This is going to be my first year autocrossing and I was looking into getting some sway bars to reduce understeer. If i'm not mistaken (please correct me if so), only the front sway bar can be changed to remain in BS. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations for a good sway bar?

I was thinking of gettting a set of Hotchkis and just keeping the rear bar uninstalled. Any opinions on this?

 

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....5&pagenumber=2

 

Thanks. I'm not exactly sure what "higher" compression/rebound means though. Can you explain that?

 

dunno, just saw them talking about it and gave you the link

 

You are correct that only the front sway can changed.

I think both the Hotchkiss and 350Evo are good choices. It would be nice if you could buy only the front, and maybe either of those companies would be willing if you explained the situation.

I also plan on buying a front sway, but I'm not sure which yet. I am leaning toward the Hotchkiss because they are lighter and less expensive, but if 350Evo is willing to put together an "AutoX" special of the front sway with the Koni shocks, then maybe I'll go for that. At the same time, I'm trying to save for a C6 Z06 vette (got a few years to go) so I may not change the Z.

Also, remember that race tires will make a huge difference (and can help reduce understeer if you use the same size tire all around), as will driving style. Because the Z understeers a bit, it can be very helpful to slow down a bit early and then try to get on the gas as you enter a corner, so you can use the throttle to help rotate the car through the corner. I've had this help me on occasion, but I still notice that the Z isn't as well balanced as some other cars.

-D'oh!

 

Try a 5-6# differrential in tire pressure( more up front), save your money before buying a sway and spend it on a driving school. Like someone said, slow a little early, then throttle steer. The Z is a very forgiving car, just needs the correct inputs.

 

I have autocrossed my Z twice and I have noticed different handling from what everyone else says. So far my car is stock and I thought that the 225s up front and the 245s in the back would cause it to understeer. I have noticed the opposite. My car is neutral except for fast sweepers where oversteer comes into play. It may just be the old asphalt that I have autocross on (WWII vintage). I have been autocrossing for a little more than 4 years. I have autocrossed rear wheel drive (95 M3 & 96 Miata) and front wheel drive (Integra GS-R, Contour SVT, & 91 Sentra SE-R) so I have some experience. I was planning on getting some 245 Falken Azenis for all corners, but I am not sure if this would be better than a staggered setup. I have to run about 6-8 psi lower in the back tires to compensate for the oversteer. Has anyone else experienced anything similar to this in their Zs.

 

BJ (dwnshift) agreed to sell 350evo front separate to me. I don't see why he woulnd't sell to you guys.

 

Now, can swaybar be installed using stands only? Can I do it in my garage with only basic knowledges?

What about shocks (Koni)? Can those be installed without help?

 

There is a lot of differant things that need to be done to get the bar in and out, best would be a friendly Pep Boys dude with a lift. It can be done at home, just will take longer. Cost me about 25 bucks at PB, vs along time rolling on cement.
I did a Borla install at home, only took me a week to recover, think I still got bruises.

 

Whoops, Just saw the shock question. Shocks are a MAJOR pain ITB! Back is not too hard, front is a major project. Have to take the shock tower brace off, then take most of the front end apart, then need to have a couple brave souls to do the spring compression, then put it all back together. The front steering stuff is a MAJOR pain in the A##, both ways in and out. The result is a real nice time drop though, so you wil forget about all the bruises, cuts, etc.
When you do the back, undo the top first, push down and hold it with wire while at the same time try to break the bottom loose, they used about 10,000# torque on the bottom nut/bolt

 

Dang, Be sure to reload the strut tower brace when you put it back on

 

Seems like too much for me. I better find some shop to do it.

Also when quoting me installation in 350evo shop, BJ mentioned aligment. Is wheel aligment really necessary about shocks installation? What I really mean is the alignment can be screwed up after installation?

 

Most definitely need an alignment after a shock or spring install.

 

No, Mine was fine.(alignment question)

 

I just replaced struts on a non-Z, and the alignment was totally out. Tires are expensive enough that the risk of uneven wear would make me align the suspension on springs/shock changes.

 

I of course didn't have a strut tower brace to deal with, but you can make the front shock install on these cars extreamly complicated or actually rather easy. All I did was disconect the end link to the sway bar and I was able to remove the spring/shock assembly without a spring compressor. Now my oem sedan spring/shock is taller and that did require a spring compressor to get out of the car.

BTW, I WANT YOUR SHOCKS Lucky you.