They are no longer made.

Molds have been mothballed.

Nissan Motorsports my have some sets left, but doubt it. You might want to try them.

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead. I did my own ducting recently. Here are a few pics. I reused the holes in the bumper for the little plastic pieces that used to go in the corners of the front grill to mount the brackets. I also had to remove the washer fluid reservoir so I could get the tubing routed to the wheel on the right side of the car.

 

Please post how you hooked up to the spindle/caliper.

 

Interesting way of doing it, mine was similar.

 

That's what I'd like to see too.

 

It's by no means the best setup. I didn't do anything fancy with the connection to the spindle/caliper. I can't remember the thickness of flat bar I used (I used two different thicknesses), but it was aluminum and about 1 inch wide. I used a thinner flat bar and rolled it into an ellipse (still fairly round but I tried) with a diameter slightly larger than the tubing. Then I slid it inside the tubing and used it like a spring to hold it in place. I had a large washer and bolt with a locknut to keep it from sliding off the tubing and used it to mount to the L bracket I made. The L bracket was made with a little thicker flat bar and mounted to the lower Stoptech caliper bolt. That's it.

There wasn't much open space to get inside the rotor with the Stoptechs. I might have to go back and redesign it at some point, but I wanted to try this first. If the rotors stop getting the micro cracks, and I get extended pad and rotor life, then I'm not changing anything.

I didn't have any issues with it after my first event with them on. I need to get some new rotors to see if they are working, but I'll wait till these are dead since Stoptech charges a sh!tload for replacement rings.

 

I bought a set of these CF brake cooling kits from Trakhaus years ago. I sidelined my track days by having another kid. In any case, they are sitting on a shelf in my garage, and have never been installed. I don't think I'll ever get around to install them, let alone squeeze in another track day for the next few years. They were $300. If anyone is interested in buying the set, please PM me.

 

You have a pm. Thanks!!

 

I doubt you can keep then cool enought to stop micro cracks.

 

You very well may be right. The only point of reference I have is my buddy that tracked his C6 Z06. He did basically the same thing and it greatly helped his rotor life. It didn't stop the micro cracks, but it helped.

All I really want is to be able to wear down the rotor to its min thickness before it cracks in half. I got about 1/2 through the last set of rotors before all the micro cracks connected and I had complete rotor failure.

What are you thinking needs to be done? Seal it off so all the air gets inside the center of the rotor? (BTW, I'm not trying to sound like a *****, I really wanna know)

BTW, I don't even know for sure if there is even any air making it to the rotor.

 

Something I whipped up...

 

^^^
Would you be willing to make a set without the fan? Im looking for something similar to the trakhaus carbon ones that focuses air into the rotors center...but I cant justify $300 for theirs. I don't have the time/skills to make something and would gladly pay for such a product if it didn't carry an inflated price tag.

 

That has a brushless motor and it's an EDF unit. That will push a crap ton of air.

 

As of now are there any options that mount to the spindle with just a simple flange?

 

Not that I know of, but I'm going to just rivet http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...uctflanges.php onto the heat shield.

 

Thats def. an option. The PO removed the front dust shields on mine, it obviously wouldn't be hard to put them back and go that route, but I just learned of the trackhaus ones and love the design...just not the price. I wonder how one could replicate them, maybe with a different material; tin or aluminum perhaps.

 

what cfm do they flow? much of a power draw?

 

Hi Sideways,
I could make a pair with the size inlet you want for $150.
I'll give you the drill, tap, allen and buttonheads too.
(but the fans are the way to go)
The aluminum taps very easily, just a little light oil on the tools.

 

I haven't measured the flow, I can program from 1 to 27.5A(each!)
I think 10A is the sweet spot, good volume, lower noise level, reasonable wiring and draw.
Here's an old test I did, be sure to tun down the sound. You'll see the turning duct get pushed off as the revs come up to the full 27A speed:

I had a message the video didn't exist when I tested it, go to You Tube and search:
prototype RooDuct fan duct test

 

It would be killer to have the variable amp fan hooked up to a temp sensor, gets faster as the rotor get hot.