The 2TH PWR Track Car conversion
#921
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Its to "re-seat" the pads. After coming onto a straight from a corner you can experience pad knock back and in the next brake zone the pedal will feel longer and will require a longer travel to get the desired brake pressure. This is sometimes mistaken as brake fade. To alleviate the problem you do a very light tap on the brake pedal in the straight to "re-seat" the pads so when you finally hit the brake the pedal at the end of the straight, it is much more firm and has the desired feel usually instilling more confidence and making it easier to heel/toe.
#923
make sure you also have high temp pads.
and then like I said, review your foot work.
I find a lot of people who complain of rapid fade are lingering on the brake pedal for a long time transferring heat from the rotor to the pads and calipers.
It's the whole over emphasis of gently squeezing onto the brake and gently coming off.
It's too long and its inefficient and it over heats everything.
So make sure you aren't dragging your foot on the brake pedal before investigating anything else mechanical.
and then like I said, review your foot work.
I find a lot of people who complain of rapid fade are lingering on the brake pedal for a long time transferring heat from the rotor to the pads and calipers.
It's the whole over emphasis of gently squeezing onto the brake and gently coming off.
It's too long and its inefficient and it over heats everything.
So make sure you aren't dragging your foot on the brake pedal before investigating anything else mechanical.
#924
I brake hard and do a bit of trailbraking into the corner but definetely no dragging. I do heel and toe too.
Are DS2500 pads enough or do I need at least something like DS3000? I have plain Stoptech rotors with diy air ducts at the front.
Are DS2500 pads enough or do I need at least something like DS3000? I have plain Stoptech rotors with diy air ducts at the front.
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