Damping Adjustments?
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Damping Adjustments?
I searched around on the forums about adjusting damping and kind of got an idea about it, but it was from people that just wanted comfortability on the street.
I installed some Zeal Function X's on my car over the winter and have never had a car that had adjustable damping on it before. These have 30 way adjustability. I was wondering where I should start out and what to look for on track to accuratley make adjustments. I don't know too much about this type of stuff and would like some advice. Should the rears be softer? Should the fronts be harder? You get the idea. I know a lot of it is vehicle specific, but I just need to know what to look/feel for on track. Also, what type of set ups do you guys run? I have my corner weights of the car if that helps at all.
Thanks in advance for your help.
I installed some Zeal Function X's on my car over the winter and have never had a car that had adjustable damping on it before. These have 30 way adjustability. I was wondering where I should start out and what to look for on track to accuratley make adjustments. I don't know too much about this type of stuff and would like some advice. Should the rears be softer? Should the fronts be harder? You get the idea. I know a lot of it is vehicle specific, but I just need to know what to look/feel for on track. Also, what type of set ups do you guys run? I have my corner weights of the car if that helps at all.
Thanks in advance for your help.
I need to know too, well its kinda simple (suspension tuning is a black art) to get it feeling good, but now i'm dealing with 2 way adjustable coilovers. Can't wait to try them out in 2 weeks.
start full stiff, back it down accordingly per your own feel, tire temps, turn in response, etc
there really is no right or wrong, it's a very individual thing...the most important thing on the track is the car needs to be predictable to you
there really is no right or wrong, it's a very individual thing...the most important thing on the track is the car needs to be predictable to you
Lap times and tire temps are your quantitative measures. I prefer to start full soft because many drivers confuse firm with fast. Compression damping should be as soft as you can run without the car falling over on corner entry or exit (assuming correct springing). Rebound damping should be enough to get the car to react well and put power down with packing the springs down.
DEFINITELY NOT FULL HARD!!!
you will be in the bushes pretty quick with full hard F/R...ask me how I know
Full soft or 1/4 or 1/2 way hard MAX!!!! to start...I will see if I can find the Koni adjustment guide. It sez something like start 1/2 firm F/R, then adjust one end Herder untill the car starts to "skate", then back off x-turns, then do the other end...
you will be in the bushes pretty quick with full hard F/R...ask me how I know
Full soft or 1/4 or 1/2 way hard MAX!!!! to start...I will see if I can find the Koni adjustment guide. It sez something like start 1/2 firm F/R, then adjust one end Herder untill the car starts to "skate", then back off x-turns, then do the other end...
Double adjustable
http://www.koniracing.com/rrtuningguide.cfm
Suggested Adjustment Procedure for Road Course Use
Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control
Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.
Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.
1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings.
2. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.
NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn.
3. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces.
4. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set.
NOTE: The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.
Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.
It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.
1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.
2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.
EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.
http://www.koniracing.com/rrtuningguide.cfm
Suggested Adjustment Procedure for Road Course Use
Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control
Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.
Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.
1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings.
2. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.
NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn.
3. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces.
4. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set.
NOTE: The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.
Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.
It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.
1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.
2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.
EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.
Last edited by laze1; Apr 1, 2011 at 01:52 PM.
Single adjustable :
Suggested Adjustment Procedure for Auto Cross Use
Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control
Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.
Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.
1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.
NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set. NOTE:Â The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.
Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.
It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.
1. 1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.
2. 2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.
EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.
Suggested Adjustment Procedure for Auto Cross Use
Adjusting the Compression (Bump) Damping Control
Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.
Depending on the vehicle, the ideal bump setting can occur at any point within the adjustment range. This setting will be reached when "side-hop" or "walking" in a bumpy turn is minimal and the ride is not uncomfortably harsh. At any point other than this ideal setting, the "side-hopping" condition will be more pronounced and the ride may be too harsh.
1. Set all four dampers on minimum bump and minimum rebound settings. Drive one or two laps to get the feel of the car.
NOTE: When driving the car during the bump adjustment phase, disregard body lean or roll and concentrate solely on how the car feels over bumps. Also, try to notice if the car "walks" or "side-hops" on a rough turn. Increase bump adjustment clockwise 3 clicks on all four dampers. Drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until a point is reached where the car starts to feel hard over bumpy surfaces. Back off the bump adjustment two clicks. The bump control is now set. NOTE:Â The back off point will likely be reached sooner on one end of the vehicle than the other. If this occurs, keep increasing the bump on the soft end until it too feels too hard. Then back that side off two clicks. The bump control is now set.
