Dave 90TT

iTrader: (4)

cage for a DD is quite impractical and can be unsafe, unless you wear a helmet everywhere you go.

I recommend against the cage. I track my G in HPDE, and have no problems not running a cage.

Shamu Z

Rear roll bar is better approach than a cage. You can build in some level of roll protection, have a place to mount harranses and stiffen rear of car without safety issues associated with cage in a street car. For me it's best compromise for street/ track car.

mhoward1

I would add though that a person should do more than a few HPDE/Track days to make sure they even like it before doing any Roll bar installations or cutting in general.

quicksand

Marty...i saw where you may go 818-R, but are you a lil Z disappointed?.....er am i reading too much into your comment....not tryin to start a fire storm...Are you coming to RA this weekend...i'll look ya up

Thanx Sham

quicksand

BTW...I'm a fan of the Carroll Smith collection....will look at the suggested reading as well...i just need more seat time for the books to click...

mhoward1

Sham,

Not at all. I loved running a Z and I think they make GREAT track cars. I got the FFRC because...well...I always wanted a cobra since I was 7 years old and saw Gumball Rally.

I may move to the 818-R because I like the concept and May get the chance to have the first or second race version ever built. I will get the campaign the car and prove it out. I have a great relationship with FFR and love the stuff they build in general.

I am just trying to make sure before anyone goes down the road of modifying any car for the track they have a good idea where they want to go, and what is the end goal. Make sure they actually like tracking the car, and get a feel of general car control and chassis feel so they can make informed decisions.

Yes, I'll be down at RA so come on by and say hi. I'll be there for the test and tune as well on Friday.

AznSky

iTrader: (12)

What are your guys' thoughts about adding in a rear roll bar while keeping the headliner and interior/rear plastic pieces in?

I was talking with a friend who may make my rollbar for me and he suggested that we remove the headliner since ideally the tubing should butt up against the roof. However with the headliner in, there would be a decent gap between the tubing and the roof.

Thoughts? I think it'd be cleaner with the headliner and interior in, but once i remove the headliner and interior then the bar would have to be adjusted closer to the sheet metal?

Ideally I want this car to end up in TT at least (maybe Spec Z but I doubt it) but still streatable for at least a couple more seasons

Dave 90TT

iTrader: (4)

You can run TT without a rollbar.

mhoward1

Not all, but many clubs. Some want at least a main hoop and supports.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

www.betamotorsport.com and look into a Kirk racing rollbar, I have one in mine, pics are posted somewhere. The only prob, will will probably remove it later as I'm doing this winter for a full cage. I also suggest proper seats and harness when running one.

AznSky

iTrader: (12)

I know that, but I'd like to get seats and a harness plus since I'm pushing the car more, safety is always good.

And I know about the kirk rollbar too. A local Z owner (thekinn) got his so i'll check out how it fits. But I was thinking it'd be nice to get a custom one.

Plus that brings up the endless debate on bolt vs weld in.......

N80

I would echo the minimalist approach. Spend your money on track time, not stuff. I've done 5 track weekends in mine. These are the only things I'd spend money on until you have a lot more track time:

*ATE Super Blue brake fluid.
*Same thing for the clutch.
*Carbotech XP10s up front and XP8s on the back (as recommended by Carbotech for this car, for DE, with street tires...works great)
*Decent but not expensive high performance summer street tires
*CG-Lock seat belt lock
*helmet

With these things you will have a very competent DE car that is still a perfectly civilized DD (once you put your street pads back on).

Every other penny goes to track time.....which is as expensive as it is valuable.

quicksand

i appreciate the input....i have been around club racing on and off for quite a while....so i get the big pic...thanks again

quicksand

Met John and Clark at Road Atlanta this weekend in between meet and greets with the factory five guys...the Spec Z thing is very doable...you can race on the cheap and not be that slow

B-Mackin

I'm building a simular set up and after alot of research here is what I've got so far:

Motordyne shockwave exhaust and ART test pipes
Osiris uprev tune
Injen CAI's
H&R coilovers
Z-Speed TZR stage 1 clutch pacakge with HD slave kit
Fidanza 14lb Flywheel
25/30mm Spacers

Ordering:
Cusco 6 point cage (for my safty only)
G37 BBK upgrade with 2 piece rotors and good brake pads
SPL suspension arms
18x10 RPF1's (there not alot of $$ and they are lite)
Stillen Diff cover

Thats my build hope it helps you.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

I'll spare your life....don't buy the cusco "cage".

Shamu Z

Agreed. I actually started my 370z with a custom made bolt in roll bar just in case I didn't want to go further with my car. Allowed me to keep all interior.

To OP. For those just starting no reason for a cage. Get out with instructor and see if tracking is your cup of tea.

mhoward1

great putting a face with a nickname. Good meeting you.

DaveSB

iTrader: (1)

Same, they will not pass tech. Autopower is who made my cage. Decent fitment, similar price and will pass tech when installed correctly.