I'm really looking for better wear more than anything else. Right now, brake pads are my biggest track day expense.

Hope to be starting TT soon so that may change.

Edit: HR, I strongly recommend a Motive Power Bleeder. Makes bleeding and even flushing a simple, one man job. Seems pricey at first but worth every penny if you track your car more than once a year.

HRMoneyPit

Yeah I've been debating the bleeder for a while. But the cost....meh

Then I don't own a compressor so not point also

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Seriously, Motive Power Bleeder is a life saver for a one man operation trackside....

HRMoneyPit

But you need air don't you?


And what pads do you use? 350

armt350z

iTrader: (6)

+1 The motive is a must. $65 for the freedom to bleed your brakes by yourself is great. No air is required, it comes with a hand pump.

mhoward1

No, you can get the pump container

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mv...FVclgQodzDALfg

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Raybestos ST43/42.

mhoward1

XP10/Xp12 Combo

HRMoneyPit

So the xp20 would be too aggressive?


The link from summit says for kit. That's what our cars use?

N80

Depends on your tires and the track. The XP-12s are fiercely grippy but still manageable running Hankook RS-3s. The folks at Carbotech recommended that I try the XP-20s but I think they would be too grippy for RS-3s and definitely too much for typical street tires.

If you are running street tires I'd start with XP-10s. A lot of people use a less grippy compound on the rears but I'm not sure it is necessary since the 350Z has a lot of front bias anyway. If you are running a track day sort of tire then try the XP-12s but you will need to get a feel for the aggressive initial bite. It is easy to go from initial brake pressure to ABS fairly quickly if not careful.

N80

If you go Carbotech you can orderly directly from them and they will talk to you about your needs as well. Nice folks. Quick shipping.

armt350z

iTrader: (6)

I prefer a weaker rear pad. I was having a lot of rear brake lockup which manifested as early ABS activation both with 200 treadware street tires and semislicks. I run a XP12/ Ferrodo DS2500 setup and found it to be very easy to modulate.

HRMoneyPit

If you order direct is it cheaper? Xp12 sounds like a safe bet for now. My next tires will be 275 RE-71Rs

Either way I'm sure they will be light-years ahead of my HP+ which are a joke. I have 14 inch rotors and my friends Si with stock sized rotors and Type-R calipers with Mu club racers brakes 1000000x harder then my car!


And the 2 pistons on my rear Akebono are bigger then his front Brembos lol that's not right

N80

I have always run a weaker rear pad as well until I got this set of DT-60s which I ran front and back. No problems, even with trail braking. So from now on I'll probably continue to run the same pad front and rear.

N80

No, its the same. The cheapest place I've found to order them is Oakos Automotive but they often have to order the XP-10s and 12s so it takes longer.

What brand and treadwear rating are those? If they are higher than 140 the XP-12s may overwhelm your tires and that is not fun.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

RE71R's are NT01 sticky....treadwear rating doesn't matter for ****.

06platinumG

iTrader: (1)

I run the XP20's on the front and XP8's on the rear with no problem. This is what Carbotech recommended when I talked to them. Then for the street and auto-x I just swap the front to AX6's and leave the rear alone.

I also buy from Oakos for the best price

HRMoneyPit

So we are all agreeing that best bet is to call Carbotech and talk with them? I'd love to not spend 600 on pads twice