It's already low enough to make speed bumps and driveways a hassle, so when I do get some springs/shocks, I will look for something close to OEM ride height. The hard part is done- I pressed in longer wheel studs yesterday to accomodate the spacers. I also bought some open ended lug nuts. I can easily swap out spacers at will now.
Tha hard part is waiting for Jan 7 to try out the new tires!

 

Jan 7! I gotta wait until April! Man, I gotta move my sorry-six south!

 

Sorry to revive a 4-month old zombie thread, but I've been wondering about something.

I just put on the SSR Comp-H's (17 x 9.5) with 5mm Eibach spacers, and I'm wondering if I have enough stud length with the stock studs. Nobody here mentioned replacing them with longer ones, so am I okay on track with the stock studs?

daveh or anyone else running this setup?

Thanks.

 

Should be fine. I believe the minimum number of turns required is 6 or 7 full turns on the lug nut.

 

Agreed.

commasense, nice avatar! Way to keep that LeMans Sunset in front of that "P-car" at the top of the esses at The Glen!

 

I run the longer studs that came with my 5mm spacers. If you don't have them, I know nismo and ARP make 10mm longer studs. I've never counted the number of turns I get, but it just seemed like good insurance to run the longer ones. Come to think of it, I might replace mine soon just for regular mantenance.

 

i've got the 17x9.5" comp-h's as well - i broke down and bought the ARP studs. the oem's were a PITA because they were short and the wheels had deep recesses anyway, so getting your fingers in there to start the nuts stunk.

ahm

 

What are the part numbers for the ARP longer studs? I called them and the guy on the phone didn't know and just sent me a catalog.

 

What's involved in removing the stock studs? Aren't they pressed into place?

 

Yes but a tap with a hammer will push them right out. You'll need to unbolt the brake caliper, slide off the rotor and then you have access to the hub where the studs are pressed in. When installing the new studs, I use a standard nut with a spacer (in place of the wheel and lug nut) to press it in.

 

ARP part number 100-7718

Package says they're for '86-'89 Celica GTS. Keep in mind these use a 12x1.5 thread pitch nut. I'm using open ended nuts from advanced autosports available here:

http://www.advanced-autosports.com/p...studs_nuts.htm

I use these on my SM as well which makes it nice since I only carry one type of spare.

ahm

 

^^^ Thanks!

 

And just tighten it in with a big wrench?

 

It doesn't need that much torque to seat the stud. Probably less than 80ft/lb. You could always use a BFH from the back too

 

if you buy the lug nuts from advanced autosport, ask them to include the thick washers they send with their stud kits for the miata. after you pop out the old ones (BFH is the way to go - one moderate strike with a 5 lb sledge pops 'em right out), you push the new ones in and put these two super thick washers on the studs. throw a new nut on the stud, and impact 'em down. my HF cordless impact had enough juice to seat 'em. basically, you just need enough of a spacer so the socket doesn't bottom out before the stud is pulled tight.

highly recommended that after you install them and torque your wheels, go for a spirited 50 mile drive or one practice-pace session, pull the wheels, then retighten the studs.

ahm