No leaks and it looks like the cooling system is properly bled. I don't know what the big fuss is about bleeding it, I had absolutely zero problems. (Bringing extra coolant to the track just in case )Hoping the trans temps are better, I don't really have a plan B on hand yet.

 

I've been looking everywhere for a Nismo v1 bumper. Where'd you get this? looks great

 

It was from a member here but I'm not sure he's active anymore. If you search aerosync it will show up.

 

Bested my Road America time by a second and a half while fighting an overheating trans the entire time. If I shifted around 6k I could make it through the whole session so it wasn't a complete waste of a trip. Looking into an electric fan now.

Sidenote, my videos absolutely suck. So much wind noise, going to Google a solution for that as well.

 

Couple links to single laps. Turn down your speakers the wind is killer.

 

 

Well the trans is still killing me. Made it through the morning sessions fine but the afternoon sessions lasted about 15 minutes. Right now I have an external cooler, fan, and even tried insulating the lines by the exhaust. Looks like a deeper pan is a real solution.

I still managed to take 4 seconds off my best time. I even lifted to let someone pass as well. Should be sniffing a sub 3 minute time soon.

 

Well my winter projects are starting to come in the mail. I have SPL front control arms, SPL rear camber arms, and a set of Koni yellows on hand. I'm just waiting on the Swift springs to be delivered. I'm going to try the alignment myself, already have toe in plates and a camber/caster gauge.

Also ordered a PML trans pan that I'm hoping takes care of my overheating.

How do these alignment specs look for what I'm doing?
Front: -2.5 camber, 1/8in toe in
Rear: -2 camber, no toe in

 

Got the oil changed and the new transmission pan installed. Still have to wire the temp sensor in.

 

Finished one side last night. Took a guess at the camber but I'm expecting I'll have to adjust it anyways afterwards.

 

Man I am having some crap luck with Z1 products. First, the aluminum oil pan plug broke off in my pan. Got the plug out no problem but the magnet was stuck inside. Removed the pan and resealed.

I was finishing up my rear camber arms and springs last night. I just happened to notice my rear diff bushing decided to push through the front subframe and into the diff. There is about a half inch between the washer and the bushing on the backside....Z1 bushing kit. Just ordered SPL solids. One project after another.

 

Good move, you are already running sphericals so may as well. The NVH increase is real but worth it.

 

Hit a pretty big speed bump. I'll be having some neck surgery to repair a disc, so I cancelled the first track day. Good excuse to look into HAN's devices now. I'm going with a Kirk Roll bar, still shopping for a seat and harness.

Anyone have any experience with a Hans in a 350z? I know some of the seats are pretty tight as it is.

 

I run a HANS (slowly becoming mandatory across the orgs if you have any seat/restraint/airbag modifications), and there are several good seats that will work in the Z. Its the bolster hitting the door if you are running a door card that causes the fitment issues, as some seats run crazy wide. I run an HTE-R 400 (same as the regular HTE-R just narrower head restraints) and it fits even with the door cards in (no contact). Hope the surgery and recovery go well. Didnt happen on track did it?

 

Nah had lingering issues for awhile. Finally decided to get it checked out. No clue what caused it.

Update: rear arms and springs are in. What a breeze that was, compared to the front. I made my own camber lock-out bolts/washers. Saved about 50 bucks. Got the rear end out. That bushing was fubar, will make a seperate thread in it.

 

No update on the diff bushing failure. I'm just going to go ahead with the solids and add a brace. No clue why it moved out of the mount so freely. But a brace should keep it in place.

Also, I went ahead with a Kirk roll bar and a Sparco Grid 2 seat. The measurements look pretty close to the door so I'm expecting it to rub slightly. May or may not sand the fiberglass edge to make it fit better. I've really liked my Zamp helmet so I went ahead with their HAN's as well. About half the price of the name brand one. Using Sparco's 2in six point harness as well. Hopefully I don't find any other surprises and this is it for the year.

 

So the solid bushing is a lot harder to install than rubber. I couldn't tap it in, so I rigged up this hilarious contraption. Didn't kill myself and it worked great. Pulled the bushing through no problem. Ol Craftsmans didn't even bend. Do not try at home.



End result.

 

I'm officially out of parts to put in and I can finally set the toe and camber.

Still waiting for the Kirk rollbar. Hoping to have it by the end of the month. The seat, harness, and hans look like they will all work great together. Hopefully the buddy club rail is a good height.

Pics of rear camber arm with the lockout kit I made.

 

This upgraded power steering cooler was the easiest thing I have ever done. And cheap!

 

Alright. Got the front end sorted. Camber is somewhere between -2.6 and 2.70. Its the exact same on each side. Just hard to get an exact measurement with a bubble gauge. Toe-out set to 1/16. I'll tackle the rear tomorrow.