f-350z

Hi every one

I noticed overheat issue while tracking my Z, which leaded me not to complete more than 3 laps. And my only mod was a greddy exhaust.

I wonder which cooling setup will be better over the other for a track/street HR Z. I got the GTM engine oil cooler and Stillen tranny oil cooler, but none of them is installed yet.

my concern is whether to get the GTM 14" dual fans+thermo controller, or thicker radiator? Which one will be more effective?

Thanks

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Do all the things you listed...

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

The radiator will help more than the fans. Fans are not need at speed.

Ruthless18x

iTrader: (59)

I'm currently running the following and my temps have been great during auto-x, even in Arizona heat.

- Koyo R Core Radiator
- Nismo Thermo
- Trust Oil Cooler

I'm going to put a pan spacer on this winter for the extra quart and so I can run a gauge. I was also thinking about doing the pathfinder mod but the install looks like a *****.

f-350z

hmmm thats what i thought as well

but im wandering if my front bumper will allow enough air to hit the radiator (similar to VeilSide V3 front bumper) although im gonna remove the front number plate while hitting any action event.

my other concern is, as im running the OEM brombo brakes, so i thought of starting with an brake air duct before upgrading to a BBK. whats your thoughts on this guys, does worth the hassle? is there any other cooling setup for the brakes?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

make sure the bottem of you bumper is sealed like OEM to make sure the air get to the radiator and not bypass it. Also the brake ducts, yes, and you can always run them if you feel the need to upgrade to a BBK.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

<60s autox is way different than a 20-30 minute hot lapping session, even in AZ heat. Keep on having fun with the Z.

betamotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure the car is overheating? Do you have a real temp gauge on the car? If not, borrow an infrared temp gun and check the radiator temps.

At speed you need less frontal area for cooling. On a pure track 350Z you can reduce the radiator opening by 50% and still have plenty of airflow for cooling. This also helps with top speed.

Your Brembo brakes are fine track use. Adding brake cooling ducts to the front help.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

3 laps, hmm...are you sure you don't have a more common issue, like air in the line. Granted, cooling mods will be helpful if you track your car, but that just seems kinda of quick (provided this isn't a lap as long as VIR long course). It would be good to pinpoint what's hot, coolant or oil (or both), but considering you have the oil cooler I would say buy the radiator and install the cooler when time and funds permit.

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

If your Z is overheating after just a few laps - then you have a real problem not an issue of insufficient cooling that a oil/PS/trans cooler will solve. As Zazz points out, maybe you just have air in the cooling system, or a fan not working or stuck thermostat or clogged radiator.

Either something like that or you are running the full course in second gear at redline.

ADMAN

iTrader: (9)

You shouldn't be "overheating" that quickly.

Maybe your powersteering fluid.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Remember he has an HR, a lot different setup than our DE cars. HR motors are know to run high oil temps and need a cooler. An Oil cooler and proper radiator he should be set for the track.

Just make sure you saddle mount the two coolers for best results.

NismoZ_840

iTrader: (3)

The stock HR does overheat the oil on the track (saw 280+ regulary), that would be my first mod. I'm running a 25 row Mocal wth 10AN fittings. It doesn't go much above 240 even in 100F ambient. I haven't had an issue on coolant temps and can't comment on diff temps although I've never had any symptoms either. I use a Cobb Accessport to monitor oil and coolant temps.

As to brake ducts, an easy mod is put NACA ducts in the bottom tray and run a short tube length pointed at the calipers/rotor hub. I'll post some pix shortly. Also, there are some carbon brake spindles that just came available so you can run directly to the rotors if its worth $300 to you.


NACA ducts installed top view


NACA ducts bottom view...


Hi Temp ducting from NACA ducts, zip tied to anti-roll bar


Outside view of ducting

350Zdj

iTrader: (3)

Ey F we should start working on the brake airduct project

I'd vote for thicker rad + Nismo thermostat.

After all your mods are installed, do a test run and see if you still need the shrouds or not. But I don't think you'll be needing them if you ask me especially that u got fins on your hood.

Check also if you have bubbles in your cooling system like DaveZ mentioned.

f-350z

great and very informative replies are there ... thx guys

now i want to mention one thing i should have mention it before (i know i might get banned for that )

when i said overheat issue, i meant that the Temp needle was in the middle between C and H. and the weather that day was very hot.. im talking about 43 C and very high humidity percentage.

actually i did refluch my radiator after that track day for the same reason of having bubbles/air inside the radiator, but didnt track it afterwords.

with regards to the brake ducts, im very interested to know more info about whatever is made for that purpose. as i notice that i was losing the brake after few laps. actually brakes were acting like a G**. i dunno if changing the OEM oil lines to oil steel braided lines will make any difference

plz guys share your experiences

roger22

iTrader: (1)

Halfway between C and H is OK...I run 3/4 to H with no problems...This is with Oil Cooler and Stillen radiator...

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Something is not right... whether its your gauge or cooling system. Over Normal is bad.... even a little bit.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Mine runs at 1/2 normally, but depending on the track it sees 3/4 durring a timed session that i'm pushing the car 100%

bkleeman

Pushing an HR to redline during track sessions on a warm summer day will easily overheat it. I've seen 240+ water temps within 2-3 laps. Race laps run in a draft will see those temps within a lap and a half. Short shifting will bring it back down into the 220 range though. Those last few hundred revs make a big difference.

We've had some custom configured Griffin radiators built specifically for the HR that seem to do the trick. They're rather pricey though but no fans or other stuff is required.

The new Nissan CF brake duct kit does work too. Quite well actually. I would not EVER run a Z on the track at the limit without some ducting in place. Ask me how I know

Brian

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

I stand corrected, I was thinking along the lines of normal driving.