I know my MB weapons 17x9 clear +27 clear 14 inch Megan front brakes by about 5mm on the outside and have plenty of clearance ont he spokes. I also know the specs of the Megans are very close to Wilwood and Racing brake. Hopefully in the next few weeks i can test fit a FN01 on the Megan car and see how the line up.

 

^ please do. Im looking into the wilwood setups (havent decided on rotor size yet) and am worried about them fitting under 17x10 fn01rc's.

 

I have had my 13.6" Wilwood kit as I said above with no rebuilds required. I track and race my car 15 days a year. I go through a set of cryo'd rotors and two sets of race pads a year. I run front brake ducts. and this really improves wear on bite during those 102 degree days in Nor Cal. I can not say enough about the service I get when I need pads or rotors from my supplier.

This has been a great brake set and the system has been very durable.

 

I have run a few different sets of 17s over Stoptech and Brembo brake packages without issue. The diameter is enough as long as your offset is right, you should be ok...

Edit: I'm talking about a 332mm kit...

 

I use the same pads for both. The Ferodo 2500's are more of a combo street/track pad. On the street, when cold, they are a bit noisy at times and the cold stopping distances are a little longer. I don't mind them on the street. But on the track, when they warm up, they're downright delightful.

 

Do you have a pic of your Wilwood BBK? I'm looking at these same 13.6" rotors from Wilwood that should clear my 17" rims.

 

See photos of the Wilwood Kit. These are 18' but my track wheels are 17x9 with 275 Nitto 01

 

Forgive me for not searching but I have a few questions regarding brakes on the track for N/A car right now. Plan on S/C in a year or two

1) Does more pots = better?
2) If rims fitment wasn't an issue, bigger rotors = better?

Thanks I appreciated everyone's opinions

~Robert

 

from what i understand, anything over 6 is just a marketing scheme. if you look at how they are made, they are just longer, but the surface area is pretty much the same. also, i don't believe that the number of pots correlate to clamping force of the caliper itself.

bigger rotors are better because they have much better heat dissipation characteristics (meaning they dissipate the heat over a larger area much more effectively than the smaller rotor).

 

thanks for the input. i got a really sweet deal on some 14" stoptech's and the guy included the hawk dtc-70's. what a huge difference from the stock brembo setup with carbotech xp-8's. i will be changing my rear carbotech ax-6's to the hawk dtc-60's to see if they fare better as well.

 

Thanks for answering my questions. I guess there isn't a major difference between 14'4pots vs 14'6pots. I guess I will decide on my purchase later on in the future.

~Robert

 

I would say the same for anything over 4 unless you're running the car in a 12 or 24 hour endurance race.

 

That is partly correct, but there is a bit more to it than that. The "larger" rotor has more mass to act as a heat sink to absorb the temp increases from the friction of the pad against the rotor in braking. The venting of the rotor, and increased air flow from ducting if you can do that, will increase the exchange of heat from the rotor to the air. Thermal management can materially improve your brake performance. Going with a better RBF, stainless lines, and pad choices can also help extract better performance with what you have. And driving technique can be a huge factor. Also, tire and wheel choices will influence the results. A lighter wheel and grippier compound on the tire will make a difference because you have less inertial momentum to slow down/accelerate, and better slowing/stopping with the same application of braking force.

Part of the fun in brake rotor work is determining the performance balance...that if you just go way bigger, you also go way heavier, and weight is your enemy.....ESPECIALLY unsprung weight on the wheels. So there is a very careful tradeoff between how much rotor do you really need to have to slow the car, and performance in other categories. That is influenced by the weight of the car and the braking demands for a particular use or track. Some tracks are notoriously hard on brakes (Cal Speedway with the Roval configuration, for example), while others are not (Reno Fernley, or Sears Point). And, you can indeed 'overbrake' the car....if you have the ability to put the best/stickiest tires of the widest/optimal contact patch on the car with the finest suspension and tuning possible, and you are able to lock up the wheels, and are not overheating them on your HPDE runs....then you probably are not going to be benefitting from putting still bigger brakes on the car!!!!

The Stop Techs are a very fine kit and you should like them very much. They have some very nicely thought out technical articles on braking on their website and it is very much recommended that anyone looking into an upgrade take the time to read a few of them. It is a classy touch on their part to provide the perspective on brakes, to educate us all a bit more on this much misunderstood science.