How do you setup your car for BS?
Originally Posted by damnyankee38
I run a Roadster in BS, and was wondering if anybody had tried removing the counterbalance weight from under the front end? Or even the one under the rear?
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From: CT
Originally Posted by tomsn16
Both of our cars had just under 1 degree on the left front and just over 1 degree on the right and that's probably what most have.Prying on the rubber bushed upper link is futile...unless you bend something which is a no no in stock class.
Originally Posted by tmak26b
I dont know what mods you have, but I can tell you a stock Z does not do any slolams. I have 245s all around, but hte car still plows like a big and it has absolutely no turn in capability.
I've got the G load traces showing how well the Z slaloms -- when it has grip (there was very little grip at Topeka, and the G load traces show that).
I've spent a lot of time working on the nut connecting the steering wheel and the seat, and the only time that the Z really has problems is when things are painfully slow (Evolution Phase 1 school, for example). Picking up the pace and the car almost flies through the same maneuver.
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Originally Posted by PDX_Racer
Stock class prep: Eibach FSB, Koni Sports (now Koni DA).
I've got the G load traces showing how well the Z slaloms -- when it has grip (there was very little grip at Topeka, and the G load traces show that).
I've spent a lot of time working on the nut connecting the steering wheel and the seat, and the only time that the Z really has problems is when things are painfully slow (Evolution Phase 1 school, for example). Picking up the pace and the car almost flies through the same maneuver.
I've got the G load traces showing how well the Z slaloms -- when it has grip (there was very little grip at Topeka, and the G load traces show that).
I've spent a lot of time working on the nut connecting the steering wheel and the seat, and the only time that the Z really has problems is when things are painfully slow (Evolution Phase 1 school, for example). Picking up the pace and the car almost flies through the same maneuver.
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I autox today with a set of left over V710 from last year. I don't know if it was the tires, or the full tank of gas. The car drove 100x better as it had a little more grip and just much better over all compare to my Azenis Rt-615. These 710s are definitely on their last leg, but it was just enough for me to squeeze .3 sec to get a win out in BS again. The course also favor the Z too as there were less slow tight turns with a couple nice straights.
Thanks for the advice on the full tank, I will use that from now on. I am sticking with 245 because I drive my car on teh street. I don't know how 275 on 7.5 will feel on the track or on the road, so I will give up a little grip for comfort. Lastly, race tires are the best cure for the plow...
Thanks for the advice on the full tank, I will use that from now on. I am sticking with 245 because I drive my car on teh street. I don't know how 275 on 7.5 will feel on the track or on the road, so I will give up a little grip for comfort. Lastly, race tires are the best cure for the plow...
When I ran 275/35R18 Hoosiers, I didn't have any spacers on the OEM Track rims. No problem with rubbing (well, except with the inside edge of the front fenders on an extremely bumpy course location!)
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Jul 28, 2017 11:47 AM
