DIY - Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement - Translink - Page 8 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 01-10-2012, 04:05 PM   #141
JasonZ-YA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fexplosiong View Post
Thank you for your opinion, I should be knocking this out on sunday

Thanks for the great write up!
post pics.....
-J
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:49 PM   #142
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ahhhhh muuuuuch better
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DIY - Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement - Translink-new-bush.jpg  
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:09 PM   #143
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Had to do my compression rod bushings so I did these while I was at it. Definitely notice a firmer feel up front. Mine were still good but did have a little sag to them. Pressing them out was cake, but had issues getting them to go in straight.
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:18 PM   #144
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sorry crappy pic..

1 1/8" socket works also
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:49 AM   #145
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anybody have the spl bushing kit in there control arms?, if so how are they holding up and how do they feel, ordered mine today, going in next week.
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:36 PM   #146
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I was thinking about doing the energy suspension bushing in this spot which is a 2 piece. Anyone have one of these and can make a comment on quality?

Also was wondering about the outer sleeve from the stock bushing when installing the energy bushing as it does not seem to come with its own outer metal sleeve. Do you just remove and run without it? Seems like installation will be much easier also.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:36 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow03z View Post
I was thinking about doing the energy suspension bushing in this spot which is a 2 piece. Anyone have one of these and can make a comment on quality?

Also was wondering about the outer sleeve from the stock bushing when installing the energy bushing as it does not seem to come with its own outer metal sleeve. Do you just remove and run without it? Seems like installation will be much easier also.
I'm running the ES bushings everywhere except the compression arm and diff mounts (Spl there). I ran the front 1st and it made a significant difference in tightening up the front end. And yes the 3 piece bushings ( 2 urethane halfs and metal sleeve) are very easy to instal with some all thread and washers. Just make sure to grease the sides of the bushings and mating surfaces for a squeek free install.

If you want a major improvement do the rear bushings and subframe mounts. Replacement of the eliminated any wheel hop wet or dry. It's definetly a pain but worth it IMO. I'm still running oem 54k mile shocks and springs as well.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:56 AM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ian99rt View Post
I'm running the ES bushings everywhere except the compression arm and diff mounts (Spl there). I ran the front 1st and it made a significant difference in tightening up the front end. And yes the 3 piece bushings ( 2 urethane halfs and metal sleeve) are very easy to instal with some all thread and washers. Just make sure to grease the sides of the bushings and mating surfaces for a squeek free install.
Great! thanks that was what I wanted to hear.

So you just disregard that outer metal sleeve that the stock and whiteline bushings use?
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:00 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow03z View Post
Great! thanks that was what I wanted to hear.

So you just disregard that outer metal sleeve that the stock and whiteline bushings use?
With the ES bushings you don't reuse any part of the oem bushings. No outer metal sleeves, just bushing on aluminum of arm.

Last edited by ian99rt; 04-11-2012 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:56 PM   #150
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Does anyone have thw frankenstain socket available?
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:01 AM   #151
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I was wondering if it's possible to press the bushings in without F-Socket by having a metal plate sit on top of polyurethane bushing and press it it. (I believe the purpose of F-socket was to push the metal sleeve only however I think I saw a photo in this thread that one member pushed it in by pressing on the polyurethane part.) Did anybody try it? Does the bushing slide from the sleeve? and does it damage the bushing in anyway? I'm thinking about going to a shop to put these in, however I doubt that they will use F-Socket and guess they might just press it from the top. Let me know what you guys think! thanks.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:04 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AcidJake75 View Post
Look Familiar?






A pic of metal to metal wear since I had to drive it like this for over 3 wks..


Old CRAPTASTIC OEM Bushing


Getting that hoe bag out






New one installed - if you cant tell Im a happy camper





DONE

Win for this DIY since I believe the whole arm costs like 200 bucks.. I got the bushings for 50 bucks (give or take) and labor was all me..

THX AGAIN Z-YA!
Yes, this is what I was talking about below. So Did you take the sleeve out from the bushing first then press the sleeve in then press the polyurethane in? Seems you don't really need F-Socket using this way.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:09 AM   #153
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dude, that is acid jakes install, you can NOT press just the polyurethane in...

you dont need to weld a franksocket but you do Need a metal pipe that fits and connects to the outer race of the whileine bushing and a metal plate across the metal pipe to push the bushing in by attaching to the metal outer race of the whiteline bushings.

if you do what your suggesting - putting a plate across the poly - you will just rib the poly right off its own outer race..

the pics posted in the post above me dont show the f-socket jake used to press the bushing into the translink.....

-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 07-19-2012 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:19 AM   #154
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read post 6:
https://my350z.com/forum/7852215-post6.html

and omit the welding, just slap a plate across the steel tube that pushes the outer race of the bushing into place..
-J
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:30 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post
dude, that is acid jakes install, you can NOT press just the polyurethane in...

you dont need to weld a franksocket but you do Need a metal pipe that fits and connects to the outer race of the whileine bushing and a metal plate across the metal pipe to push the bushing in by attaching to the metal outer race of the whiteline bushings.

if you do what your suggesting - putting a plate across the poly - you will just rib the poly right off its own outer race..

the pics posted in the post above me dont show the f-socket jake used to press the bushing into the translink.....

-J
Wow, thank you for quick reply, I thought the 6th photo in Jake's post was poly but by looking at it closely I guess it was 29mm socket he used to push it out. (Also it said "Getting that hoe bag out".) Gotta fabricate F-Socket now..thanks for clarification!
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:33 AM   #156
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^ ya man, any local metal yard or even a neighborhood welder will have a piece of 2 inch OD with .25 inch wall steel pipe laying around. That will result in a 1.5" Inner diameter working piece.

have them cut it to a 1-1/2 inch long segment and then slap any thick steel plate across it and press away.

I welded mine together to be a quick shop tool.....i have installed i swear about 30 of these whiteline bushings on peoples 350z's...


-J
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:58 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post

I welded mine together to be a quick shop tool.....i have installed i swear about 30 of these whiteline bushings on peoples 350z's...


-J
lol, i ran across this pic...and these are the oem bushings i saved for whatever reason.....


-J
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:37 AM   #158
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JasonZ - thanks for an awesome write-up!

I'm getting into auto mechanics, and learning my way around a 350Z, so these how-to threads are incredibly useful. I learned a couple things in the process of replacing my lower control arm yesterday - hopefully no more creaking and grinding . Had a couple questions that might help other newbies to the process...

I had a heck of a time removing the bolt holding the sway bar connecting rod to the control arm (location #3), until I got a jack under the control arm and cranked it up to take the load off the bolt. I'm realizing now that this is probably because I only had one side of the car on a stand, so the sway bar was loaded by the wheel on the ground on the other side. Does this make sense - should both sides be jacked up to make this easier?

The ball joint (location #1) caused me some grief, because the bolt in the ball joint just spins when I turn the (somewhat corroded) nut on the top. I ended up getting it off by disconnecting the rest of the control arm and hauling down on the joint to make it bind while turning the nut. But it leaked some grease out of the boot, and I fear I damaged the ball joint in the process. How do you best keep the bolt from spinning when you take that nut off?
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:16 AM   #159
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Anyone in SoCal that can help me out or know anyone that can do it I have the same problem on my g35
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:01 PM   #160
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The rear bushing is pushed out with 29mm socket, what mm is the front one pushed out with?
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1996, 2003, 350z, arm, avenger, bar, bushing, bushings, control, diy, g35, g35driver, lca, lower, nissan, rear, removal, replaements, tracking, work

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