Throw Away Your Ichiba Studs
Throw Away Your Ichiba Studs
Caution:
I had one stud break while torquing the bolts. Two broke on track. 4 more were found cracked after I replaced them all.
They all broke where the rotor hat meets the hub. Thats with 8 track days and an autocross here and there. Just sharing my lessons learned.
I bought ARP and I consider the matter closed.
-G
I had one stud break while torquing the bolts. Two broke on track. 4 more were found cracked after I replaced them all.
They all broke where the rotor hat meets the hub. Thats with 8 track days and an autocross here and there. Just sharing my lessons learned.
I bought ARP and I consider the matter closed.
-G
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G,
1. How exactly were they installed? pressed in from the head side of the lug? or thread pulled on with a nut and washers??
2. Do you have hub centric rings on the cars lip that match the inner diameter to whatever wheel you have? to ensure center?
3. if you don't have item 2 - then when installing the wheel are you supporting the weight of the wheel and centering up the wheel with two opposite studs....by hand first then doing the rest, ensuring the wheel is centered???
4. Any shops impact them on lately?
- A product like this with many many others that have great experience with them don't deserve a "throw them away" thread.....maybe a "figure out what happened" thread.........give us details???
- One drive around a course, down the street, etc not doing item 3 or having the right item 2 will cause failures like you describe....ive seen it..
-J
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by rich2342 
Luckily you weren't on the track at the time..
This is why spacers scare me.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>your jumping to conclusions.....if you know what your doing, youll be fine. most don't....I discuss proper install techniques in the Spacers FYI sticky thread.
Either way, the spacer came off whether it was installed improperly or defect. I prefer to cut out the middle man and don't run the risk is my personal take, but to each his own.
Luckily you weren't on the track at the time..
This is why spacers scare me.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>your jumping to conclusions.....if you know what your doing, youll be fine. most don't....I discuss proper install techniques in the Spacers FYI sticky thread.
Either way, the spacer came off whether it was installed improperly or defect. I prefer to cut out the middle man and don't run the risk is my personal take, but to each his own.
mine have been on since 2007 - torqued lugs on them countless times, always removed with an impact gun fwiw
could be a fluke, could be an install issue, awfully hard to say. No bolt, or stud though is infallible...even ARP, NISMO, etc - they all can break
could be a fluke, could be an install issue, awfully hard to say. No bolt, or stud though is infallible...even ARP, NISMO, etc - they all can break
Also big question to the OP, do you have an aftermarket BBK on your car? Yes it matters, my wilwood rotors had a more precise hole size than stock rotors. The shoulder on ther Ichiba studs are slightly longer than stock and my rotor didn't sit perfectly and i broke a couple of studs till i figured it out.
That failure rate is way too high. Barring input on the OP, I suspect over-torquing the nuts, then taking it to the track where excessive temperatures caused the stud to go past it's strain capacity. DO NOT over-torque the nuts, especially if tracking the car!
Although I considered the matter closed (i.e. didn't subscribe to my own thread I see there have been enough comments on here to warrent some reply.
So here it goes.
Yes, I was on the track when two broke. Happened at turn 10 at TWS. Oddly the bolts made it to the hot pit then fell out when i turned into the paddock.
Sorry tossed them all at time of install. Just imangine a stud broken flush with the brake rotor.
PST installed, I have full confidence in their abilities. My stock studs lasted me over 20 HPDE events plus scores of autocrossing.
1) Uhh... Don't know didn't watch
2) 5mm spacer leaves just a touch of the hub poking out.
3) I put all the bolts on when the car is up and typically give them a little jolt with the wrench before dropping the car and tightening. Though I can't guarentee I do that all the time.
4) If an impact wrench has been used recently it was to replace one broken hub I had a few months back.
Yes, spacers, 5mm, all corners.
Stoptech 6&4Pot
Torque wrench is set for 80lbs. Though I admit I don't untorque and retorque for every track day just check the torque in the morning.
So here it goes.
Luckily you weren't on the track at the time..
Photos of broken studs appreciated.
Sounds like user error (or machine shop, whoever installed them) to me... just saying.
1. How exactly were they installed? pressed in from the head side of the lug? or thread pulled on with a nut and washers??
2. Do you have hub centric rings on the cars lip that match the inner diameter to whatever wheel you have? to ensure center?
3. if you don't have item 2 - then when installing the wheel are you supporting the weight of the wheel and centering up the wheel with two opposite studs....by hand first then doing the rest, ensuring the wheel is centered???
4. Any shops impact them on lately?
2. Do you have hub centric rings on the cars lip that match the inner diameter to whatever wheel you have? to ensure center?
3. if you don't have item 2 - then when installing the wheel are you supporting the weight of the wheel and centering up the wheel with two opposite studs....by hand first then doing the rest, ensuring the wheel is centered???
4. Any shops impact them on lately?
2) 5mm spacer leaves just a touch of the hub poking out.
3) I put all the bolts on when the car is up and typically give them a little jolt with the wrench before dropping the car and tightening. Though I can't guarentee I do that all the time.
4) If an impact wrench has been used recently it was to replace one broken hub I had a few months back.
also, op never mentions spacers, he just has longer studs...
Also big question to the OP, do you have an aftermarket BBK on your car?
That failure rate is way too high. Barring input on the OP, I suspect over-torquing the nuts, then taking it to the track where excessive temperatures caused the stud to go past it's strain capacity. DO NOT over-torque the nuts, especially if tracking the car!
Look at the shoulders of of the studs when they are pressed thru the hub, they stick out slightly into the hub surface. Mine would not let my Wilwood rotors sit flush with the hub, and i had to slightly clearance the holes on the rotor. I had a problem when i first installed my BBk with Ichiba studs, now i run different studs.
Look at the shoulders of of the studs when they are pressed thru the hub, they stick out slightly into the hub surface. Mine would not let my Wilwood rotors sit flush with the hub, and i had to slightly clearance the holes on the rotor. I had a problem when i first installed my BBk with Ichiba studs, now i run different studs.
thats good info to know! what a crappy situation...hard to diagnose i would guess too until you see it...
-J