OK, so I am running some NASA stuff this year in TTB, and all the really fast guys at Road Atlanta this last weekend were running big aero. I'm thinking there must be something to this. I have a few questions for those of you who have knowledge on such matters.

I have just enough points left to add a big picnic table-style wing on the back, or a splitter or something up front (with a point left over in that case). My instinct is that adding downforce to one end without doing it to the other will create an imbalance, but I saw many cars out there doing exactly that and turning some very fast laps. So, Z peeps, anyone tried just a big wing on the back without upgrading the front? And what did you think about the changes it brought? Was the car easier or harder to drive? Did it net you faster lap times? What other changes, if any, did you have to make to the car with the additional downforce?

My other question regards the wings themselves- an admittedly quick perusal seems to show the APR GTC-300 to be a favorite choice, but the damn thing is $1500! I might could swing it if I stopped paying alimony for a few months, or started selling counterfeit Sharif-autographed Forged Performance man thongs on eBay again, but otherwise, that's a little steep for my budget. Anyone have any slightly more economical suggestions?

Thanks in advance for any helpful answers or amusingly smartass retorts.

 

The G-Stream Comp800 is a very good wine and with the adjustable struts you can tune the rear downforce to reduce any aero understeer. I've worked with this wing on an E36 BMW and Porsche 944T. Very good quality and easy to adjust.

http://www.g-stream.com/C800.html

 

I know Buddy club makes a slightly more cost effective wing but I think APR is the way to go. I've seen them at $1200.

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/me...y_Code=GTC-300

 

BTW, What spec are you running at right? It may help others in making suggestions on what side would give the best bang for your buck.

 

I have added an APR rear wing and a front bumper with a small lip. It has reduced mt lap times by two seconds and growing. It eliminated the loose rear above 90 so high speed turns are very comfortable. I did have to rebalcance my shock settings. Mostly softer. I have evolved this over the past 1 1/2 years.

 

just put more decals and a NOS badge,.... that should do the trick!!!

 

Thou i do agree the rear wing helps with the down force, im sure you can help that situation by making a rear diffuser/undertray..........if you notice the oem exhaust has an air diffuser mounted off the front facing section of it.........i say run a full REAR under tray and eliminate the floating pocket of air below where the spare is.

would take some fab work but ya..........




-J

 

 

I really wonder how effective a bumper tuck is for that? I'm sure its not nearly as good as a proper diffuser but......

 

in not saying bumper tuck........i am talking full rear diffuser/undertray.....from rear subframe diff mount location back to rear bumper..

-J

 

I know exactly what your saying but.......

 

Interesting suggestions, thanks guys. But if I want to stay in TTB (and I do), I pretty much have to pickl ONE... so, wonder which would give me the most ROI?

Any other suggestions for sub-$1k wings? Or supplier, or plans on how to build, said diffuser? Dammit Jim, I'm a driver, not an engineer...

 

Shocks should be stiffer with Aero....

 

Forgive me jumping on this thread but I've wondered about this for a while. Is the factory lip at all functional? Does it disrupt the flow over the back to reduce lift at speed?

Edit: Sorry, I was unclear. I'm talking about the rear spoiler/lip on the rear hatch, not any front lip.

 

No. Aero is a load on the sprung mass so the primary control for that is springs. Shocks control the un-sprung mass and the springs.

 

You could try the eBay APR knock off,

 

Well... is it necessarily crap? I'm sure the quality isn't nearly as nice, but functionally, for the price, I wonder...

 

Just be ready to do a lot a fab work. More than likely need some additional bracing and more than likely have more drag and less down force (No CFD work). But like you say it could be worth the price, at $190 it could be a starting point to mod out.

 

I have no urge to throw good money after bad, or to bolt ricer crap onto my car. But, as a budget-conscious racer, a similar part at 1/10th the cost (or less) does have some appeal, if it had any merit... just thinking out loud here.

 

Fluid dynamics.