Noticed my front rotors are done, gonna shop for 2 piece replacements Monday

 

wish I could wear my brakes out! only one track day this year so far. My own damn fault, too many distractions. this is more of a build/mechanical year for me versus driving.

 

so this is new to me. Was looking at the battery and found a bunch of paint peeling off in that area like it was being eaten by battery acid. All the cables look fine and the battery seems to be ok too. Not sure what's going on, it's almost like the battery fumes are eating the paint, but aren't these new batteries sealed? There was white powder all over everything, I washed it all down before I took the pics.

 

there are no obvious vent holes on the battery that would allow attaching a breather tube except these oval ports on each side, but no way to plug a hose onto those... Is it just a **** battery design??

 

Hmm. does that oval port open into the cap? maybe rig a tube. it's good you caught it. My battery environment is a disaster. I need to relocate it to the trunk.

 

Also occurs to me that the driver's side that this port is open towards is where the battery acid would slush towards during hard cornering at most tracks I got to. Yeah, I'll either have rig a breather hose of some sort or just go ahead and replace with a lightweight battery now, since this battery is from 2018 anyways.

 

On subject of batteries. A lot of my racing buddies are running Odyssey powersports batteries, these are also small motorcycle AGM batteries with 170 cranking amps, which seems to be enough. Not sure if the 600+ CCAs that stock battery or the Antigravity battery puts out is really necessary. Also, there is another brand of NOCO lithium batteries that are comparable to the Antigravity at lower costs. Their 700 CCA battery is $200 on Amazon. Has anyone tried the NOCOs in a car application?

And on subject of charging lithium batteries in cars. The reason they need a lithium compatible stand-alone chargers is that regular chargers have circuits that spike the voltage to remove sulphur buildup in lead acid batteries, those spikes can kill a lithium battery, so the charger needs to be able to provide voltage without spikes. But a vehicle alternator will work just fine to charge a lithium battery as the current is spike-free.

 

I bought a CTEK for the Cayman after a year of battery hassle. If it sits for 2 weeks, the battery was always dead and I got sick of that. The CTEK stays plugged in 24/7 when it's not being driven. I bolted an adapter to the battery terminals that sticks out the frunk lid. when the battery is full, the CTEK will let it drain down to 80% and then trickle charge it back up again, continuously, to keep the battery healthy. this company also offers lithium chargers. I imagine a lithium has less capacity so it might be a good idea to have a trickle charger on it.

 

Yeah, lithium batteries are only starter batteries, the capacity is minimal. However Antigravity claims "The RE-START Batteries do not self-discharge like Lead/Acid Batteries. They can be stored 3x longer than lead/acid but should be checked every 4-6 months or sooner if connected to a vehicle with “Parasitic Drains”" Since my car resides in the trailer for up to 4 months at a time (with kill switch turned off) I do hope that's true.

BTW, my Boxster sits on a trickle charger most of the time as well. These cars do have quite a bit of drain with all the electronics.

 

Check out my thread, the battery I got is super lightweight and very affordable. Ditch that acid battery! They are trash and heavy af

 

Yeah, we discussed this before. I'm trying to decide between the Anitgravity battery you have and the cheaper NOCO option

 

Corroseal rust neutralizer applied. Goes on white, turns black as it works. It's not pretty but it's effective.

 

It's not gonna win any art competitions, but at least it's protected now

 

solid, should do the trick. Glad you found it before it got much worse

 

The braille AGM (which is still an acid battery) is like $200 for a 20lb battery -

 

That's 20lbs lighter than the stock battery. But NOCO battery is 35lbs lighter and also $200.

 

are you looking at the NLP 30? this is a great subject. I'm giving myself a crash course right now... the NLP30 only has 8AH / 700 amps. idk what is actually required for a 350Z starter...

here's a similar one that has more amps:
ECI Power 12V 50Ah Lithium LiFePO4 is $230.

this would be a great topic for its own thread. I was just looking at anti-gravity and a bunch of other brands and I'm concerned about charge cycles. it seems like these Lion batteries aren't meant to stay topped off. but I think just like a phone battery, if you keep it plugged in all the time that shortens its life. but you also shouldn't let it go completely full or completely dead.

 

Stock battery is 650 cranking amps, so the NOCO is actually higher. The 8ah is the capacity, meaning how many times you can crank it before it dies. Yes, it's much less than stock battery, but also the ah is calculated different so that 8 ah for lithium is equivalent to something like 20 ah for regular battery. Unless your car takes a while to start I'd say it's fine. Just don't use accessories when the engine is off.
Can you link the one you found?
If it's this one, it's only capable of 100 cranking amps, which I doubt is enough to turn over a V6.
ECI Power 12V 50Ah Lithium LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Rechargeable Battery
https://a.co/d/fHrdHhg

 

You will need way more than 100 to start the Z. Id get something in the 500 range at least.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ad...goryID=BATTERY

heres a good list. where I got mine

 

Yes, that was the one. good capacity just pour cranking amps now that I know where to look for that value....