Installing Long wheel studs in the rear
How hard is it to install Long wheel studs in the rear?
I have some ARP bolts from SLP Parts...I did the front, now want to do the rear.
I thought I saw a "how to" for that, but can't find it now. I think you just had to remove the rear brake shoes/rotor/Caliper, and you could do it...
Has anybody done that?
JE
I have some ARP bolts from SLP Parts...I did the front, now want to do the rear.
I thought I saw a "how to" for that, but can't find it now. I think you just had to remove the rear brake shoes/rotor/Caliper, and you could do it...
Has anybody done that?
JE
This is not complicated. May require some well placed strikes with a lead
hammer to remove studs. You are correct about needing to remove the shoes/
rotor/caliper to free the rear of the studs... GL
hammer to remove studs. You are correct about needing to remove the shoes/
rotor/caliper to free the rear of the studs... GL
I was waiting for one of these questions to come up.
I also, have the ARP's and have had the fun experience of trying to install them in the rear hubs.
Basically, you have to take the axles out in order to remove the rear hubs.
Due to the e-brake location, and how freakin long the ARP studs are, you have to take it all apart. Trust me, I tried everything, including trying to drill a hole and I still had to pull the axles.
On a plus side it's not that hard of a job:
Knockout old studs.
Remove caliper, rotor.
Loosen axle nut.
Remove the six bolts on the stub axles. ( You DO NOT have to remove or take apart the e-brake!)
Then the axle comes out very easily.
Now you are able to get to the 4 bolts holding the hubs in place.
Just remove them and place the new studs in.
Pull them in, and then put everything back!
I think the axle nut torque's to 120 ft lb, and the stub axle bolts to 50-60 ft lb.
I think that's it. I wasted more time trying to NOT remove the axles. Of course I had to in the end so take my advice.
I also, have the ARP's and have had the fun experience of trying to install them in the rear hubs.
Basically, you have to take the axles out in order to remove the rear hubs.
Due to the e-brake location, and how freakin long the ARP studs are, you have to take it all apart. Trust me, I tried everything, including trying to drill a hole and I still had to pull the axles.
On a plus side it's not that hard of a job:
Knockout old studs.
Remove caliper, rotor.
Loosen axle nut.
Remove the six bolts on the stub axles. ( You DO NOT have to remove or take apart the e-brake!)
Then the axle comes out very easily.
Now you are able to get to the 4 bolts holding the hubs in place.
Just remove them and place the new studs in.
Pull them in, and then put everything back!
I think the axle nut torque's to 120 ft lb, and the stub axle bolts to 50-60 ft lb.
I think that's it. I wasted more time trying to NOT remove the axles. Of course I had to in the end so take my advice.
Well. I did the front and rear ARP Lugs today....wow that is a lot of work..but worth it!!!!!!!!!
I took your advice, removed the Axles...worked fine..thnx for the advice..also did new rotors and pads, flushed the fluid...Now on to Road Atlanta next weekend for a nice PCA HPDE event
I took your advice, removed the Axles...worked fine..thnx for the advice..also did new rotors and pads, flushed the fluid...Now on to Road Atlanta next weekend for a nice PCA HPDE event
I was waiting for one of these questions to come up.
I also, have the ARP's and have had the fun experience of trying to install them in the rear hubs.
Basically, you have to take the axles out in order to remove the rear hubs.
Due to the e-brake location, and how freakin long the ARP studs are, you have to take it all apart. Trust me, I tried everything, including trying to drill a hole and I still had to pull the axles.
On a plus side it's not that hard of a job:
Knockout old studs.
Remove caliper, rotor.
Loosen axle nut.
Remove the six bolts on the stub axles. ( You DO NOT have to remove or take apart the e-brake!)
Then the axle comes out very easily.
Now you are able to get to the 4 bolts holding the hubs in place.
Just remove them and place the new studs in.
Pull them in, and then put everything back!
I think the axle nut torque's to 120 ft lb, and the stub axle bolts to 50-60 ft lb.
I think that's it. I wasted more time trying to NOT remove the axles. Of course I had to in the end so take my advice.
I also, have the ARP's and have had the fun experience of trying to install them in the rear hubs.
Basically, you have to take the axles out in order to remove the rear hubs.
Due to the e-brake location, and how freakin long the ARP studs are, you have to take it all apart. Trust me, I tried everything, including trying to drill a hole and I still had to pull the axles.
On a plus side it's not that hard of a job:
Knockout old studs.
Remove caliper, rotor.
Loosen axle nut.
Remove the six bolts on the stub axles. ( You DO NOT have to remove or take apart the e-brake!)
Then the axle comes out very easily.
Now you are able to get to the 4 bolts holding the hubs in place.
Just remove them and place the new studs in.
Pull them in, and then put everything back!
I think the axle nut torque's to 120 ft lb, and the stub axle bolts to 50-60 ft lb.
I think that's it. I wasted more time trying to NOT remove the axles. Of course I had to in the end so take my advice.

Last edited by laze1; Oct 18, 2008 at 04:41 PM.
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