I mentioned I have a 4 pole with a link to my switch too, haha

 

I run a two pole on my modified setup so I can cut power for anti-theft, so I dont drain my battery, and for car-related events safety ... (I'll do my best to explain)

Alternator (connected to) starter (connected to) pole #1
Battery (on a seperate line, connected to) pole #1

Pole #2 (connected to) OEM IPDM

 

Which wire from the alternator are you using?

 

Any other help please?

 

I made my own with copper eyelet connectors. If it was off the car I'd take a picture

what are you getting held up on?

 

I installed a regular 2 pole switch on my track car, and it kills the engine just fine. The key is to attach the alternator cable directly to the battery + and install the switch between the battery and the rest of the connection block. This way the alternator doesn't keep the ignition going when the battery is disconnected. Works great without the need for extra 4 pole wiring.

 

Very interesting! Now when you say you attached the alternator cable directly to the positive, do you mean a separate wire for it? If what your saying is true, why can't I instead take the entire positive connection that goes to the battery +, and by entire I mean the entire block, which it seems to be from the battery and 2 other connections on the battery post with that clear fuse looking thing. If I take that entire block and run a thick battery cable to the kill switch then battery from the other side of the switch, why won't it kill the engine? from my understanding that has a lot more wires then just a battery, that thing is connected to the fuse block with ignition, alternator etc?? Am I wrong here? Will that not work?

 

Correct. The main wire that runs from the alternator to one of the main posts on the distribution block was removed from the distribution block. Also the battery connector was removed from the distribution block. The battery connector was attached directly to the alternator cable and the cable running to the kill switch. The cable coming from the kill switch was attach to the post on the distribution block where the alternator used to connect. So the entire distribution block goes through the kill switch with the exception of the alternator. I am using a nice and thick cable, equivalent in size to the alternator cable.

Again, the key is to connect the alternator before the kill switch, not after it, so that current from the alternator is not able to keep the ignition going once the kill switch is turned off.

 

Ok, I was thinking of something different not what you said. I was thinking of just taking the entire positive post on the battery, I think like 2 or 3 other wires go to this positive post? I would take the entire post weather 2 or 3 cables, run that to the kill switch, then back to the battery, Why won't that work? isn't that still going to interrupt the alternator and ignition this way? Here is a picture I made. I just googled a random 350z battery and I guess this car is RHD, but same thing. Take the entire bundle of cables from battery positive to kill switch as I drew on the windshield area, then back to the positive battery post... No? this won't work?

 

You gotta have a way to take the alternator out of the stream of electricity. Aside from starting, the car runs off the alternator unless the electrical consumption exceeds what the alternator can produce.

You need a switch that cuts the battery and the alternator bottom line.

 

Yes, I know that the alternator needs to be cut to shut the car. But it can be done by the ignition switch as well. I though possibly doing it the way I said above can work since it would take all the cables, from the fuse box with ignition control, alternator etc to be interrupted from the big ring terminal on the battery and not just using one cable that runs to the battery like I thought some may have done. (I am not saying my way can work, just was thinking why it can't?)

 

Wired as you showed the cut off switch would disconnect the battery from the car, but the car will keep running on alternator current alone. Not sure how to explain it any more simply, the kill switch needs to disconnect the battery AND the alternator from the rest of the car wiring.

 

I would second what Dr. H said and in all the examples and teachings I have come across you have to completely separate the alternator and battery from the power distribution.

I understand what youre saying and I can conceptualize how it'd work. At the end of the day it's your car and you can do whatever you want! If you want to only cut the battery than that'll be your choice. Best practice and how professional teams do it is by interrupting both battery and alternator.

 

That's the difference between kill switch and battery cut-off switch. A kill switch needs to be able to kill the engine in case of emergency. Battery cut-off switch functions only as a storage and/or security device to prevent battery drain or to prevent engine start. Neither is right or wrong, just depends on what the goal is. This thread title talks about a kill switch, therefore that's what I was describing for a simple 2 pole switch.

 

Thanks guys! I was just curious if that way I mentioned can work, didn't think so, so thanks for confirming it. I need a kill switch to kill the entire car from running. Today I got all my wiring in. Now ready to get wiring once I figure it out. So the battery situation I am ok with which I will run to the 2 big posts on my switch. Now just have to figure out a good way to kill the alternator. Will one of these mentioned works best?

1. Intercept the hot wire going to the alternator on the wiring harness.
2. Find an ignition switch to cut into behind the dash somewhere?

Either one of those I want to my smaller post on the switch. I was not planning to use that resistor like some people use for voltage spoke, hope that is ok? But on a 4 pole I don't see a good way to wire it in anyway.

I did this once before on my S2000 too! it was easy! Wish I remembered how I did it

 

Wish this thread didn't die

 

Its me again responding! I never did my kill switch install yet. But now with quarantine i have more time on my hands and will do it this weekend. I did a lot more research, and now seem to have a much better understanding on what to do. I do however have a 4 pole kill switch, I should have bought a 6 pole, but don't feel like buying another one. So I hope its ok and won't damage my alternator.

Here is how I plan to wire it. intercept the battery on the large poles. and the 2 other poles, intercept the ignition wire as shown previously here using the black/red wire under the steering wheel. Does this all sound ok and that it should work ok and safe? laze1, I see you had the 4 pole switch too, have you had any issues using it?