Z car AutoX and Roadcourse Modification Guide
#1
350Z-holic
Thread Starter
Z car AutoX and Roadcourse Modification Guide
This thread serves the purpose as an index of the various AutoX and Roadcourse modification databases and guides. It will be updated as new items are added.
track pad database
Track Tire Database
Competition Springs and shocks database
Sways and strut bars for competition use
SA helmet guide
Safety equipment
Apparel
Cooling components
Engine modifications, and other non-competition references can be found in the related sub forums. Lets limit this guide to AutoX, and Road course related items.
track pad database
Track Tire Database
Competition Springs and shocks database
Sways and strut bars for competition use
SA helmet guide
Safety equipment
Apparel
Cooling components
Engine modifications, and other non-competition references can be found in the related sub forums. Lets limit this guide to AutoX, and Road course related items.
Last edited by mhoward1; 02-03-2010 at 11:33 AM.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Rapid City, SD Ellsworth AFB
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Better Steering response
I'm looking to ordering some SPL spherical bearings soon for my suspension. Which bearings are most important for improved steering response? I called them directly and they told me to order the front lower arm bushings and front compression bushings. Would these give me more steering response for upcoming track events? Also if it matters I'm ordering the rear diff bushing as well.
I posted this here to have more feedback from people who actually track their car that may have experience with spl.
I posted this here to have more feedback from people who actually track their car that may have experience with spl.
#6
350Z-holic
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
** REFERENCE THE FSM **
ALSO take note of the TWO Lower control arms - #11 compression rod and #13 transverse link!
okay here goes:
I agree with the compression arm bushing for sure, that thing is the reason why you cant get left to right side of the front to match. Especially caster.
SPL - Compression arm bushing
Thread here:https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-bushings.html
The straight lower control arm - aka the translink
Is known to tear and through the alignment out of whack at the inner section where the translink attaches to the steel K member:
Thread here: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ight=translink
SPL's translink replacement bushings are nice, but whiteline also makes some as well.
Solid rear diff bushings:
You can not go wrong with those... if you have an LSD you will quickly notice the difference so much more easily, but either way you will.
See my updated post #12 on them here,
thread here(install):
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...mp-either.html
The one im thinking your forgetting to answer your question is CASTER.
and SPL sells Front upper control arms that adjust caster, caster will improve your turn in as well.
Thread here(install):
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...hims-made.html
CASTER:
Positive caster provides the directional stability in your racecar. Too much positive caster will make the steering effort difficult. Power steering will allow you to run more positive caster. Negative caster requires less steering effort but can cause the car to wander down the straightaway.
Thread HERE:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293656-post27.html
-J
ALSO take note of the TWO Lower control arms - #11 compression rod and #13 transverse link!
okay here goes:
I agree with the compression arm bushing for sure, that thing is the reason why you cant get left to right side of the front to match. Especially caster.
SPL - Compression arm bushing
Thread here:https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-bushings.html
The straight lower control arm - aka the translink
Is known to tear and through the alignment out of whack at the inner section where the translink attaches to the steel K member:
Thread here: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ight=translink
SPL's translink replacement bushings are nice, but whiteline also makes some as well.
Solid rear diff bushings:
You can not go wrong with those... if you have an LSD you will quickly notice the difference so much more easily, but either way you will.
See my updated post #12 on them here,
thread here(install):
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...mp-either.html
The one im thinking your forgetting to answer your question is CASTER.
and SPL sells Front upper control arms that adjust caster, caster will improve your turn in as well.
Thread here(install):
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...hims-made.html
CASTER:
Positive caster provides the directional stability in your racecar. Too much positive caster will make the steering effort difficult. Power steering will allow you to run more positive caster. Negative caster requires less steering effort but can cause the car to wander down the straightaway.
Thread HERE:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293656-post27.html
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 08-05-2010 at 09:32 AM.
#7
350Z-holic
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
I will be picking up my Compression arm bushings from SPL next week in person in Austin.
Cant wait to get them installed.
-J
Cant wait to get them installed.
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 08-06-2010 at 06:37 AM.
Trending Topics
#9
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
Best mods IMO for steering responce (for a non professional built dedicated race car) Swaybars, Camber , and wide front tires.
The following users liked this post:
SponGer (03-12-2020)
#11
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
#14
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
exactly - and "feel" is, by its nature, completely subjective, revolving around several factors, not the least of which is the skill level of the driver in the first place
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Rapid City, SD Ellsworth AFB
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's funny because I've read and seen different. Can you explain more. I've searched on this forum a bit about nuetral steering and have read a few books and both say the same.
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Rapid City, SD Ellsworth AFB
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's another thing. I don't have nearly as much skill as some people here posses. But I know how I want my car setup because to me it would feel better than what it was stock. That's really all I care about is moving forward and not moving backwards.
#17
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
In that same corner in a neutral handling car any weight transfer off one end of the car will cause that end to lose grip. The only driver input should be less steering to widen the arc.
Most people confuse a neutral handling car with an oversteering car.
When tuning a road race car, then general starting point is neutral in low to medium speed corners (30 to 90mph) and slightly understeering in fast corners (over 90 mph).
Last edited by betamotorsports; 08-05-2010 at 02:27 PM.
#18
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Rapid City, SD Ellsworth AFB
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well... thousands of books have been written about this and they are probably the best resource. IMHO, a neutral handing car is one that, in steady state cornering, follows the line without any steering or throttle change at the very limit of tire adhesion (slip angle).
In that same corner in a neutral handling car any weight transfer off one end of the car will cause that end to lose grip. The only driver input should be less steering to widen the arc.
Most people confuse a neutral handling car with an oversteering car.
When tuning a road race car, then general starting point is neutral in low to medium speed corners (30 to 90mph) and slightly understeering in fast corners (over 90 mph).
In that same corner in a neutral handling car any weight transfer off one end of the car will cause that end to lose grip. The only driver input should be less steering to widen the arc.
Most people confuse a neutral handling car with an oversteering car.
When tuning a road race car, then general starting point is neutral in low to medium speed corners (30 to 90mph) and slightly understeering in fast corners (over 90 mph).
#19
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
As Adam posted above, its all up to driver feel. I felt my base '06 350Z understeered everywhere unless you booted it with the throttle. Putting 285/30-18 Kumho 710s all around on it balanced it better. Adding the Nissan Comp adjustable anti-roll bars helped even more. Again, its what you're used to.
#20
Registered User
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As Adam posted above, its all up to driver feel. I felt my base '06 350Z understeered everywhere unless you booted it with the throttle. Putting 285/30-18 Kumho 710s all around on it balanced it better. Adding the Nissan Comp adjustable anti-roll bars helped even more. Again, its what you're used to.
beta you have to admit that the first time someone drives a neutral balanced car usually scare the $hit out of him and ends up driving way slower than a mild to low understeering car...
if you don't put enough track mileage and your personal skills allow you to overcome the fear of spinning that isn't the best car... if he goes to the track only 3 or 3 times per year I think a mild understeer just helps.
btw, back in topic... I have the front end "full solid" except the compression arms and the steering feeling is just awesome.. no matter which kind of tires I have.