STU2 = 350Z street tire class at last!
The Rx-8 belonged in STU.
Most sentiment I heard at the National Town Hall in Topeka was for reducing the number of classes. I don't see the SEB adding another class to Nationals for a while.
I also would like an alternative to R-compounds for competition so I'll be interested in how it shakes out.
Congratulations on the win.
Most sentiment I heard at the National Town Hall in Topeka was for reducing the number of classes. I don't see the SEB adding another class to Nationals for a while.
I also would like an alternative to R-compounds for competition so I'll be interested in how it shakes out.
Congratulations on the win.
IMHO, the 8 is outgunned in STU.
You may not need that much more static negative camber, since the Z doesn't have as much body roll as most other cars.

I haven't had a chance to pyrometer-check yet, but I am definately getting some outside wear on the fronts, so I am thinking probably a bit more would be good. But definately less than my E36 Bimmer's 4 deg negative!
The Z doesn't squat like most cars under hard acceleration, so it's hard to believe that it is so quick, but it makes for brutal corner entrances following acceleration zones, since you're probably carrying more speed than you realize.
Maybe you've guessed that I'm not a huge fan of static negative camber if its not truly required to overcome body roll and sidewall flex. My avatar on SCCAForums is a good shot of my stock Z in a 1.3+ G turn -- there's not a lot of body roll there (actually less than 2 degrees when measured - atan(2/72) = 1.5911 degrees -- it just looks like its more). So, in order to counteract body roll, I need a static negative camber of less than 1.6 degrees -- and that's before I take into account caster-induced negative camber. You might find that you're really only talking about an addition 0.1-0.2 degrees of static negative camber to get a more "even" wear pattern, but you might sacrifice some high-speed cornering ability to get a better wear pattern on low-speed corners.
I do have a pyrometer, and my fronts have fairly even temps across the face even though the outside shoulders get more rounded, so I guess that I'm pretty close on setup. The inside edges of the rears, on the other hand...
It might be coming from mild understeer on corner entry.
The Z doesn't squat like most cars under hard acceleration, so it's hard to believe that it is so quick, but it makes for brutal corner entrances following acceleration zones, since you're probably carrying more speed than you realize.
Maybe you've guessed that I'm not a huge fan of static negative camber if its not truly required to overcome body roll and sidewall flex. My avatar on SCCAForums is a good shot of my stock Z in a 1.3+ G turn -- there's not a lot of body roll there (actually less than 2 degrees when measured - atan(2/72) = 1.5911 degrees -- it just looks like its more). So, in order to counteract body roll, I need a static negative camber of less than 1.6 degrees -- and that's before I take into account caster-induced negative camber. You might find that you're really only talking about an addition 0.1-0.2 degrees of static negative camber to get a more "even" wear pattern, but you might sacrifice some high-speed cornering ability to get a better wear pattern on low-speed corners.
I do have a pyrometer, and my fronts have fairly even temps across the face even though the outside shoulders get more rounded, so I guess that I'm pretty close on setup. The inside edges of the rears, on the other hand...
The Z doesn't squat like most cars under hard acceleration, so it's hard to believe that it is so quick, but it makes for brutal corner entrances following acceleration zones, since you're probably carrying more speed than you realize.
Maybe you've guessed that I'm not a huge fan of static negative camber if its not truly required to overcome body roll and sidewall flex. My avatar on SCCAForums is a good shot of my stock Z in a 1.3+ G turn -- there's not a lot of body roll there (actually less than 2 degrees when measured - atan(2/72) = 1.5911 degrees -- it just looks like its more). So, in order to counteract body roll, I need a static negative camber of less than 1.6 degrees -- and that's before I take into account caster-induced negative camber. You might find that you're really only talking about an addition 0.1-0.2 degrees of static negative camber to get a more "even" wear pattern, but you might sacrifice some high-speed cornering ability to get a better wear pattern on low-speed corners.
I do have a pyrometer, and my fronts have fairly even temps across the face even though the outside shoulders get more rounded, so I guess that I'm pretty close on setup. The inside edges of the rears, on the other hand...

Right now, I am exploring damper options, it will (of course) continue to be a work in progress for quite awhile. Once again, thanks for the input. Now if I could only teach it to stop knocking all those cones down...


By fastech at 2008-11-07
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Good for him!
