Brian Peters STR 350Z
03-06-2014, 04:47 PM
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Thanks so much for all the info Brian. I know Andy Hollis bugged you on our behalf to post the updated build info, and it's much appreciated.
We're prepping a 2003 350Z for STU this year,and hoping to be at Dixie with it in some form or another. We originally bought the car about a year ago when we took over Nissan Sport magazine, figuring it was as good a time as any to do a Nissan project. The guy who was in charge of the project sort of got busy with his own stuff, though, so it's really just sat in the barn and done nothing for a year.
About a week ago, Editor David Wallens and I were discussing our plans for Dixie (originally, he was going to drive our TDI VW Beetle and I was going to drive my Chevy Volt, both on Rivals. Interesting, but hardly exciting). We decide the Z had done nothing long enough and we should throw some effort into getting it going.
It turned out to be both a little rougher and a little better than we previously realized. Several bushings were shot, the clutch was iffy, the valve covers were leaking, and the brakes were barely there. It was cleaner and straighter than we had remembered, though (under the dirt, anyway).
We like to baseline cars as we buy them, but this one needed at least a little work just to safely make it to south Georgia. So we called in a couple favors with some suppliers and got them to send a few parts rather expeditiously so we could get it in driving shape. It's currently undergoing bushing surgery with parts from Whiteline, an Exedy OEM-spec clutch and some off-the-shelf brakes. TSW will be sending a set of wheels, and BFG will have Rivals heading our way, but we're not sure if they'll be here in time for Dixie. Or, for that matter, whether all the current work will actually be done.
As purchased, the car sits on some no-name shocks and a set of "lowering" springs. It does have some decent-looking Volks, but they're currently wearing a set of mismatched tires from a country in Asia I don't even think exists anymore. If we get it road worthy again, I'll probably run it at Dixie as it sits, just to get a baseline and get some project fodder.
Our eventual hope is to take it to Lincoln this year. Hopefully competitively, although I have a lot of rust to knock off of that's going to happen.
Couple questions I don't think I found answers to in the thread:
1. Spring length?
2. Wha'd you do for seats? Anyone have experience or fittment info with anything lighter than stock?
Thanks again. glad this thread is here.
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
We're prepping a 2003 350Z for STU this year,and hoping to be at Dixie with it in some form or another. We originally bought the car about a year ago when we took over Nissan Sport magazine, figuring it was as good a time as any to do a Nissan project. The guy who was in charge of the project sort of got busy with his own stuff, though, so it's really just sat in the barn and done nothing for a year.
About a week ago, Editor David Wallens and I were discussing our plans for Dixie (originally, he was going to drive our TDI VW Beetle and I was going to drive my Chevy Volt, both on Rivals. Interesting, but hardly exciting). We decide the Z had done nothing long enough and we should throw some effort into getting it going.
It turned out to be both a little rougher and a little better than we previously realized. Several bushings were shot, the clutch was iffy, the valve covers were leaking, and the brakes were barely there. It was cleaner and straighter than we had remembered, though (under the dirt, anyway).
We like to baseline cars as we buy them, but this one needed at least a little work just to safely make it to south Georgia. So we called in a couple favors with some suppliers and got them to send a few parts rather expeditiously so we could get it in driving shape. It's currently undergoing bushing surgery with parts from Whiteline, an Exedy OEM-spec clutch and some off-the-shelf brakes. TSW will be sending a set of wheels, and BFG will have Rivals heading our way, but we're not sure if they'll be here in time for Dixie. Or, for that matter, whether all the current work will actually be done.
As purchased, the car sits on some no-name shocks and a set of "lowering" springs. It does have some decent-looking Volks, but they're currently wearing a set of mismatched tires from a country in Asia I don't even think exists anymore. If we get it road worthy again, I'll probably run it at Dixie as it sits, just to get a baseline and get some project fodder.
Our eventual hope is to take it to Lincoln this year. Hopefully competitively, although I have a lot of rust to knock off of that's going to happen.
Couple questions I don't think I found answers to in the thread:
1. Spring length?
2. Wha'd you do for seats? Anyone have experience or fittment info with anything lighter than stock?
Thanks again. glad this thread is here.
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
03-06-2014, 07:52 PM
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Our car has power seats and VDC so i assume it's not a Base. Although, if there's a separate switch for traction control apart from the VDC switch I haven't found it yet. Once the bushings are in (hopefully Monday) we're dragging it back to my shop for a thorough once-over and familiarization and final decision about Dixie.
Even if we can't make it in the Z, our lifeboat is pretty sweet. 2014 Miata Club Edition hard top press car. Came on some crazy 140 tread wear Bridgestones. We called Mazda and got the go ahead to run it if our thing didn't come together.
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
03-07-2014, 08:05 AM
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J.G., you're welcome on the setup share, just keep in mind I may have no idea what I'm doing!
To answer those questions, I'm running 7" front springs and 6" rear (using Megan 2.5" spring perches). The fronts could be longer and the rears are using some Hyperco helper springs to keep stuff in place at droop.
I recently purchased a used Sparco Rev Plus seat (which is going to keep me on a diet). When used with supposed Sparco side mounts and sliders on a Megan mount, my helmet is uncomfortably up against the headliner. I'm only 5'9", but do sit very close to the wheel.
I'd be curious to know if anybody has experience with the Megan mount vs Sparco "low" with regards to seat height. Mike's comment suggests it shouldn't be a challenge, but I'm going to have to do some drilling and cutting of the side mounts at this point. I think I can gain another 1.25" when I drop the seat down on top of the rails.
