Anybody wire up a battery kill switch for their track car?

I'm moving my battery to the back and plan to install a kill switch that the driver, or a marshall, can reach (ie it will be installed at the front of the driver window on the dash).

Seems like I need a switch with alternator protection, see linked wiring diagram:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pd...structions.pdf

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1464

Where did you splice into the circuits, particularly the iginition? Given the complexity of the wiring in the 350z I'm a bit nervous about doing that.

Any tips/photos regarding your install appreciated.

Thanks

 

yep, the safety switch must interrupt the Alternator circuit to kill the car when it is running...I didn't install the kill-switch in my car. So let me take some pix of mine, and the color of the wire involved.

 

I would like to see this too. I am going to be installing one of these in my car soon. Thanks laze!

 

Gonna get pix Sunday

 

Look forward to seeing the pics.

Here's the basic idea so far.

 

in for updates

 

Sorry Guys for NO PICs yet...I was a Bum all weekend just drinkin' Beer and watching Football. I will do it this weekend...

Seriously, the parts I ordered didn't arrive last week, so I didn't have the required parts to do what I planned...so I changed my schedules around.

Note: my switch only has 4 poles, 2 for the Battery, and 2 smaller poles for the Alternator. But I like the 6 pole unit you have in your example below. However I have not had an Alternator problem with the current setup.

 

Does the battery have to be in a sealed box with a vent, just asking, not sure the rules and safety, planning on doing the same thing.

 

I have the exact same pegasus kill switch on the install to-do list and am also a bit nervous with the installation. It would be awesome that if we could come up with a more 350z specific guide.

 

I too have this same switch and am intrested in a 350z install diagram or pictures.

 

John,
Think Mike P has pics?

 

Couldn't you just use a 2 pole switch? I would think you can take whatever and all wire/cables going to the positive terminal of the battery and crimp them all together, which they pretty much are already and run that to one pole of the switch and the other pole to ground obviously.

Would that not work?

The only exception I think would be if you had some type of fire suppression or any other safety feature running on power then you could wire that to bypass the kill switch.

 

For a standard battery you must have a sealed and vented battery case that's secured to the frame of the vehicle.

 

I just took some pics, uploading them in a few mins...

Alternator wire to "switch" is White with red stripe...from the Alternator wiring harness

BTW: I am Laze1

 

And I have installed one...

 

Thanks Laze!

Do you run without the plastic trim pieces that cover up by the windshield wipers/master cylinder and battery cover? It doesn't appear they are on in the pic. Your battery is in the trunk though too isn't it?

 

The kill switch should cut all power. The fire systems run off the pressure of the tank.

 

That's what I thought, but I wasn't sure. I will probably just do mine with a 2 pole switch.

 

So, mine is wired like this:

From Battery via a LONG positive side cable (that has been relocated to thunk in a sealed BUT VENTED OUTSIDE box) to the Master kill switch on the dash >>>> Then From the Master kill switch to a jumper wire connecting to where the old Battery would have connected to the Fused Multi-junction gizmo that feeds the rest of the car.

On the Alternator, the White/Red wire was cut and now connect via a jumper wire to the Master Kill switch and back. It just loops thru the switch...switch closed...the White/Red circuit is complete... master switch open, the Alternater circuit is open an the car will not run if 12Vlts from the Battery is not present

My Master switch has 4 poles...2 large connectors for the Battery, and 2 smaller pole for the Alternator circuit

The rest of that wiring system is mostly OEM. However I have removed much of the extra crappage for Lights and Accessories

NOTE: You MUST kill the Alternator output via the Master switch or the car will continie to run when the Master Kill switch is Open. However the car will not start with the Master is open as No Battery power is present at the Fused Multi-junction gizmo that feeds the rest of the car.

Note 2: My car DOES NOT have the Alternate grounding as show in the original thread using a Master switch with 6 poles...

Make Sense?

 

Bad idea, see my other info on wiring.

You will not pass the "Master Kill switch kills running engine" test during Annual Tech inspection

unless you open the Alternator circuit with at least a 4 pole switch