Adjusting the Rebound Damping Control
Once you have found what you feel to be the best bump setting on all four wheels, you are now ready to proceed with adjusting the rebound damping. The rebound damping controls the transitional roll (lean) as when entering a turn. It does not limit the total amount of roll; it does limit how fast this total roll angle is achieved. How much the vehicle actually leans is determined by other things such as spring rate, sway bars, roll center heights, etc.
It should be noted that too much rebound damping on either end of the vehicle will cause an initial loss of lateral acceleration (cornering power) at that end which will cause the vehicle to oversteer or understeer excessively when entering a turn. Too much rebound control in relation to spring rate will cause a condition known as "jacking down." This is a condition where, after hitting a bump and compressing the spring, the damper does not allow the spring to return to a neutral position before the next bump is encountered. This repeats with each subsequent bump until the car is actually lowered onto the bump stops. Contact with the bump stops causes a drastic increase in roll stiffness. If this condition occurs on the front, the car will understeer; if it occurs on the rear, the car will oversteer.
1. 1. With the rebound set on full soft and the bump control set from your testing, drive the car one or two laps, paying attention to how the car rolls when entering a turn.
2. 2. Increase rebound damping three sweeps or 3/4 of a turn on all four dampers and drive the car one or two laps. Repeat this step until the car enters the turns smoothly (no drastic attitude changes) and without leaning excessively. Any increase in the rebound stiffness beyond this point is unnecessary and may in fact be detrimental.
EXCEPTION: It may be desirable to have a car that assumes an oversteering or understeering attitude when entering a turn. This preference, of course, will vary from one driver to another depending on the individual driving style.
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The other issue I've sen with a full firm starting point is the driver coming in and saying, "Its better then what we had. I guess we're done with the testing." And that's the end of any input you'll get from that driver.
Its better to send the driver out on full soft so they come back in saying, "The car handles like crap, you need to adjust things." Now a conversation can start about what the car is doing and how it can be improved.
Its better to send the driver out on full soft so they come back in saying, "The car handles like crap, you need to adjust things." Now a conversation can start about what the car is doing and how it can be improved.
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From: Columbus Ohio
Thanks for all the input. That was very helpful. Friday is a practice day and hopefully I can get it dialed in by the end of the day. I'm gonna start soft then and see how the car feels and go from there. It sounds like a lot of trial and error to get that sweet spot, but rewarding once you find it.
So, swaybar setting? I noticed the damper setting changes under/over steer. Technically how and when should the sway settings be tuned in.
Also this info should be stickied in motorsports.
Also this info should be stickied in motorsports.
Kinda the same advice, start out "soft" and go progressively more "firm" until you get what you want.
Caution: Don't try to tune all the various adjustments at the same time (Tire pressures, shocks, ASB, ride height, etc)
Put everything in a "soft" mode, and adjust one element at a time...then call that "baseline"...then do fime tuning from there...
Recommendation: take good notes as you go along...like the the BEEG BOYZ do...it really helps.
Caution: Don't try to tune all the various adjustments at the same time (Tire pressures, shocks, ASB, ride height, etc)
Put everything in a "soft" mode, and adjust one element at a time...then call that "baseline"...then do fime tuning from there...
Recommendation: take good notes as you go along...like the the BEEG BOYZ do...it really helps.
Of course for the HPDE guys it tough to click off 2 and 3 steps of adjustment (out of 30 Reb. & Comp. each) in a few sessions. Its even made worse with the FTD events (fastest time of the day) and time attacks where you get one or two sessions to dial in and the rest go on the books.
Personally I've tried the Koni method, and felt it caused too much wasted time on the track. Not to say it doesn't work, it just takes way too long to get to a decent baseline setup. I found the best thing for me was to learn the dynamics of the car/shocks and then find a soft but relative close ball park baseline that can get me where I need to be within few adjustment periods.
True, full stiff can fool people in to thinking its working better than it really is, however if you can recognize whats going on can be the quickest. Understanding the dynamics will go a long way to finding what works for you. I think Dennis Grant's website was truly eye-opening in this respect, http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html, has a lot of great info for those who really care.
Can't remember where but one thing that stood out in some internet suspension blog was something like this... Remember, to get grip you want to keep as much of the tire on the ground as much as possible, but by cranking in more and more rebound you are effectively helping to keeping the tire off the ground and thus losing grip.
