Anyone think there is an advantage to using MOTUL 660 over 600 given the cost increase and the marginal increase in dry boiling point? Anyone using 660?

600

Dry 593
Wet 420

660

Dry 617
Wet 400

 

my mates usin it in his sti, he say its better than the mobil 1 he used to use... and hes not the type of guy who'd cut corners when its comes to his car, if u know what i mean...

 

The only issue I have with it is that it is almost twice the cost for the 660 for a marginal increase in performance.

 

how much are they for in america ?

 

mobil 1 makes brake fluid?



jet, so wet bp is lower with the 660 ? 400 vs. 420? if so what is the advantage?

 

The dry boiling point is 20 degrees higher. 617 vs 593.

 

I haven't had any issues with using the motul RBF 600 fluid...I'd think changing fluids twice as often w/ the 600 would yield better protection than paying 2X more for the 660.

(I don't think it's the difference in boiling point when the oil is new, it's as it gets moisture and dirt in it...I'd be interested in seeing how the boiling point degrades vs. contamination)

 

I would think that the 600 would still be better, given it's higher wet boiling point. That's the number that will be in effect once the fluid starts absorbing moisture from the air, rather than the dry, fresh-from-the factory dry boiling point.

And given Motul's reputation for absorbing moisture from the atmosphere more quickly than other brake fluids, that's probably more significant here than it otherwise might be.

Don't get me wrong - I think Motul is a great brake fluid (I use it in my race car), but, as with all products, we need to be aware of it's limits.

 

As a point of reference, I decided to start use ATE Super Blue/Typ 200, which has lower wet and dry boiling points than both of those, but is appreciably less expensive (1/4 the cost, approximately)

About a month ago, I took my G to Miller MotorSports Park (Gary was there, as well), and was getting up to the mid 140's on the front straight before braking hard. MMP is hard on brakes the entire course, and I have a HEAVY G35 Twin Turbo (3900 lbs with me in it), so you know I was abusing the brakes.

No problems whatsoever with boiling the fluid even though it was ATE rather than motul or or Mobil 1.

 

No. I always look at the wet boiling point (worst case) when choosing brake fluid. Castrol SRF is still the best, IMHO.

 

I use ATE Super Blue as well with no complaints.

 

I talked to the motul guys at SEMA this year about it, basically its overkill unless your running a spec class where you cannot upgrade your brakes much. It would be perfect if you were racing an 03 Z with stock brakes.

 

We use the 660 in the NoHotWire Racing Nissans. But we flush the fluid after each race...

-Rich

 

Castrol SRF is the best no doubt. But it's just too expensive.

Maybe I should just use Super Blue and becasue it's cheaper I can afford to change it more often.

What is the total fluid capacity of the entire brake system? Anyone? Anyone?

 

I think it is a little less than 1 liter (1 bottle of ATE) or 2 .5 liter bottles of Motul. How do I know? Just by doing flushes with different color fluids?

 

Skip Superblue, IMO its garbage for anything but street cars. I think the Motul 600 is at that perfect "middle" price point where it's cheap enough you don't feel bad doing a flush/bleed quite often but not a "cheap" product that you don't feel good about using. SRF is arguably better but (also IMO) not worth the difference, I'd rather change the Motul more often.

Morris - trust me you'll know when the bad stuff is gone and the good stuff is coming out Or just measure it ...

 

It was Jetpilot asking how much the system holds. I have flushed it many times, and your right, it is not hard to tell when the old stuff is good and the good stuff is ciming through.

Sorry, to hear you don't like ATE. I have used it several times and had no problems. It is all we run in my friends Z06 and it does just fine for him. The only thing I really don't like about it is the 1 liter bottle.

 

My friend had a discussion with some of the Corvette racers and they use Castrol SRF for a full year of racing with no problems. Fill once, bleed and you're good to go. The price is a lot higher but you will have to bleed your brakes a lot less. I usually go through as much Superblue/ATE200 as it would cost to buy 2 bottles of SRF.

 

Interesting about the SRF.

How do you drain all the fluid out of the system? Is there a procedure?

 

just open the bleeder valves at the calipers. u can open all four of them at once if u wanted and let gravity pull all the fluid out. just never let your reservoir tank go below the L line or u will have some air to deal with