Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.

I'm looking forward to the final alignment vs wheel-well-fit, and don't mind rolling the fenders on the rear if needed.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Looking at your installed at full droop pic, it seems like the helper is fully compressed. If so, you could have just run an inch longer spring.

SnoXRacer183

iTrader: (3)

I was wondering the same thing. Looks like there is nearly 2" of room on the threaded perch yet for a longer spring as well, plus some adjustment

Glenn350zHR

iTrader: (5)

fully compressed the helper only adds 1/2" but its not fully compressed at full droop trust me. i have 7in springs i tried. they would just fall out of the bucket if you werent holding it. 7in also doesnt give you much room to lower the car much.

Shane86

iTrader: (1)

Just as an FYI for anyone ordering a rear spring setup from BC Racing, the parts you need are:

High/Low Kit - $85
Spring Bucket Adapters - $85

I ordered just the high/low kit thinking it had what i needed, but had to call back and order the spring bucket adapters. If you need wrenches too, a set will run you $25.

Glenn350zHR

iTrader: (5)

car went on its maiden test voyage to the office in STU trim today.
I have an appointment on wednesday next week for some suspension tuning. I have the car setup right now by eye. Toe seems to be close to zero in front rears have slight toe in(from lowering the car). Definitely have more static camber in the rear right now just from lowering the car about an inch. I have the kinetic ball joints as far as i could go negative (still not as much camber as in the rear). We will be fabricating some offset bushing wednesday to get more camber. with the 285s and rolled fenders i do not seem to have any rubbing and I was slaloming down the street at a good clip. Also the 1000lb springs with the revalved shocks I was surprised that the ride quality seem fairly compliant on regular roads.

SnoXRacer183

iTrader: (3)

Did you grind down the threaded "nub" on the arms? That will gain you a significant amount of camber, and is probably easier than offset bushings

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have recommendations on a legal aftermarket clutch and flywheel combo?

I see three different names on rockauto but I know nothing about them.

I'm hoping I don't have to buy from a stealership to get STU-legal parts.

jpasterjak

For Street Touring you're pretty much limited to OEM-equivalent pieces. We used an Exedy clutch and resurfaced the stock flywheel. I can't imagine any of the Rock Auto options (the ones with the stock-type spring setup) being dramatically different.

J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.

Thinking of getting the "LuK" dual mass unit. Looks like stock? I hope it holds up as well as stock.

Shane86

iTrader: (1)

After having to replace my entire rear subframe due to the previous owner of my car apparently being a flushtard.. It's back on the ground and moveable again.

Anyone have a good baseline for ride heights? Alignment Specs?

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

My alignment is kind of mild:

-2.5 front camber, -2 rear camber, 1/8" toe out up front. 1/8" toe in in the back. My current springs lower the car just over 1/2".

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

I have a question for those tracking 1k springs:

I am running 345# F and 410# rear ATM and my car's balance feels great. It seems counter intuitive to invert the front/rear relationship if I expect to maintain the balance I really like now. (by going with 1k F and 800 R)

I understand how bypassing the rear sway will help my Quaife work better, but that also further softens the rear's roll stiffness relative to the front's, and theoretically alters the front/rear balance farther away from what I currently enjoy.

It's not the idea of generally stiffening the springs that I'm asking about. It's changing the balance (front to rear) that seems odd to me.

l30thelion

iTrader: (3)

Thinking of upgrading, need some advice.

I currently run Truechoice Koni Phase IVs w/ spring rates of 500/425. Was thinking of making the switch to the ProParts USA setup (want some of that magic).

I'm wondering if they are built/tested specifically for the demands of autox and maybe not ideal for the track duty (TT)?

My Z's competition weight (w/ driver) would be in the 3000-3100lbs range, running 275 R6s, 4.08 gears, and OS Giken LSD.....would it make sense to run the ProParts setup w/ 1000/850 rates for my track only car? Benefits vs lower rates?

Thanks

Slaloms

I'd bet money you're cornering on your bumpstops, thus the balance you're feeling at the limit is a function of them vs your actual spring rates.

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Edit* How much of a spring rate "spread" can a set of custom-valved SA Koni's tolerate? (Just in case I want to change the springs later and experiment)

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

I'm considering going with a fixed height in the rear and just using front spring perches to alter the rake. Is this a viable option and if so, about how low should I take the rear down when I get springs? ( I was thinking somewhere between 3/4 inch and 1 inch lower than stock)

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

You want adjustable perches out back. Use of rear ride height is pretty key in dialing the car in....

Glenn350zHR

iTrader: (5)

you will never be able to corner balance the car this way. spend the 160$ for the rear adjustable perches and adapters.

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Well that settles that.

I found a subframe at ZDayZ, so that's next. I should have the A-arms on by then too. My car should be ST legal in the next month or so. -Then I can get to work on actually making it faster.

The shocks have some turn-around time involved, so I'm trying to make up my mind in the next week or two and send them out.