Personally I've tried the Koni method, and felt it caused too much wasted time on the track. Not to say it doesn't work, it just takes way too long to get to a decent baseline setup. I found the best thing for me was to learn the dynamics of the car/shocks and then find a soft but relative close ball park baseline that can get me where I need to be within few adjustment periods.
True, full stiff can fool people in to thinking its working better than it really is, however if you can recognize whats going on can be the quickest. Understanding the dynamics will go a long way to finding what works for you. I think Dennis Grant's website was truly eye-opening in this respect, http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html, has a lot of great info for those who really care.
Can't remember where but one thing that stood out in some internet suspension blog was something like this... Remember, to get grip you want to keep as much of the tire on the ground as much as possible, but by cranking in more and more rebound you are effectively helping to keeping the tire off the ground and thus losing grip.
Last edited by Zazz93; Apr 3, 2011 at 09:03 PM.
Interested to hear the other points of view though.
You'll find, often times, that what works for one guy doesn't always translate to another. The last 2 times I had my Z at a track day, I didn't touch the sways or the shocks from my normal everyday street settings. I spent the entire time adjusting my brake zones and figuring out where to turn in and how wide to let the car go out, because the Z was so much heavier than the car I had driven the previous events, the whole day was a learning experience. Knowing what your car can and can't do, and not going for broke from your first lap out is key to safely finding how far you can push things. There are so many variables at play, not the least of which are the type of track (distance) and how aggressive/timid the driver is in the first place. Most time, the driver puts the car where it ends up, the car doesn't get there on it's own. Start full stiff, start full soft, it really won't matter IMHO. You may not even find a sweet spot on that day, depends on all the other variables at play. You have a lot to pay attention to.
Adjustments for auto-x are a far different thing from adjustment for a track.
The idea is to try to get it dialed in to something you're comfortable with as quickly as possible so you can actually enjoy your day, and concentrate on your lines. You're presumably not racing for points and not racing for money, it's a day to enjoy yourself, have fun, and hopefully keep the car shiny side up as you explore it's limits. You are not going to have nearly enough time at an event to fully adjust everything, let alone record, and re-test all these adjustments.
So many guys get so caught up playing with shock/sway adjusting rather than focusing on their lines, or braking zones. Having friends there to take the tire temps is very very helpful, as is taking notes. Not only notes for what times you're running, but how the car feels to you overall. Walk the course, watch what others do and how their cars are behaving, and take notes (at least mental) as to these details as well.
Adjustments for auto-x are a far different thing from adjustment for a track.
The idea is to try to get it dialed in to something you're comfortable with as quickly as possible so you can actually enjoy your day, and concentrate on your lines. You're presumably not racing for points and not racing for money, it's a day to enjoy yourself, have fun, and hopefully keep the car shiny side up as you explore it's limits. You are not going to have nearly enough time at an event to fully adjust everything, let alone record, and re-test all these adjustments.
So many guys get so caught up playing with shock/sway adjusting rather than focusing on their lines, or braking zones. Having friends there to take the tire temps is very very helpful, as is taking notes. Not only notes for what times you're running, but how the car feels to you overall. Walk the course, watch what others do and how their cars are behaving, and take notes (at least mental) as to these details as well.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Apr 3, 2011 at 02:33 PM.
AGREED 
You'll find, often times, that what works for one guy doesn't always translate to another. The last 2 times I had my Z at a track day, I didn't touch the sways or the shocks from my normal everyday street settings. I spent the entire time adjusting my brake zones and figuring out where to turn in and how wide to let the car go out, because the Z was so much heavier than the car I had driven the previous events, the whole day was a learning experience. Knowing what your car can and can't do, and not going for broke from your first lap out is key to safely finding how far you can push things. There are so many variables at play, not the least of which are the type of track (distance) and how aggressive/timid the driver is in the first place. Most time, the driver puts the car where it ends up, the car doesn't get there on it's own. Start full stiff, start full soft, it really won't matter IMHO. You may not even find a sweet spot on that day, depends on all the other variables at play. You have a lot to pay attention to.
Adjustments for auto-x are a far different thing from adjustment for a track.
