wiring to battery. dashcam
11-07-2015, 09:05 PM
#1
wiring to battery. dashcam
I'm planning to install my Dashcam directly to the battery.
I'm not much educated in electric related stuff so i should ask before i do it.
Is it ok to expose the end of a wire (the hard wiring kit is for dashcam so i assume the wire is for 5V or 12v?), loosen the nut on battery positive end and stick the bare red wire underneath the nut and tighten it?
a little worried that the wire might get hot and cause fire..
This is what i have.
I'm not much educated in electric related stuff so i should ask before i do it.
Is it ok to expose the end of a wire (the hard wiring kit is for dashcam so i assume the wire is for 5V or 12v?), loosen the nut on battery positive end and stick the bare red wire underneath the nut and tighten it?
a little worried that the wire might get hot and cause fire..
This is what i have.
11-08-2015, 01:30 AM
#2
no that is a terrible idea. if you just put it on the battery exposed it will come out, u need a connector on the end of the wire first off. second is if u plug something directly in to the battery itll drain your battery when your car is off. what you need to do is either take it to a shop or soilder the wire onto another wire that is only hot when the key is in.
11-08-2015, 01:58 AM
#3
no that is a terrible idea. if you just put it on the battery exposed it will come out, u need a connector on the end of the wire first off. second is if u plug something directly in to the battery itll drain your battery when your car is off. what you need to do is either take it to a shop or soilder the wire onto another wire that is only hot when the key is in.
Do you by any chance have a pic of how the red wire should be connected to battery positive post?
11-08-2015, 03:27 AM
#4
Use an O-ring to connect the wire to the battery terminal post. Something like this:
Whenever wiring to the battery, you should probably use an inline fuse. Like this:
The wire shouldn't get too hot and melt as long as you're using the proper gauge for the accessory's power requirements.
Here is a pic of an amp install off google that is not specific to our cars, but you should get the idea:
Whenever wiring to the battery, you should probably use an inline fuse. Like this:
The wire shouldn't get too hot and melt as long as you're using the proper gauge for the accessory's power requirements.
Here is a pic of an amp install off google that is not specific to our cars, but you should get the idea:
11-08-2015, 07:53 AM
#6
Thx for the detail post.
Hmm.. Inline fuse..the hardwire kit description doesnt say anything about inline fuse. It just says simple installation using two wires.
Kinda sounds like as long as i put the wires in correct places then i wouldnt have to worry about burning fuses or any electric parts..
I did some research and didnt find ppl saying about inline fuse. So im thinking if its necessary..
"proper gauge for the accessory's power requirements"
Can i ask for a favor? Could you go take a look at the kit description and tell me if its has the proper gauge for the accessorys pwr requirement?
Hmm.. Inline fuse..the hardwire kit description doesnt say anything about inline fuse. It just says simple installation using two wires.
Kinda sounds like as long as i put the wires in correct places then i wouldnt have to worry about burning fuses or any electric parts..
I did some research and didnt find ppl saying about inline fuse. So im thinking if its necessary..
"proper gauge for the accessory's power requirements"
Can i ask for a favor? Could you go take a look at the kit description and tell me if its has the proper gauge for the accessorys pwr requirement?
Use an O-ring to connect the wire to the battery terminal post. Something like this:
Whenever wiring to the battery, you should probably use an inline fuse. Like this:
The wire shouldn't get too hot and melt as long as you're using the proper gauge for the accessory's power requirements.
Here is a pic of an amp install off google that is not specific to our cars, but you should get the idea:
Whenever wiring to the battery, you should probably use an inline fuse. Like this:
The wire shouldn't get too hot and melt as long as you're using the proper gauge for the accessory's power requirements.
Here is a pic of an amp install off google that is not specific to our cars, but you should get the idea:
Last edited by JDMStanced; 11-08-2015 at 07:56 AM.
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11-08-2015, 01:39 PM
#8
Just looked at the Amazon link. It already has a 3 amp inline fuse in it (the black cylinder) so you won't need another one. Output is only 5v and 1.5 amps which is pretty low. I bet you'd be fine running anything 24 gauge or larger but I did not calculate the exact voltage drop. If you want to be exact Google search voltage drop calculator but it's probably unnecessary given the low power requirements.
If it were me, I would not run it to the battery but instead use a fuse tap and run it to something that only gets power when your car is on.
Like this:
To look like this:
If it were me, I would not run it to the battery but instead use a fuse tap and run it to something that only gets power when your car is on.
Like this:
To look like this:
11-08-2015, 02:02 PM
#9
Thank you!!
I think the voltage should drop to 11.6 before cutting off pwr. Leaving about 25% battery life till empty?
I actually want it to run 24/7 like surveillance camera. Hoping that this kit is effective.
I think the voltage should drop to 11.6 before cutting off pwr. Leaving about 25% battery life till empty?
I actually want it to run 24/7 like surveillance camera. Hoping that this kit is effective.
Just looked at the Amazon link. It already has a 3 amp inline fuse in it (the black cylinder) so you won't need another one. Output is only 5v and 1.5 amps which is pretty low. I bet you'd be fine running anything 24 gauge or larger but I did not calculate the exact voltage drop. If you want to be exact Google search voltage drop calculator but it's probably unnecessary given the low power requirements.
If it were me, I would not run it to the battery but instead use a fuse tap and run it to something that only gets power when your car is on.
Like this:
To look like this:
If it were me, I would not run it to the battery but instead use a fuse tap and run it to something that only gets power when your car is on.
Like this:
To look like this:
11-08-2015, 02:14 PM
#10
Ah, well if that's the case then you can either go directly to the battery or there should be a fuse that's still hot when the car is off. I think there should be an audio fuse that's always hot. Look on the fuse panel diagram for anything with "bat" on it as opposed to "acc" or "ign"
11-14-2015, 05:14 PM
#11
Ah, well if that's the case then you can either go directly to the battery or there should be a fuse that's still hot when the car is off. I think there should be an audio fuse that's always hot. Look on the fuse panel diagram for anything with "bat" on it as opposed to "acc" or "ign"
Cigarette-Mini usb cable.
So i'm thinking, is it ok to use a cable extender like this one?
Or do i have to extend the power wire itself?
It'll be easier for me to route the cable if i get the extender rather than extending wires.
11-14-2015, 05:50 PM
#12
If you run the battery down to 11.6 reguarly, the car won't start at times and battery life will be horrendous.
A fully charged battery is 12.6V, and discharged is at about 12.0.
11.6 might not be enough to start the car, the amperage is so diminished at that level.
A fully charged battery is 12.6V, and discharged is at about 12.0.
11.6 might not be enough to start the car, the amperage is so diminished at that level.
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