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The top speed at infinion / Sonoma is about 100 for our kinds of cars. Even NASCAR cars can't get up to 160. Laguna Seca is only 2.24 mi long. I've never gotten into 5th gear at Sonoma. If you time it just right at turn 10, you can just hit 100 before standing on the brake pedal. I haven't been down south to Willow springs or buttonwillow. The latter is 3.1 mi so it might be a little better but it's laid out like a box so building up speed? not so much.
Yeah, you need a nice long straight to get into 5th with the stock rear diff gearing. I just checked my data and I was actually hitting 136 a couple times, but that's still inline with my top speeds from a year ago.
That's an awesome speed. I've only gotten into the 140s in the Cayman, never close to that in the Z. I'll be putting the 4.09 in the rear diff when I ship it to Z1. really looking forward to that.
(actually I need to disclaim this: 140 on a back road highway, not on a race track)
Went ahead and ordered ISR LTHs and a tune from misformance. That along with the solid engine mounts will be my winter project. I decided to go with their tune mostly because they are just 1 hr sound of VIR, so if I have issues with the tune I'll just go straight to their dyno from VIR and get it adjusted.
It's going to be a long winter. I miss the track already lol. In the meantime here's one more session from VIR, my last session on Sunday, combined black and red with at least 80 cars on the track. I had to cut it short to ride with my student in the following session, but still managed to get a few good laps in there.
👍🏁
I'm already enjoying the cold weather. I've got the Mustang in the third garage Bay now, replacing the calipers and lines. I have a girlfriend who's going to borrow the car which is just as well because it's been sitting neglected in the driveway for most of the year. I have a lot of work to do on the Z so I decided to wait on the NIS tune because I wouldn't be able to test it with the new parts for a while.
Trying to finalize the tune specs. I'd like to bump the rev limiter up a bit since there are segments at both Summit and VIR where I'm just fast enough to ride the limiter but there's just not enough time to shift up and down.
Being an '06 rev up model, it's already 7000 rpm. Is it safe to set it at 7500? 7200?
I wouldn't but jmho with a DE. What do you think I should set as the redline? 6k feels plenty to me but then I spent a whole year with pulled timing and didn't know about it UNTIL I replaced the cam sensors. Holy ****, what a difference!
Also, I spoke with the tuner guy at NIS, and if you add it to the request, he will include "no-lift shifting" in the tune.
Your '04 has stock redline of 6500 RPM iirc, my '06 rev up has stock redline of 7000 RPM due to the adjustable exhaust cam. But with the Kinetix intake the car now pulls hard all the way to the redline, so additional 500 RPM would definitely still be usable.
I'll have to look into the no-lift shifting option. How exactly does that work?
Really, 6500? I thought it was just 6K. That's interesting. I can only guess that the no-lift/flat foot option looks at the clutch pedal to rev match w/o heel-toe.
Pretty sure it's either 6500 or 6600 for the non rev up DE engines. But it does start to bog down around 6200 RPM with the stock intake manifold, so it does feel lower than it actually is.
I found this description of flat-foot shifting
Once the engine is up to temp, you are over 20 mph, and the engine speed is above 3000rpms, you can activate Flat-foot shifting. Once these requirements have been met, be sure to press the gas all the way down and when you’re ready to shift, push in the clutch while the gas pedal is still completely depressed. At this point a rev limiter will be set at the RPM you began to push the clutch in. Once this happens shift into the next gear (while still holding the gas all the way down) and then remove your foot from the clutch pedal.
From this I don't see how it's useful on the track. Since it requires WOT to activate, it can only be used for up-shifts and it doesn't try to rev-match, it simply holds your RPM static while the clutch is depressed. So you might get a a few ms from not having the release and re-apply the throttle, but this comes at the expense of driveline shock by engaging next gear at the same RPM you left lower gear in. For track duty, that's more often than not redline. So I'm in 3rd, get to 7000RPM, hold 7000rpm while shifting to 4th and then 4th gets engaged at 7000RPM instead of rev-matched 5500RPM or so, causing extra work for the syncros and extra wear on the driveline components.
It's bad enough that shifting with stock flywheel holds the RPMs high too long as is, so when I go to engage next gear it's still too high. This would make the whole situation even worse. No thanks.
Spent some time today with a buddy installing the solid engine mounts and the long tube headers. All in all it's fairly straight forward if you're doing both. Doing the engine mounts without removing the exhaust manifolds is a nightmare at best.
The ISR LTHs move the primary O2 sensors way down the tube, so the stock o2 harness won't reach. I haven't been able to find any ready made extension harness for them. They are 6 pin connectors. I guess I'll have to extend them myself.
I stopped before putting all the header nuts back on. Not sure if I should use threadlock here, and which one? I might contact ISR Monday and see what their recommendation is.
Now I've got a bunch of parts to get rid of again. If anyone wants the Z1 test pipes or any of the oem parts lemme know.
NISformance has the ISR extensions, in theory. idk if they're in stock. unless that's only for HR. pretty sure i saw DE extensions. but for $100, i was planning on extending them myself.
Test fired the Z today with the new engine mounts, heades and extended O2 sensor harnesses. I can definitely tell the solid engine mounts at low RPMs the vibrations are pronounced, but mostly go away at higher revs. Not much sound change considering I had test pipes before already. Happy to see no codes from the extended O2 sensors, seem to work fine as before.
I also rebuilt the front akebono calipers with Nissan rebuild kit, hopefully the better quality seals will last longer than the junk they use when the calipers are rebuilt.
Gonna test drive it tomorrow around the neighborhood and put it away until first track event probably in March.