The idea is to try to get it dialed in to something you're comfortable with as quickly as possible so you can actually enjoy your day, and concentrate on your lines. You're presumably not racing for points and not racing for money, it's a day to enjoy yourself, have fun, and hopefully keep the car shiny side up as you explore it's limits. You are not going to have nearly enough time at an event to fully adjust everything, let alone record, and re-test all these adjustments.
So many guys get so caught up playing with shock/sway adjusting rather than focusing on their lines, or braking zones. Having friends there to take the tire temps is very very helpful, as is taking notes. Not only notes for what times you're running, but how the car feels to you overall. Walk the course, watch what others do and how their cars are behaving, and take notes (at least mental) as to these details as well.
Adjustments for auto-x are a far different thing from adjustment for a track.
The idea is to try to get it dialed in to something you're comfortable with as quickly as possible so you can actually enjoy your day, and concentrate on your lines. You're presumably not racing for points and not racing for money, it's a day to enjoy yourself, have fun, and hopefully keep the car shiny side up as you explore it's limits. You are not going to have nearly enough time at an event to fully adjust everything, let alone record, and re-test all these adjustments.
So many guys get so caught up playing with shock/sway adjusting rather than focusing on their lines, or braking zones. Having friends there to take the tire temps is very very helpful, as is taking notes. Not only notes for what times you're running, but how the car feels to you overall. Walk the course, watch what others do and how their cars are behaving, and take notes (at least mental) as to these details as well.
Z1 said it in a polite way, I'll give it to you straight:
If you can't frickin' drive, stop messing with the car! There are buttloads of people like this on the Internet and they are extremely easy to spot at the track.
If you can't drive the car to its 10/10ths limit consistently and can tell the difference between what you are doing to the car and what the car is doing on its own, then spending a lot of time on suspension adjustment is wasting time that should be better spent learning how to drive. Doing suspension and shock tuning when the driver can only turn laps at 8/10ths of the cars ability (regardless of how well setup the car is) is a waste of time for everyone involved.
Here's an example from the last SCCA event I was at.
New SCCA Licensed racer bought last year's class winning car (in fact, it won the class the last three years in a row). Before even turning a lap in practice the new owner started messing with camber, sway bar, and shock settings. He went out on track and turned laps 10 seconds slower then any other car in the class. He came back in and started adjusting things again. The car's previous owner came by and read the new owner the riot act while helping put everything back to where it was. The new owner went out and qualified 8 seconds behind everyone else in the class and proceeded to change everything else again. The new owner finished the race 2 laps down and blames the car.
If you can't frickin' drive, stop messing with the car! There are buttloads of people like this on the Internet and they are extremely easy to spot at the track.
If you can't drive the car to its 10/10ths limit consistently and can tell the difference between what you are doing to the car and what the car is doing on its own, then spending a lot of time on suspension adjustment is wasting time that should be better spent learning how to drive. Doing suspension and shock tuning when the driver can only turn laps at 8/10ths of the cars ability (regardless of how well setup the car is) is a waste of time for everyone involved.
Here's an example from the last SCCA event I was at.
New SCCA Licensed racer bought last year's class winning car (in fact, it won the class the last three years in a row). Before even turning a lap in practice the new owner started messing with camber, sway bar, and shock settings. He went out on track and turned laps 10 seconds slower then any other car in the class. He came back in and started adjusting things again. The car's previous owner came by and read the new owner the riot act while helping put everything back to where it was. The new owner went out and qualified 8 seconds behind everyone else in the class and proceeded to change everything else again. The new owner finished the race 2 laps down and blames the car.
Last edited by betamotorsports; Apr 4, 2011 at 07:24 AM.
I worked my way up from soft to stiff.
However; according to Koni Racing as Laze1 posted.
Bump damping controls the unsprung weight of the vehicle (wheels, axles, etc.). It controls the upward movement of the suspension such as hitting a bump in the track. It should not be used to control the downward movement of the vehicle when it encounters dips. Also, it should not be used to control roll or bottoming.
So heres a few images from those laps on Sunday.
You can see the car still has alot of roll, I dont notice it so much in the car thanks to the racing seat but now that I see this pictures it made me think.
I have adjustable sway bars. Currently set to Medium Front and Soft Rear.
Would moving the front to Hard front, and Medium rear, help my case?
The great thing about having all this adjustment is it's easily done on track, so I can tinker around to see what works. I know Im not hitting the potential of my setup.
But since I wont be out again for a few weeks, I'm "thinking" about it.
Thoughts?
Last edited by RandomHer0; May 11, 2011 at 12:45 PM.
