looks like there's a $290 anti-gravity battery with 680 CCA. I don't think this is a good choice for a street/track car like mine. because it shuts itself off if there's any parasitic draw, like a radio clock. and it would be hell trying to get this thing through smog every two years with it turning off every few hours resetting the ECU.

 

I think it's safe to say, unless you drive the car frequently enough to keep the battery charged or you have a cut-off switch to prevent draw, lithium batteries are not a good choice for a daily driver. I'm still trying to decide between the Antigravity and NOCO batteries.

 

Looks like my decision was made for me. I contacted NOCO to see if they had any issues with running their batteries in racing applications and the response I got was completely dismissive of the idea. I guess Antigravity it is, at least they acknowledge racing uses.

 

thats odd, I would stick with the brands on the pegasus racing site.

 

ATX20 installed. Had to add rails inside the battery tray to hold the smaller battery in place and extend the stock top mount down to hold it from the top. Also had to replace the inline fuse that's a memory for my gauges, the existing fuse was completely corroded inside by the battery acid. Haven't tried starting the car yet, gonna wait til it's ready to roll out of the garage, but otherwise all looks good.

 

nice choice! looks great

 

Z1 2 piece rotors showed up. They are indeed 10 lbs lighter than the stock rotors, 20 lbs each vs 30 lbs. Got them installed and I noticed that with the brake cooling in place the inside pad is wearing less, but the outside pad is still wearing about the same. Makes sense since the airflow is only on the inside surface of the rotor. I'm hoping the extra holes in the hats of the 2 piece rotors will allow some extra cooling on the outside as well. The 2 piece rotors vanes are slanted as well which should cool better. As a result the right and left rotor are different so both slants are in the same direction.

 

New weight with half tank of gas (about 60lbs worth), without driver, so weight without fuel would be right under 2900 lbs.

 

awesome, the battery and rotors made a big difference. I think I shed about 15 lb per wheel with the Konigs. 2900 is about the weight of a Boxster / Cayman. you know, there are oddities with the 350Z. why did they use a CF drive shaft and then put in a 75 lb rear hatch? it's not about structure. that GD hatch is a nuisance. have you ever tried to lift it without the hydraulic struts? JFC...

I've been looking at bash bars for the front / rear. My main interest is jack points. I don't think there's much weight savings from the aluminum box bumpers but I would like to be able to jack up both F/R right under the bumpers to install wheel cribs. I should probably buy a quick jack. The MaxJax is a bit of a problem because idk if my garage floor is thick enough and I don't want to pour for the mounts because the garage has a low ceiling anyway.

 

nice dude, under 3000 is awsome. thats my goal. I literally just pulled the rear hatch off the Z, your right it is heavy AF! The wife had to help me and was bitching haha. Im gonna weigh them both and get a exact weight savings. plastics4performace is backordered like 2 months so I'll be waiting. Any clue how much the oem hatch is worth?

 

Yup, I pulled mine off by myself and it wasn't easy. I was just glad to get it out of my garage so I think I let it go for $170 iirc.

The company that made my wing mount also make tubular bash bars without wing mounts, and you can get them with built in jack points and tow hooks. Look up street faction engineering

I do need to redo corner balance at some point, with me in the car the cross ratio is now at 50.8%, needs to be closer to 50%.
.

 

I can imagine it's hard to corner balance with the driver on the left. hadn't thought about that before! so you reduce as much weight everywhere as possible and then add ballast on the right side? The battery would have contributed. it's really interesting that you've gotten your car that well balanced already.

 

Corner balancing is not about getting left and right side the same or front and back the same. Adding ballast would do that but the net result would be too heavy. The idea is to cross balance, meaning the left front/right rear combined weight is the same as right front/left rear weight. This results is optimal handling without additional weight. And while shifting weight from side to side or front to back is difficult, shifting weight from one corner to other 3 corners is as easy as adjusting the ride height on that corner. Just a bit of height change can have dramatic effect on single corner weight.

 

@Dr Hoon I might have missed it if you mention this, but doing research on differentials now, did you go with a 1.5 or a 2-way? is it just a drivability issue? I love the sound of a two-way in track videos but idk if that's very drivable off track. I'm still about 2 years away from a trailer. my car probably will end up full track but until then I have to still drive it to events.

 

I went with a 1.5 way. There is no advantage of 2 way on the track unless you're doing drifting. The 1.5 way does wheel skipsle when when it's cold. Once hot, when I come off track the lockup is much softer. If you want a streetable 1.5 way you can always reduce the number of clutch discs installed to reduce lockups.

 

Kinda OT, but I had to do some work on the Excursion recently to get it back in shape. Recently it received a new fuel sender/pickup tube, new mirrors, a new windshield and new tires all around, since then I discovered that the windshield installer damaged the cowl under the windshield, so for it's 20th birthday it got a new cowl, new wiper arms, new wipers and also new headlights since the old ones were all cracked and yellowed. Still need to attach the LED DRL power to switched 12V somewhere, but overall it's looking pretty good for it's age.

 

cool rig! that one probably has the diesel rather than the dreaded 5.4 3V?
I need to get an old truck myself. been shopping for a car trailer. or more accurately, planning my future budget for one.... I decided I will just park it in storage since there's no room for one at home and that's been the holdup.

 

Yup, 6L diesel. It hasn't been exactly what I would call "trouble free" but when it runs it's great. Plenty of torque for pulling my enclosed and still get 12 mpg. Everywhere I go I get hit up by people wanting to buy it lol. Just not really compatible with drive-thrus, way too loud at idle. My wife says it sounds like a school bus

 

Lookin good, I have a question on your diff cooler. I just picked up the Z1 kit and a temp sensor. how did you wire yours up? I got a relay kit, just need to figure out how to series in the temp switch.

 

I don't have a temp sensor. I just wired it to a switch. I turn it on before the second session each day, once everything is up to temp.
from what I recall the Z1 diff cover has a blank for the temp sensor that has to be drilled and tapped.