To answer those questions, I'm running 7" front springs and 6" rear (using Megan 2.5" spring perches). The fronts could be longer and the rears are using some Hyperco helper springs to keep stuff in place at droop.
I recently purchased a used Sparco Rev Plus seat (which is going to keep me on a diet). When used with supposed Sparco side mounts and sliders on a Megan mount, my helmet is uncomfortably up against the headliner. I'm only 5'9", but do sit very close to the wheel.
I'd be curious to know if anybody has experience with the Megan mount vs Sparco "low" with regards to seat height. Mike's comment suggests it shouldn't be a challenge, but I'm going to have to do some drilling and cutting of the side mounts at this point. I think I can gain another 1.25" when I drop the seat down on top of the rails.
03-07-2014, 09:41 AM
#110
I use the "super low" buddy club mounts. The old XL seat was too wide for them to go all the way down to the lowest setting, but still lower than stock. Without those rails, my head was jammed up to headliner as well (also only 5'9" tall). FWIW, I also use 7" front and 6" rear springs.
03-07-2014, 11:04 AM
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You could also just pull the padding out of the bottom of the seat for your runs. Or run thinner padding. That'll get you about 2". That's the easy fix, anyway.
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
03-08-2014, 05:50 PM
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So, I've been exploring front upper control arms. It looks like you may be able to make an argument that the Megan racing arms may not be legal because of the mounting configuration of the ball joint being on a big metal plate and throwing off the metal/non-metal ratio requirement. Anyone have any thoughts/precedent involving these arms?
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
03-11-2014, 01:24 PM
#115
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Mike I sent the koni yellows that i picked up for 100$ to ProParts. having them revalved and reconditioned for 1000/800 springs along with front coilover sleeves. estimated price quote i got was around 800$. should know the exact cost in a week or two when they are complete. 4-6 week turnaround time.
03-11-2014, 02:51 PM
#116
It looks like you may be able to make an argument that the Megan racing arms may not be legal because of the mounting configuration of the ball joint being on a big metal plate and throwing off the metal/non-metal ratio requirement. Anyone have any thoughts/precedent involving these arms?
My understanding that was just about bushings. If one were to call the ball joint a bushing, it doesn't really contain any non-metal to begin with.. simply a boot, which is easily equivalent on the Megan arms, or realistically any arm you purchase.
Unless the stock Z arm has a rubber isolator bushing that the ball joint installs into, i don't see where you'd be loosing any rubber.
It's virtually an identical arrangement to the Skunk2 Control arms that have been deemed "ST Legal" for the ST Civic crowd for a few years after a near protest review.
Civic arms for reference:
http://cms.skunk2.com/id/50/88-91-Ci...nt-Camber-Kit/
03-11-2014, 04:22 PM
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I'm curious about this.. How would the sliding plate be an argument against the metal/non metal ratio?
My understanding that was just about bushings. If one were to call the ball joint a bushing, it doesn't really contain any non-metal to begin with.. simply a boot, which is easily equivalent on the Megan arms, or realistically any arm you purchase.
Unless the stock Z arm has a rubber isolator bushing that the ball joint installs into, i don't see where you'd be loosing any rubber.
It's virtually an identical arrangement to the Skunk2 Control arms that have been deemed "ST Legal" for the ST Civic crowd for a few years after a near protest review.
Civic arms for reference:
http://cms.skunk2.com/id/50/88-91-Ci...nt-Camber-Kit/
My understanding that was just about bushings. If one were to call the ball joint a bushing, it doesn't really contain any non-metal to begin with.. simply a boot, which is easily equivalent on the Megan arms, or realistically any arm you purchase.
Unless the stock Z arm has a rubber isolator bushing that the ball joint installs into, i don't see where you'd be loosing any rubber.
It's virtually an identical arrangement to the Skunk2 Control arms that have been deemed "ST Legal" for the ST Civic crowd for a few years after a near protest review.
Civic arms for reference:
http://cms.skunk2.com/id/50/88-91-Ci...nt-Camber-Kit/
At any rate, it's a frustrating rule. The intent of ST is supposed preclude a lot of custom manufactured parts. Not that I mind making stuff, just that I'd like to see the rule in practice match the rule in intent.
So what's the bushing situation on the Megan arms? Any more or less legal than the Kinetix? And what about the other brands out there, like Stillen, or SPC, or the no-name eBay stuff?
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
03-11-2014, 06:20 PM
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I haven't looked that close at the factory arms yet, but I got the impression that the ball joint was rubber isolated out on the end of the arm. I could be wrong.
At any rate, it's a frustrating rule. The intent of ST is supposed preclude a lot of custom manufactured parts. Not that I mind making stuff, just that I'd like to see the rule in practice match the rule in intent.
So what's the bushing situation on the Megan arms? Any more or less legal than the Kinetix? And what about the other brands out there, like Stillen, or SPC, or the no-name eBay stuff?
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
At any rate, it's a frustrating rule. The intent of ST is supposed preclude a lot of custom manufactured parts. Not that I mind making stuff, just that I'd like to see the rule in practice match the rule in intent.
So what's the bushing situation on the Megan arms? Any more or less legal than the Kinetix? And what about the other brands out there, like Stillen, or SPC, or the no-name eBay stuff?
J.G. Pasterjak
Production Manager/Art Director
Grassroots Motorsport magazine
Classic Motorsports magazine
