It must be the aluminum spindles. With iron spindles ball joints are guaranteed stuck and removing them often requires replacement!!!

Quick replies on such an old thread. Thanks guys!!!!

 

Would it be recommended to change out the outer bushing holding the strut as well?

 

makes sense since it's on the same arm. While they aren't as prone to going bad as inners, they do go bad, and will cause noise and general sloppiness

 

Old post but thanks for the info. Guess I'lll be deleting my WTB thread. Good thing I found a guy with a sedan selling his.

Question I have (and I hope nobody asked because I didn't look through all 6 pages), but what's the primary reason for these going out? Would "extreme" (-5.5) camber or stiff suspension add to the early failure?

I plan on replacing the entire arm rather than just the bushing, but I have no idea how long I've been driving with the bushing busted. Probably will be driving another couple of weeks like this. I know it's affecting my alignment, but driving like this, would it cause any wear to parts other than the lower control arm?

 

Those can possibly add to early failure, but the primary reason that they fail is braking loads......when you brake, the force acts 90 degrees straight back and that bushing transmits it all back into the car.......the oem bushing has a very small contact patch inside the arm....

thats a horrible idea...again, the contact patch of the oem bushing, its just another matter of time that it happens again...the whitelines are a big improvement over the oem bushing...

see here:
Oem bushing contact patch inside the race of the arm is not full circumference and only half the width of the metal race:


Whiteline bushing is the entire width of the arm and all the way around!:



well, if you have oem upper arms, etc, then your putting more load on those upper bushings, etc..more stretch, etc...

the worst part is the translink moving forward and aft on that torn bushing and getting the aluminum arm edge worn down from making contact with the steel K member.

like shown here:

Pic of metal wear after only 3 weeks of driving with a bad bushing...
take from here - https://my350z.com/forum/8101704-post68.html

-J

 

OP, I just bought this particular set of bushings to try. Do they squeak?

Quite pleasingly, I hear almost no complaints of squeaks about poly bushings on the Z33.

 

^ dont squeak...

-J

 

yea they dont make a sound. i had a full set of energy bushings on my civic and it sounded like i had birds living in my wheel wells lol

 

Awesome!!!

I have full SPL bushings on my track car. But for my daily driven G, I decided to go with the cheaper Whiteline bushings. Just after I oredered them I got worried they would make squeaky sounds.

 

Jason, would you consider lending these custom sockets for shipping expenses??

And then I would send it back to you or to the next person who need to use them??? The right size socket is almost impossible to obtain.

 

Just got both of mine out.

Need to replace the passenger side bolt/nut since it was a pita to get out. Figure 85k miles and the factory tq spec...was on there tight.

I did not remove my LCA completely. What I did was just remove the LCA bolt and sway bar bolt and jacked the tire up which pivoted the lca down. I rented a bushing removal tool from advance pressed the bushings out. Waiting on the new whitelines to show up and press them back in.

franken socket available?

 

For those wanting to do just the inner bushing with the arm still on the car, rent this:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...zoneAssigned=1

Has everything needed except a 29mm socket. Remove the bolt from the inner bushing and sway bar endlinks only. Works like a champ. Just got mine all pressed back in.

 

J- Whats the difference between the whiteline and energy bushing? I bought one from one of the Vendor here. I did not see any race/metal bushing like the ones from whiteline.

i'll post pics...


as you can see, there are no metal sleeve on the middle (race?)all polyurethane. I dont know if whiteline has no race sleeve in the middle.

Im doing my LCA and Compression Arm this week. Is this ok?, By the way, I sent you a PM asking to borrow the frankensocket for the LCA and Compression Arm...

-C

 

,,,,

 

I know this is an old thread, but i am just now getting to mine, and on Harborfreight.com they have a benchtop 6 ton press for 64 bucks, and they are also having a 25% off 4th of july one day discount on anything which brings it down to 48 a bucks!

cant beat that for a 6 ton press

 

I too in the process of replacing both of my bushings on the transverse link just replaced the ball joint last week well it pulled to the right like crazy checked it out and the bushing on the drivers sise had failed. I am going to rent the tool to press them out but need to rent that tool to press it back in would someone help?

How do you press them back in whitle the transverse unit is still connected to the car? newbie been reading


email me or pm

ilive4msubulldogs at yahoo dot com

 

I need a franken socket please assist

 

^^ Just remove the translink from the car.........its not hard and makes the press job so much easier...

i gave the dimensions of the steel pipe diameter needed to make a frank socket.....your best bet is to just call up your local steel supply and have them cut you a piece for small cash, no reciept type deal.......

from there with your translinks OFF the car, hand carry them into any local mom and pop shop with a press..........hand them the peice of pipe and the translinks and pay cash for them to press out the bushings and in the new...

-J

 

What are the symptoms of a worn transverse link bushing?

 

The best thing to do is to monitor this bushing....if your car is on factory shocks and springs or factory shocks and just lowering springs your suspension won't be sensitive enough to notice....

I have coilovers and my car would dance hitting bumps on the highway.....the steering wheel would have play and the car would "wiggle" going down the road....

-J