What kind of camber/ toe specs should i be looking at?? Also i have a set 275 40/18 all around with tein basic coils and spl camber arms and stillen sways. Anyone here run there car at the track if so what kind of specs r u running and i would like to have some initial impressions on your setup like how does your car feel oversteer, understeer, neutral? thanks for the help

 

I'm not trying to bash you, so please don't take my statement that way. Based on your very broad post, you need to do a lot more research and reading and practical experience. Point-being, you can drive your car as-is with many groups with a helmet, a few dollars, some excitement, and a notarized will.

 

There is no real general settings that work well for every Z on every track. What you really need to figure out where you need to be is a pyrometer so you can take tire temps. If I were you though, I would start with probably -2.5 front, -2 rear on the camber and 0 toe all around. Thats probably a good neutral starting point to where you know you aren't going to chew up your tires in one track day. Do see if you can get a pyrometer from someone though. Thats the only real way to tell.

 

With street tires I wouldn't run more than -1.5 camber. With R comound tires I would start at -2.5. I agree with the 0 toe.

 

Don't change a thing. To be honest, you've already changed too much. Go drive the car, learn it for several events and then see if your driving skill warrants a change in the setup. Suspension adjustments may not be helpful, beneficial or even noticeable until your skill increases.

The only adjustment you should be making at this time are tire pressure adjustments.

By your post I'm assuming you have little to no seat time, so I apologize if this isn't correct.

I have many years of karting, auto-x and simracing under my belt and I am driving my Z in completely stock trim except for brake pads. I'd recommend the same. It's the best way to learn the car and then slowly make adjustments. Our cars are extremely capable and a fantastic tool to learn with. Very balanced, enough HP to get you in trouble but not too much to be detrimental to learning. Solid braking, RWD, etc. Oh, and they are pretty to look at.

Buying coilovers before learning what you need out of a coilover setup is likely money down the tubes.

 

i'd say street tires can handle more than -1.5. i like sincity's recommendation or -2.5F/-2R

r-comp's can' probably go -3.

to the OP - do a track day in the fall. streets of willow is a good track to start with.

 

Streets of willow is a great track to learn and start from. Z already corners very well so you do not need to change anything. If you are willing to spend $$ i would say get SS brake lines with DOT4 brake fluids along with slotted rotors and Project U B-Force pads. i was at Street of Willow on Sat. june 21st and temp. was up near 120F. BTW you might want to spend some money on maintenance such as tranny fluid, Diff. Fluid, engine oil, Radiator flush, etc......

 

I am going to stay out of this converasation mostly since I have already stated my opinions in other such thread. I do how ever want to recommend staying way from slotted and cross drilled rotors for track use. They actually do more harm than good.

The original slotted rotors were made for when pads use to gas-out and build a buffer between the pad and rotor. No Modern pad does that anymore. What is worse is 99% of the slotted rotors on the market are cut, and not caste, which means microfractions in the material. THese will develop into true cracks quickly in heavy use. The slots also inhibit cooling instead of help, air does not significantly move through the rotor, and you have less mass for heat absorbtion and dispersion. These are also the same reasons I recommend against cross-drilled rotors.

 

I do recomend a slotted rotor for the fact that they will cut a glazed face off a pad if it overheats.

 

That pretty much echos my thoughts

(and here's a picture to match yours hehe)

 

I agree with the above statements – at this point just change your pads and replace the fluids…

I wanna play too…

 

Centric blanks. Pretty cheap and work with no complaints. By the way, white is by far my favorite color on the Z.

 

Yeah, like the others said, stick with what you've got. Get some fresh, dot4 fluid (ATE Super Blue or Typ200 is a good track fluid, that is not too expensive, and will last for a while), maybe some SS lines, and good pads. In my opinion brakes are a safety mod rather than a performance mod. Everything else, stick with stock until you are a better driver.

 

I agree with everyone that said to leave the upgrades alone and focus on track days and maintaince of the car. Once you have got down your skills and are comfortable with your car at it's limits. Then you can start making changes to the car. That way you really notice what the change really did.

If you are looking for some track days PM me and ill get into more detail. My favorite group to go with is All Time Racing because they have a small group so you get a lot of track time, and their instructors are the best.

BTW if you see a black Z pass you don't hesitate to say hello.

 

man what is it with the PPW guys and track days

 

White should absorb less heat - it makes sense to have your track car painted white.

For me, it's BMW's racing color and this is the first non-BMW fun car I've purchased in quite some time. :/ I also think it's the best looking color for this car.

All the 997 Cup Cars come white, too, don't they?

 

what??.............everyone else is posting their white cars on the track....

 

Unless I'm sorely mistaken (maybe Mr. Nicholson will weight on this if he sees it), a glazed pad, once it's glazed, can't really be "un-glazed" without some heavy abrasives (not recommended) or a re-bedding-in of the pads. About the only redeeming quality of a slotted rotor is that it provides some protection against debris getting stuck between your pads and rotors by "sweeping" away the debris. If slotted rotors "cut away" pad glazing, it would eat up your pads too quick to be worth the price.

I also have a theory that slots and or holes provide an "edge" that will become hot spots on the rotors and might contribute to stress cracks.

 

Really

 

Brad, Matt, and I had a lengthy discussion about that. See above.