For a PDF of this procedure, PM me.

This procedure may seem like too much detail but I wanted to cover all options and mistakes I made. Posting limitations forced me to break it up into 3 parts.
Each part has a link to the next part at the end.

The process is roughly 3 hours and does not cover installing lighted side reflectors.

Be careful with headlight housings, lenses and bulbs. Its easy to get sealant or debris in places where you don’t want it.

Reading through this procedure before starting is suggested.

The author does not assume any responsibility for the results of using this procedure.

Materials:
Chrome covered turn signal bulbs. on e-bay for $10 / pair + shipping. Use “350Z Silver Chrome Signal” as your search criteria
Clear Side Reflectors for the front bumper cover. $50 / pair + shipping. Go to http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/350z04c
Pair of clear headlight diffuser strips. $55 / pair + shipping. Go to http://www.ricks2k.com/products/350zdiffusers.php
2 cloth hand towels or cloth work gloves.
A pair of soft bath towels.
19” x 16” piece of cardboard
Running water
Black roofing sealant (optional)

Tools:
#2 Phillips head screwdriver
Medium size flat blade screwdriver
3/8” drive socket wrench with 6” extension
¼” drive socket wrench with 3” extension
3/8” drive 10mm socket
¼” drive 10mm socket
Car jack
2 Jack stands
Stock or applicable lug wrench
Oven with internal dimensions of 19” deep by 24” wide
Razor blade or utility knife

1. Park the car with the parking brake engaged

2. Use the lug wrench to break loose the lug nuts on both front
wheels so you can remove the wheels after the car is jacked up.

3. Use the jack and jack stands to raise the front of the car off the ground enough to remove the wheels

4. Remove the front wheels

5. Pop and prop the hood open.

6. Using the 10 mm socket, remove the bolts along the entire front edge and front corners of the splash guard under the engine. Remove just the front bolts, the splash guard can stay in place for this procedure.

7. Using the flat blade screwdriver, remove the black plastic fasteners from the forward half of the wheel well splash guard.



8. Using the Phillips head screwdriver, remove the self starting screw that fastens the forward half of the wheel well splash guard to the fender



9. Remove the 3 bolts that fasten the splash guard to the bumper and the 2 bolt that fastens it to the underside of the car. One or two of these may have already been removed when you removed the bolts from the front edge of the splash guard under the engine.



10. Inspect and make note of how the splash guard needs to go back in. Pay particular attention to how the tabs work that hold the outside edge of the splash guard to the fender and how the this splash guard fits with the splash guard under the engine and the front bumper.

11. Pull the forward half of the wheel well splash guard off.

You will now have easy access to the back of the
headlight and the bolts that hold the front bumper cover on

12. Press the tip of the flat blade screwdriver against the release tab for the headlight wiring harness connector and pull down so the connectors separate.



13. Remove the 3 bolts that fasten the bumper cover to the fender (1 bolt) and the fender to the headlight (2 bolts).



14. Move to the other side and repeat steps 7 through 13
You are now ready to remove the bumper cover

15. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the 6 black fasteners along the top of the bumper cover. Do not try to pull the fasteners all the way up when removing. This causes the socket piece of the fastener to expand too much for removal. Pull the peg piece up about 1/3 of the way and the fasteners should come out easy.



16. Remove the bumper cover by pulling it straight out. Be careful not to set the bumper cover on its face as this may result in blemishes or scratches.

17. With the bumper cover now off, replace the amber side markers with the clear ones using the Phillips head screwdriver



18. Remove the black foam piece from the bumper. No fasteners, just a couple of protrusions in the back that line up with holes in the bumper. Pull by one end first.



19. Use the 10mm socket to remove the 3 bolts and pull the headlight straight out.







20. Remove the other headlight

21. Take the screwdrivers and your headlights inside to continue.

22. Remove any items from the oven and set the shelf low enough to accommodate your headlight.

23. Set your oven for 250 degrees. While the oven is heating up, prepare your first headlight.

24. Fold one of the bath towels and lay it on your work surface or on your lap.

25.Remove the grey dust cap in back of the housing by turning it 1/8 of a turn to the left. Use the larger tabs to turn and pull it off. If you have trouble try using the flat blade to pry it off. If it will not come off when prying, move it left or right a bit and try again.



26. Disconnect the wires from the halogen bulbs, release the clips and pull the bulbs out. Don’t touch the glass of the bulbs, use the base or the connectors. No need to remove the clips, they should release and turn freely.







27. Pull the wiring harness weather seal and wiring harness out. You may have to jiggle the larger connector to get it out but it will come out.



28. Remove the other bulbs by turning their connectors a quarter turn to the left.





29. “Walk” the main connector off of its mount. Exert enough force to get if off but not enough to break it. Does not have a clip, just a snug fit.



30. Pull the amber bulb out of its socket and replace with a chrome covered bulb. Press the new bulb into the socket until it snaps in. Wipe it the bulb off with a dry cloth. Set the wiring harness aside.

31. Remove the 5 screws that hold the lens to the housing.

NOTE: Figure how you will work with the headlight BEFORE you heat it. Inspect the headlight. Notice the tabs along the edges. While hot, you will pull these back to clear the matching bumps before pulling the lens off the housing. Notice how closely the top of the lens and the housing come together.

For practice, put the top end of the headlight in your lap with the lens facing to your left. This is good for pulling the pieces apart with leverage for both hands. Plan to grip the bottom of the lens with your left hand and the tabs on the housing where the mounting bolts go with your right.



You have limited time before the sealant cools so get this figured ahead of time. Use a folded towel on your lap as a heat shield when doing this for real with a hot headlight.

Have a place where you will put the separated pieces. The lens must be placed face down when separated. The sealant along the edge will still be sticky, it will adhere to whatever surface it touches or whatever touches it.

You are now ready to bake your first headlight. Proceed to Part II - https://my350z.com/forum/body-interior-exterior-and-lighting-diy/360319-amber-removal-for-03-05-front-end-part-2-a.html

 

Thanks for that pic. I couldn't see where the latch is & didn't want to break my 9 year old connectors. Completed a headlight swap in about 3 hours including a search for this tidbit of info.