17x9.5 wheels all around?
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17x9.5 wheels all around?
i'm considering new wheels for the z, and i'd prefer to stay with 17's if possible. three goals - 1) be able to run at least 275's all around. 295's would be great, but not critical. 2) keep weight down. i'm currently running oem enthusiast wheels (8" rears at all 4 corners) and they are HEAVY - I believe (but have not weighed them myself) that they are about 25-26lbs each. 3) fitment - have to clear my 13" stoptech's up front, and not rub on anything.
the particular wheels i'm looking at are +35 offset. looking at offset calculators i just can't tell if this is going to be a problem. it seems to me the rears will be fine. the fronts however, i have no idea.
is anyone running 9.5" or wider up front with either brembo's or stoptech's and can comment on offset / other concerns? thanks!
ahm
the particular wheels i'm looking at are +35 offset. looking at offset calculators i just can't tell if this is going to be a problem. it seems to me the rears will be fine. the fronts however, i have no idea.
is anyone running 9.5" or wider up front with either brembo's or stoptech's and can comment on offset / other concerns? thanks!
ahm
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I've got SSR Comp H's in 17X9.5 +35 with 275's. The only issue I had was with the front inside of the tire is 3mm away from the upright. I put a 5mm spacer up front for safety. I still have some black scuff marks on my upright but don't have any visible markings on the actual tires.
If you can wait a week or so, I might be selling mine. I'm waiting for the 2007 NASA rules to be released. I may be forced to downsize.
If you can wait a week or so, I might be selling mine. I'm waiting for the 2007 NASA rules to be released. I may be forced to downsize.
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heh heh... those are what i was looking at. they're on sale at tirerack now, so i'm interested, but it would have to be a heck of a deal...
where'd you get the spacers?
ahm
where'd you get the spacers?
ahm
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btw... i ran the st43 front and rear last monday at VIR - fantastic. i had power issues (ie, less than expected) with the turbo, so was only at about 135-140 at the end of the back straight and had to haul it down to 60 or so. this is the first time i haven't had depositing issues there. still fighting the knockback, but i'm getting used to it. thanks for the pad recommendation!
ahm
ahm
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FWIW,
I run 17x9" +35 5zigens with 275/40 RA-1's all around on a G35. The wheels are cheap and relatively light at 17.5 Lbs., and would cost about the same to replace as repairing a forged wheel ($200ish). I too have minor scuff marks on the front upright castings, bit no real sign of wear on the sidewalls. Maybe this could be attributed to pushing it around before the tires are up to temp/pressure on the 1st pass of the day, I can't tell for sure. I also hear an occaisional scuff in the rear when I bottom out at the base of a hill while under power and turning at the same time (NHIS T3). This condition is only present once in a while and may only apply to the G. Otherwise it's all good.
Tim
I run 17x9" +35 5zigens with 275/40 RA-1's all around on a G35. The wheels are cheap and relatively light at 17.5 Lbs., and would cost about the same to replace as repairing a forged wheel ($200ish). I too have minor scuff marks on the front upright castings, bit no real sign of wear on the sidewalls. Maybe this could be attributed to pushing it around before the tires are up to temp/pressure on the 1st pass of the day, I can't tell for sure. I also hear an occaisional scuff in the rear when I bottom out at the base of a hill while under power and turning at the same time (NHIS T3). This condition is only present once in a while and may only apply to the G. Otherwise it's all good.
Tim
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Originally Posted by Tim Mahoney
FWIW,
I run 17x9" +35 5zigens with 275/40 RA-1's all around on a G35. The wheels are cheap and relatively light at 17.5 Lbs., and would cost about the same to replace as repairing a forged wheel ($200ish). I too have minor scuff marks on the front upright castings, bit no real sign of wear on the sidewalls. Maybe this could be attributed to pushing it around before the tires are up to temp/pressure on the 1st pass of the day, I can't tell for sure. I also hear an occaisional scuff in the rear when I bottom out at the base of a hill while under power and turning at the same time (NHIS T3). This condition is only present once in a while and may only apply to the G. Otherwise it's all good.
Tim
I run 17x9" +35 5zigens with 275/40 RA-1's all around on a G35. The wheels are cheap and relatively light at 17.5 Lbs., and would cost about the same to replace as repairing a forged wheel ($200ish). I too have minor scuff marks on the front upright castings, bit no real sign of wear on the sidewalls. Maybe this could be attributed to pushing it around before the tires are up to temp/pressure on the 1st pass of the day, I can't tell for sure. I also hear an occaisional scuff in the rear when I bottom out at the base of a hill while under power and turning at the same time (NHIS T3). This condition is only present once in a while and may only apply to the G. Otherwise it's all good.
Tim
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I used to run the 17x9" FN01R-C's and 275/40's all around. This was a good combo. Since I got the big brakes, I have had to move up to some 18x9.5" Rota's, +30mm, with 285/30 Hoosier's all around. This seems to also be a good combo, but I did have slight rubbing onto the boot of the rear shock, probably due to my -3 degrees rear camber. I didn't have this issue when at -2.5 degrees.
Those SSR Comp H's would be ideal though. I am currently running SSR GT-2 H's, 18x9" and 18x10.5" (these allows me to run 315/30-18 rear tires).
Good luck with your decision.
