OK so I've auto-x before with the military and never an SCCA event. I've been told that I should run in BSP and I'm curious why? What makes one car go to one class vs. another. Also What makes me go to BSP? I've included a list of mods that I believe are relevant to auto-x classing.

Engine:
- AutoTechnic CF Shroud
- JWT PopCharger w/ Heatshield
- MotorDyne 5/16" Spacer w/ ISO Gasket
- UR Underdrive Crank Pulley
- Gates Belts
- APS 2.5" Test Pipes
- TurboXS UTEC
- TurboXS Tuner Wideband w/ Bosch O2 Sensor
- Royal Purple 10W30 Engine Oil
- Royal Puple MaxGear 80W-90 Diff Oil
- Redline Oil MTL/ MT-90 Mixed Tranny Oil

Suspension & Brakes:
- Hotchkis Stage 1 TVS Kit (Hotchkis Lowering Springs, Hotchkis F&R Adjustable Sway Bars, Bushings, and Brackets)
- StopTech Stage 2 OEM Brake Kit* (StopTech Slotted Rotors, Axxis Ulitmates Pads, StopTech Stainless Steel Lines, Motul RBF600 Fluid)
* Might run OEM rotors w/ EBC YellowStuff brake pads.

Wheels/Tires:
- 225/45-18F & 245/45-18R BFG KDW
- OEM Touring 18's

 

Do you have a copy of the rule book? You can get one here: http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/

 

Stock class (BS) implies that the car is totally stock with only a few allowed modifications (i.e. catback exhaust, R-compound tires, etc.)

Beyond that, you drop to Street Prepared (BSP) when you make more extensive modifications, like wider wheels, suspension changes.

After that, you drop to Street Modified.

In your case, things like the non-stock brake system, test pipes and Hotchkis TVS drop you out of stock and into BSP. You might even have to drop to SM2 as I'm not sure the UTEC is allowed in BSP.

You can download a copy of the SCCA rules from here:
http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/File/2007SoloRules.pdf

It explains what each class (Stock, Street Prepared, Street Modified, etc.) allows and disallows.

 

OK... So a stock Nissan 350Z can run BS class. What makes me run in BSP?

Suspention? Intake? Brakes?

 

I didn't read anything on SM2 about EMS.

 

All three.

 

Engine:

BSP- JWT PopCharger w/ Heatshield
BSP- MotorDyne 5/16" Spacer w/ ISO Gasket
BSP- UR Underdrive Crank Pulley
BS- Gates Belts
BSP- APS 2.5" Test Pipes
BSP- TurboXS UTEC
BSP- TurboXS Tuner Wideband w/ Bosch O2 Sensor
BS- Royal Purple 10W30 Engine Oil
BS- Royal Puple MaxGear 80W-90 Diff Oil
BS- Redline Oil MTL/ MT-90 Mixed Tranny Oil

Suspension & Brakes:
BSP- Hotchkis Stage 1 TVS Kit (Hotchkis Lowering Springs, Hotchkis F&R Adjustable Sway Bars, Bushings, and Brackets)
BSP- StopTech Stage 2 OEM Brake Kit* (StopTech Slotted Rotors, Axxis Ulitmates Pads, StopTech Stainless Steel Lines, Motul RBF600 Fluid)
* Might run OEM rotors w/ EBC YellowStuff brake pads.

