There is no "better" between staggered and non stagger. It is all about how the car is setup, and how the driver interacts with it. Personal preference.

 

exactly "back on topic"

what you wrote I feel is exactly what the OP is asking...

yes all the other replies are pertinent, but it seems as if the OP's original question is "what bushings can be done to aid in steering responsiveness"

NOT oversteer, understeer, big tires, small tires, etc, etc.....those are racing/tracking and Z related changes to improve handling YES.....but not what op is asking "entirely"

Ataru074,
Im guessing by full solid you mean you have the complete SPL front set up?? meaning translink inner and translink shock mount spl bushings?

-J

 

Agreed. My initial reply was to his comment regarding a staggered setup and neutral handling.

 

I don't have the lower shock mount, only the upper.
I have the 350evo upper arms and the spl translink inner.
I'll put the compression rod later.. but the difference is already outstanding.
I also have the spl rear diff bushings (and they help too, but I'd like to do the whole rear subframe one day).

now the steering is just "mental"... no lag, no nothing.. you touch it and it does happen... period.
I love it

 

btw, I'm running a staggered setup, 255/40R17 F and 275/40R17 R...
but I think I have spring rates quite different from the "usual" having 11kg/mm in the front, 12kg/mm rear, front sway on medium hard and rear on medium.

so my car in this way TURNS.... compared to my boss E46 M3 running 275s all around it's night and day... he's an instructor and he was quite surprised (and I guess a little scared) on how was turning into the corners with that nice feeling of the nose pointing almost inside the corner... it's a little tricky on the exit when on throttle steps out a little more and you feel the external rear tire "deform"...
I also softened the differential to 80% lock using motul PA90 and some redline friction modifier (half bottle).

 

my 2 cents..

Just did whiteline LCA bushings and OEM infiniti updated Compression rob bushings.. already run a basic sway bar, Stance LX coilovers etc.. these bushings made a HUUUUGE diffrence.

I would shy away from the solid stuff. Well, i mean i literally did.. i went the above and am much happier.. feels like a new car, better even. Those things deteriorate slowly.. u never know how bad they are until they get fixed.

 

Great info from all, thank you very much.

I'm already looking into the LCA+Diff bushings, hopefully I'll be able to find a shop to instal them here in NYC area as most shops are always busy.

To add; I recently installed Whiteline Adjustable HS/Solid Endlinks for my Aftermarket sways, and the grip/feeling has been very noticable on public streets (They are very loud unfortunately... looking forward to testing out on the track). Running on staggered setup as well; 255/40R17 F and 275/40R17 R.

 

Thanks alot for the replies. Keep them coming. I see exactly what I need to replace first.

 

Ahem .... I am going to try and post a (dumb) question that I always had. Does anyone make top adjustable camber plate for 350Z? I have always seen Subaru's and other kinds of cars with a top adjustable camber plate where you can just jack up the car and adjust it with in a matter of few minutes.

I currently have SPL V2 on my car and the wheels have to come off to make the adjustment. The reason why I said dumb in my post is because it could be a simple thing such as the way the Z is built that the camber plate on top is not possible. But can someone please explain to me more on this?

thanks

 

its a design thing...you could do it but it would have to be all custom.

 

do some research on front suspension designs. 350z's dont have struts.

 

Ok thanks. I'll read up more on the designs

 

Truth. Even if you did manage to make some, their adjustment would be entirely worthless for camber. It would have no effect.

 

If you're wanting front a-arms that are easy to change spec on the fly, look into the Kinetix ones.

http://www.kinetixracing.com/fronta-...g352dr4dr.aspx

All you gotta do to change the camber is
-jack up front of the car so a-arm is visible/accessible
-loosen and take off the locking/pinch nut
-spin the ball joint (from my experience, each spin is about .3º ~ .4º) then reverse steps

 

That's pretty neat. I wonder how reliable is the reading over multiple usages? At the time when I was looking for camber kits I was told SPL was the most effective because of the shim design.

I didn't get a chance to read up on the suspension details yet

 

I found that replacing the outer tie rods and having the bump steer set made a big difference in steering feel. After so many changes to the suspension it's tough sometimes to remember how each modification changed the handling of the car, but this one certainly stands out in my mind.

 

Camber adjustment is related to the geometry of the upper arm. In our case, slightly shortening or lengthening the upper arm changes camber. The Z has an upper control arm and a separate damper.

On the Subaru, and other Macpherson strut cars, the shock serves a dual purpose as the damper AND upper arm. Camber plates for these designs are altering the geometry of the arm.

 

Thank you, that was a very simple and straight forward answer right ON POINT.

 

First of all, excuse my ignorance on suspension dynamics. I'm a relatively novice enthusiast who attends a few track day sessions every season.

I've been coming across a variety of camber settings on this forum and other RWD forums such as mx-5 forums, s2000 forums etc. Regarding the Z specifically I'm confused as to whether run more camber in the front than the rear. I feel as if the z understeers in stock form, however this was cured a bit when I went to a neutral 265 star spec tire setup all around. My current camber specs are -1.8 in the front and -2.8 in the rear. For track days I have attempted -3.5 in the rear and -2.5 in the front which seemed pretty decent but felt as if I did not have enough front tire grip.

I have a friend who tracks his z regularly and he swears by a -3.0+ degree camber in the front, and a front bias camber spec. I know everyone will have their own quirks and personal preferences, but wondering which direction to head towards.

So what kind of camber specs are you guys running? Toe and caster if possible as well. It would be great if I could get some ballpark figures and then proceed to fine tune the specs to my liking after that.

Cheers,
Dylan

 

What tires do you run? That will have a massive effect on what camber you should run. R-compounds like tons of negative camber.
I am a fan of 3.0 up front as well. Combined with 1/8 toe out, the car turns in VERY well.
In the rear, I have 2.8 degrees of camber and 1/8 toe in.