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By the way do you know how much weight the cage has added? What kind of steel did you use? CDS or the lighter stronger but more expensive T45 steel tubing? I also noticed the care wasn't seam welded. What's the verdict on seam welding? I'm contemplating if i should pay extra to get this done while they are at it but not if it he difference is marginal with a substantial cage.
What do you or anyone think?
I guess the cage added about 40kg (maybe up to 60kg). I don't know what steel they used, but probably the best and most expensive one. I'm not really into welding so I can't help you there.
It's time for an update. I wanted to do this two months ago, but then things got complicated...
I bought some nice SPL parts and a whole bag of oem nissan bolts (nearly every single suspension nut and bolt) from CZP.
After pressing out all the bushings from the subframe, blasting the whole thing (which was a real pain to do outside in a cardboard because my cabin was too small and took 3-4 hours), pressing in the new bushings, installing the whole subframe and every component and torquing everything to spec, I realized that my subframe was bent...
There was no way to fix this so I had to take everything apart again. Problem was that you can't just press out these bushings. There is no way to get the two big ones out, so I had to cut the perfectly fresh subframe apart. After that I used a milling machine to mill the subframe around the bushing to set it free. Worked pretty good without damaging it.
Here in germany are not too many 350z subframes, so it's not that easy to get and much more expensive than in the US. The first one I got was damaged, so I drove quite a distance to inspect and buy another one. Now I had to do all this again, but this time the bushings were even harder to get out and I had to cut out the diff bushing.
This of course took some time, but luckily my father and some friends helped me out quite a bit, mostly with their milling machine where we also fabricated some tools to get the bushings in and out. I also bought a R6 where I put in quite a bit of work in tuning and freshen it up for the season, which also cost me some weeks.
But now it's done and I'm never touching that subframe again...
Here is my old subframe:
And here's the good stuff:
It's getting there. I've to make some hardlines for the brakes and then I could take it for a test drive. The electrical issue has been solved and the entire cable tree has been installed. I'll reduce it soon and will make a new one with a custom fuse box when the car drove some miles and everything is working fine.
As you can see I got a lithium battery, wrapped the exhaust and much more.
But of course there are still a lot of little things to do, but the hardest and critical stuff has been done.
Here's a cutted soundfile of a testrun with only the headers and cats installed:
I'll be doing the same to my car later this year or at the beginning of next one! What overall weight are you aiming at? What are you plans for the body work and aero? What headers are these and is this KW Clubsport?
Nice project. I'm aiming for 1200kg (without driver) because that's the limit for my class. I'm going to buy carbon doors, rear hatch and hood. Also going to build a full underbody with diffusor and splitter, rear spoiler and wheel arch ventilation. The header is from QAS, but they are not around anymore. Yes it's a KW clubsport.
ive heard of this swap but whats the comprehensive list or guide to do it? Someone who has actually done it and proven to work. I’d like to do this too now as i need to refresh all my bearings.
have you looked into the 370z axle and bearing upgrade?
Originally Posted by GT4Zed
ive heard of this swap but whats the comprehensive list or guide to do it? Someone who has actually done it and proven to work. I’d like to do this too now as i need to refresh all my bearings.
There is a thread here that discusses that. I think it was updated just this past week. (Not sure, didn't open it to know if it would help you.):
In any event, it's still refreshing to come back to this thread and see a real build with this much attention to detail. So refreshing compared to the usual dreamer threads and hack jobs we see so much of. Thanks for sharing, Marcel!
Hi,
I have swapped out my 350z rear axles to 2008 G37 axles and 2014 Q60 hubs and bearings. Parts are direct bolt on and it will make future replacing of the rear wheel bearings easier. I did have to order 2010 370z axle to diff bolts since they are shorter than oem 350z axle bolts and do not require a nut, just bolts with red loctite on them, per nissan. I have done 6 track events and have had 0 issues with this swap.
Hope this helps, feel free to PM me if you have questions.
Originally Posted by GT4Zed
ive heard of this swap but whats the comprehensive list or guide to do it? Someone who has actually done it and proven to work. I’d like to do this too now as i need to refresh all my bearings.
Any progress mate? What's your BTG goal? I'm sure you will be testing the car at public days before hitting the VLN series.
So far the only 350z that did <8:00 BTG is this one I think - also a VLN race car afaik:
Any progress mate? What's your BTG goal? I'm sure you will be testing the car at public days before hitting the VLN series.
So far the only 350z that did <8:00 BTG is this one I think - also a VLN race car afaik
Hey, yeah I've worked quite a lot on the car. I think I'll make an update when the car is ready to drive in a month or so.
Yes I'll test the car in Meppen first and will maybe drive some other races on GP tracks before I drive RCN.
My BTG goal on street tires right now would be somewhere around 7:45min. My ultimate goal is to get under 7min in the far future with full aero, built engine, gearbox and so on.
Hey, it's been quite some time so I thought I should make an update.
I've worked quite a lot on the car and I've nearly nothing left to do.
Besides putting everything together, upgrading every fluid in the car, fabricating a lot of mountings and so on, I also got a lot of new parts.
Mishimoto rad fans, cp6467 brake master cylinders (new ABS optimized version), Enkei RS05RR wheels (18x10.5, 18x11),
Michelin Slicks (27/65, 30/65), brake balance adjuster, rev-up lower plenum, heated windscreen, 2nd seat...
I also did all the braided pfte lines for the clutch and the brake master cylinders and hardlines from these to each wheel.
I picked up my heated windscreen from ricky evans motorsport by myself from england. Thanks again to Dan for the great service.
These guys build really good windscreens for a pretty good price.
I also visited GT4Zed on that opportunity who gave me a rev-up plenum. Thanks again for that and the hospitality my friend
Crew Knüttel helped me out with the slicks, thanks again for the tires and the service.
But the biggest thanks goes to Albert. He helped me out big time with this amazing 3d printed (metal sintered) aluminium oil pan.
I'm really happy to have this beautiful and special piece of art under my car.
He got great skills and is working on other great things for his Z. Really, can't thank you enough.
He also included a spacer so that the oil snorkel sits right in the hole. That should be good enough to not let my engine starve
in corners.
Now all that's left to do are the few things that the rally shop has to do (install windscreen, 'cage' and panels for the oem fuel tank,
door panels, panel and footrest for the pedal box, roll/widen the wheel arches). Then I can bleed the brakes and finally take it on the track.
After that I'll make a new harness with custom fuse boxes, a splitter, diffusor and a new exhaust.
You'll propably see more 3d printed parts on this car, especially for some aero parts
12-29-2017, 03:08 AM