Wheels/Tires:
BS- 225/45-18F & 245/45-18R BFG KDW
BS- OEM Touring 18's

 

Engine:
BSP- JWT PopCharger w/ Heatshield (Can be removed)
BSP- MotorDyne 5/16" Spacer w/ ISO Gasket (Can't really tell)
BSP- UR Underdrive Crank Pulley (Have to look for)
BS- Gates Belts
BSP- APS 2.5" Test Pipes (Have to look for)
BSP- TurboXS UTEC (Hidden)
BSP- TurboXS Tuner Wideband w/ Bosch O2 Sensor (Hidden)
BS- Royal Purple 10W30 Engine Oil
BS- Royal Puple MaxGear 80W-90 Diff Oil
BS- Redline Oil MTL/ MT-90 Mixed Tranny Oil

Suspension & Brakes:
BSP- Hotchkis Stage 1 TVS Kit (Hotchkis Lowering Springs, Hotchkis F&R Adjustable Sway Bars, Bushings, and Brackets) (Don't know if I could hide)
BSP- StopTech Stage 2 OEM Brake Kit* (StopTech Slotted Rotors, Axxis Ulitmates Pads, StopTech Stainless Steel Lines, Motul RBF600 Fluid) (Can't hide)
* Might run OEM rotors w/ EBC YellowStuff brake pads. (Can't hide the Yellow pad)

Wheels/Tires:
BS- 225/45-18F & 245/45-18R BFG KDW
BS- OEM Touring 18's

 

So you would rather cheat then run in the right class? That is class.

 

No... Just having fun.

 

Why would you want to hide modifications and run in B Stock instead of B Street Prepared? That is the car you have built so be proud of it.

Over the last couple of years I've seen quite a few 350Z cars show up with mods like yours and they had a ball running in BSP against each other. Even though stock class was faster.

 

I run Auto-X to race against myself and the clock.

 

k.. then run the legal class. your car is a BSP car! you are missing half the fun if you only run against yourself. Where's the competitiveness in that? We're guys. it's our innate disposition to be better than the next guy. testosterone? all i know is when i get out there, i could care less what my times are.. as long as i beat the guy next to me.

unfortunately that doesn't happen very often! :P

 

Robert, this is why I have no mods besides R-comps. B stock is pretty limited. I could swap out dampers, run a cat back exhasut, engine grounding kit and swap my air filter for a drop-in K&N unit, and that's about it. I can't even swap out my rotors to a Track model's Brembos, or use wider Track model wheels. It kinda sucks, but it keeps the cost down and the competition fairly even. Except I gave up on auto-x for Time Trials, better bang for the buck and the Z fairs much better in it's class against those damn RX-8's on a track vs a tight auto-x course.
The mods you have aren't even close to stock, and having seen your ride I can tell you there's no way you're going to hide anything past the tech inspection, much less your competitors. BSP is a fun class, you'll have a ball in it.
If you're really lookinginot doing this, I'd say buy a set of R-comps before PMI and use them for auto-x days and at the track, it will be the single best mod you've done -hands down. Toyo Proxes RA-1 (are the new R888 out yet?) or ADVAN AO48 will get you to and from the track just fine and hold up well for multiple track days and auto-x events. There are others, but these are the two I have experiance with. David Muramoto used the newer Falken Azenis 615 on his B14 racer, they aren't true R-comps but had good turn-in and a nice, easy, transition to break away.
Will

 

Thanks Will!!! Talking with the wife might hold off on that kit till I get a good (great) paying job. Might get some Work CR Kai 18's, Koni's and maybe a cat-back instead. I'll take a look at those tires. Any suggestion size for my OEM Touring 18's?

 

As wide as possible Maybe a 265 front and a 295 rear.
Will

 

We'll talk more. Wider = more $$$ Won't be till April/May any how.

 

Yeah, pricing sucks like that, LOL. I have no idea what you can cram on those factory rims, but there are lots of guys on this board actively racing on stockers and they'll tell you what fits and what doesn't.
I hear you about the cost, that's why I'm going to PMI on my all-seasons. I can't justify buying new R-comps just yet. So... I'll be sure to wave you by me on the straight!
Will

 

Is it legal to swap to 2007 wheels? I noticed the 07 enthus. now has 8'' X18 front and 8.5''X18 rear. What is the rule on that? I have a 05 Enthus. Thanks

 

Nope, you have to retain YOUR stock wheels size. Changing sizes bumps you to BSP.