I have had my 03 350z for 2 years now and with 275 F & R on light volk wheels. Running akebono replacement pads and thought it was OK.

We I just picked up a 95 M3 as my DD, and WOW it stops like a mad man. Brembo drilled rotors and some sqealing pads that I know are aggressive. I crushed it at the autox with crappy 360 treadwear 235's F&R.

Can I get steel braided lines and some good pads for my stock brake setup, and do fine for autox and circuit cross? Or should I invest in some 370z front calipers and rotors? I need pads and rotors soon so maybe I should upgrade. The Z is def much worse in the braking department and it's 8 years newer!!

I run better autox times in the Z due to torque and wide tires but the M3 allows me to brake so much later. I wish the Z could do that so I can start going for FTD!

Lastly I am going to supercharge the Z and dont care about classing, just want to be fast and fun. I want to run Rcomps. should I get some for the stock wheels and run 265's? Or buy new 18" RPF1's and run 295/305? is it that noticable or will I be FTDable on rcomps on stock wheels?

 

Check the Brake pad DB sticky at the top. It has some great info and reviews in it. There are much better pads than OEM spec and they will make a world of difference on stickier tires.

Some points to remember though.
1) Stopping power is in the tires not the brakes
2) being able to repeat peak performance is in the braking system.
3) there are several aspects of brake feel - Initial bite, Overall grip, and resistance to fade.

In an AutoX enviroment you don't have to worry about fade as much, but it is still there. I would try a set of XP12/10's or Hawk HT10's and see how they feel on your OEM setup before spending big money on an upgraded system.

Also, solid blanks tend to work just as well if not better than slotted or drilled rotors and they crack a whole lot less.

 

I run street pads for our autox series. Quick initial bite for transitions and they do not fade. I run aggressive pads for open lapping, but have never had the need for autox. Just my $.02.

 

I think I will try a pad swap. My concern is Carbotec said their pads would eat my volk wheels.

I need an aggressive pad that is safe for flat black volks, hard initial bite and no fade. I already have ATE super blue fluid but stainless lines help out too.

I researched the 370z brakes and they dont seem worth the upgrade. I will go stoptech front oem rear if need be.

 

whaaaatttt the crap are you talking about ?


When Carbotech unleashed the XP10™ to the general public, and it was an instant success, gathering multiple regional, divisional, and national championships. The XP10™ is a very high initial bite friction material, with a coefficient of friction and rotor friendliness unmatched in the industry. Fade resistance is in excess of 1650°F. Due to the high level of friction and bite, this material is recommended for cars weighing around 2,000lbs or more, not including formula cars and cars with brake bias bars weighing less than 2,000lbs. This is the preferred compound for the front of Spec Miata racers, SSC,SSB, T3, SRF, ITS, ITE, H1,H2, H3, H4, 944 Cup, ST, GS, Factory Five Cobra’s and many more Grand-Am/ALMS/SCCA/NASA classes. XP10™ is also ideal for advanced/instructor level HPDE drivers. XP10™ still maintains the highly praised release and excellent modulation, rotor friendliness, and 100% non-corrosive dust that have made all Carbotech compounds so successful. XP10™ is not recommended as a daily-driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.

 

OK well there rep on the phone said he didnt recommend them on my volk wheels. Now I dont know which pad he was talking about. Apparently it was a more aggressive pad than the xp10.

but thanks for your info!

 

Don't forget motul 600 is a must!

 

listen , if you are thinking about having fun with the z, it will get thrashed. so make up your mind - do you want to have an "experience of a lifetime" or do you want a "garage queen "

i run carbotech exclusively for 2 years now and i can not see any problems with the dust...

 

motul is berry noice ! hi-five !

 

The problem is when the dust is left on for a period of time AND exposed to moisture (high humidity, rain, etc.) The dust is not corrosive until it is reacted with moisture. Wash the wheels quickly after an event, and they will be fine, however, I HIGHLY recommend a dedicated set of track wheels if you plan to track relatively often. You won't want to go up on that berm with those high dollar Volks!