Those SSR Comp H's would be ideal though. I am currently running SSR GT-2 H's, 18x9" and 18x10.5" (these allows me to run 315/30-18 rear tires).
Good luck with your decision.
Last edited by knight_white99; 11-27-2006 at 04:03 PM.
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the Enkei RPF1's in 17x9 ET35 all around with 275/40 Kumho V710's rubs the front control arms just a tiny little bit, and the guy I got them from had Brembo's and he had to have a spacer on the fronts to clear the calipers
#12
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My MB Comp 17x9 rims with 27 offset and 275/40 all round worked well this year but I'm wanting a wider rim to square up the tires some more to improve turn-in/feedback/grip.
I'm hoping that a 5Zigen FN01R-C's 17x10 all round with a 25 offset would work.
Camber is -2.9 up front and rear.
I'm hoping that a 5Zigen FN01R-C's 17x10 all round with a 25 offset would work.
Camber is -2.9 up front and rear.
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Originally Posted by amolaver
tim - can you define 'cheap' and a source if you don't mind?
thanks for the info, particularly the clearance for the calipers.
ahm
thanks for the info, particularly the clearance for the calipers.
ahm
Also, I have the 332 rotors, not sure about O.D. clearance with the 355's. If those are what you run it might be tight with any 17" wheel.
Last edited by Tim Mahoney; 11-28-2006 at 03:17 AM.
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Originally Posted by FritzMan
My MB Comp 17x9 rims with 27 offset and 275/40 all round worked well this year but I'm wanting a wider rim to square up the tires some more to improve turn-in/feedback/grip.
I'm hoping that a 5Zigen FN01R-C's 17x10 all round with a 25 offset would work.
Camber is -2.9 up front and rear.
I'm hoping that a 5Zigen FN01R-C's 17x10 all round with a 25 offset would work.
Camber is -2.9 up front and rear.
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Originally Posted by Tim Mahoney
I got them with the tires mounted from Edge Racing (www.edgeracing.com). Wheels were about $205 each, tires $178. Total was $1,600 or so mounted, balanced & delivered. Not bad at all.
Also, I have the 332 rotors, not sure about O.D. clearance with the 355's. If those are what you run it might be tight with any 17" wheel.
Also, I have the 332 rotors, not sure about O.D. clearance with the 355's. If those are what you run it might be tight with any 17" wheel.
yes, i'm running the 332mm rotors. i'd love to have the 355's, but am trying hard to stay with 17" wheels. i don't know of any that can fit the 355's.
from that website, i've put together the following list of options in addition to the SSR Comp H that I was originally looking at:
http://www.edgeracing.com/wheels/5zigen/
fn01r-c
17x9 +35 17.5lbs
$205/ea
pro racer Gn
17x9.5 +22 21lbs
$319/ea
http://www.edgeracing.com/wheels/enkei_wheel/
RP03
17x9.5 +38 19.6lbs
$323/ea
RPF1
17x9.5 +38 16.5lbs
$280/ea
The RPF1 is probably the best option, although i'd probably have to run at least a 5mm if not 10mm spacer on the front with it from what i understand. the fn01r-c is much better looking IMO, slightly better offset (5mm will almost definately be enough of a spacer) and because it is 9" vs 9.5" clearance should be less of an issue (virtually guarenteeing 5mm spacer will be sufficient if required at all). it is 1lb heavier, but $75/ea cheaper. and looks much better
the pro racer GN is actually the best fit i think - 17x9.5 +22 would be just about perfect, no spacers required. unfortunately, it is ~4lbs heavier per corner
ahm
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Originally Posted by amolaver
the pro racer GN is actually the best fit i think - 17x9.5 +22 would be just about perfect, no spacers required. unfortunately, it is ~4lbs heavier per corner
ahm
ahm
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Originally Posted by Tim Mahoney
I doubt it, +27 to +35 seems to be the most accepatable range, proceed with caution anywhere outside that range. If anything a higher offset combined with spacers and longer studs might open up your options, but what's the gain? Ideal would be a 9.5" +30 <17 lbs for <$250; it might be out there, good luck!
like you said, a 9.5" +30 would be about perfect. i just don't see anything available like that less than 18lbs.
ahm
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i can not believe this, but thanks to daveh i learned that tirerack's price on the 9.5" dropped from an inexpensive $299/ea to an incredible $179/ea. now that, my friends, is a good deal. get 'em while they're there...
ahm
ahm
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Originally Posted by amolaver
really? it sounds to me like most people's clearance problems are at the spring (or on the inboard side). lowering the offset moves the wheel/tire away from the centerline of the car - should be giving more clearance there, no?
ahm
ahm
But what I think the other poster meant, was that if you are outside the "good" range, then you can fix it with spacers only if your offset is higher (spacer will reduce the effective offset)
But if you have something with too low offset (not sure what kind of problems that can cause) then you are stuck with it.
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Originally Posted by pedroosan
True to my understanding...
But what I think the other poster meant, was that if you are outside the "good" range, then you can fix it with spacers only if your offset is higher (spacer will reduce the effective offset)
But if you have something with too low offset (not sure what kind of problems that can cause) then you are stuck with it.
But what I think the other poster meant, was that if you are outside the "good" range, then you can fix it with spacers only if your offset is higher (spacer will reduce the effective offset)
But if you have something with too low offset (not sure what kind of problems that can cause) then you are stuck with it.
and no, this is not a flame. thank you,
ahm