Goodbye harness bar, hello custom rollbar!
12-21-2011, 08:39 AM
#21
If it was sleaved with an inner pipe it will actually be stronger than a straight bar, we still always ask how the join was made.
12-21-2011, 05:41 PM
#22
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Thanks to everyone for all the positive comments and help =)
It seems that the fabricator did a great job and at a heck of a good price.....I got the feeling he really takes pride in his work.
Next up is to see how much it weighs w/ the bar, need to have it at 3195lbs for TT @ Homestead in Jan.
It weighed 3380lbs including 135lbs of ballast, passenger seat, and 3/4 tank of gas the last time I ran it. So I figure:
3380
- 135 (ballast)
- 35 (passenger seat)
- 50 (gas)
- 20 (lightweight battery)
-----
3140
+100 (I'm guestimating here, should be 80 to 100lbs)
----
3240
That would mean I need take 40lbs or so off the car. So, either gut the driver's side door panel (including window) or remove the muffler...the door panel is further up front and higher up so that is probably the better vs the muffler.
Last edited by l30thelion; 12-21-2011 at 06:06 PM.
12-23-2011, 03:48 PM
#26
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Well, let's assume you had to add ballast to your car in a hurry....you probably would NOT go to Sports Authority and buy three 45lbs free weights because they were on sale, wrap them in thick cloth blankets, and stick em in the compartment right behind the passenger seat. You then would certainly NOT go to Home Depot and buy a piece of plywood, cut it to size, drill holes to screw said plywood to car and secure the weights in that compartment. Finally you would NEVER slide the passenger seat all the way back and recline it to add another layer of "safety" in case of an issue. I mean these are things you just wouldn't do because they are just plain stupid.
It's a good thing you wouldn't do any of that because you may later find out that the TT rules are very clear on exactly how ballast is to be secured, and that is NOT how you do it.
It's a good thing you wouldn't do any of that because you may later find out that the TT rules are very clear on exactly how ballast is to be secured, and that is NOT how you do it.
Last edited by l30thelion; 12-23-2011 at 03:53 PM.
12-23-2011, 04:01 PM
#27
Looks nice mate! Good tight fit around the roof line! You gonna gutted the excess metal; from the back end now? I ripped mine out on it looks a lot neater and takes a good bit of dead weight out too?
12-23-2011, 04:03 PM
#28
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Based on the info at http://www.ioportracing.com/faq/rollbar.htm I should be able to determine the weight of the rollbar....2lbs per foot for steel of these dimensions: 1.75 x .120.
Measured the bar today at 337in/12 is ~29ft * 2 = ~59lbs.
Also removed the stock seat belts, they weighed in at 9lbs. I may be able to get close to the target weight w/o gutting door.
Measured the bar today at 337in/12 is ~29ft * 2 = ~59lbs.
Also removed the stock seat belts, they weighed in at 9lbs. I may be able to get close to the target weight w/o gutting door.
12-23-2011, 04:08 PM
#29
Well, let's assume you had to add ballast to your car in a hurry....you probably would NOT go to Sports Authority and buy three 45lbs free weights because they were on sale, wrap them in thick cloth blankets, and stick em in the compartment right behind the passenger seat. You then would certainly NOT go to Home Depot and buy a piece of plywood, cut it to size, drill holes to screw said plywood to car and secure the weights in that compartment. Finally you would NEVER slide the passenger seat all the way back and recline it to add another layer of "safety" in case of an issue. I mean these are things you just wouldn't do because they are just plain stupid.
It's a good thing you wouldn't do any of that because you may later find out that the TT rules are very clear on exactly how ballast is to be secured, and that is NOT how you do it.
It's a good thing you wouldn't do any of that because you may later find out that the TT rules are very clear on exactly how ballast is to be secured, and that is NOT how you do it.
12-23-2011, 04:12 PM
#30
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Not sure exactly which excess metal you are referring to, but I use the car specifically for NASA TT competition.....the car is classed based on weight/hp. The target weight for the car is 3195lbs (at my current hp) so removing too much weight would take me out of the class. If I decide to move up to another class I may have to figure out how to remove weight (or add hp) but its gonna be really difficult to remove excess metal constrained by the bar now that it is in (at least that is what I think).
Last edited by l30thelion; 12-23-2011 at 04:44 PM.
12-23-2011, 04:57 PM
#31
Well, let's assume you had to add ballast to your car in a hurry....you probably would NOT go to Sports Authority and buy three 45lbs free weights because they were on sale, wrap them in thick cloth blankets, and stick em in the compartment right behind the passenger seat. You then would certainly NOT go to Home Depot and buy a piece of plywood, cut it to size, drill holes to screw said plywood to car and secure the weights in that compartment. Finally you would NEVER slide the passenger seat all the way back and recline it to add another layer of "safety" in case of an issue. I mean these are things you just wouldn't do because they are just plain stupid.
It's a good thing you wouldn't do any of that because you may later find out that the TT rules are very clear on exactly how ballast is to be secured, and that is NOT how you do it.
It's a good thing you wouldn't do any of that because you may later find out that the TT rules are very clear on exactly how ballast is to be secured, and that is NOT how you do it.
12-24-2011, 10:33 AM
#33
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I had to laugh when I read this because my son is 6-5 and his racing seat is one of those expensive wrap around kind and we also have two door bars with the upper one kind of high. I have trouble getting out of his race seat because my *** is wider than his and I get kind of wedged in the seat.
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