IF YOUR COMPRESSION ARM BUSHING IS SEIZED, here is what I did with good success:

- Pop the ball joint side of the arm out first, impact works well.
- Twist the compression arm, tearing the bushing so that you are only left with the torn bushing on the stud.
- Load it up with PB blaster
- Grip the bushing with a 12-18" pipe wrench and twist it off.

This worked for me in seconds after struggling with a pry bar for many hours. If you don't have a pipe wrench, buy one, it's useful for many things (such as adjusting the height of my seized coilovers).

 

I installed these whiteline bushings in April, how serious is this for it to tear in such little time? Could this indicate extra stress on that part? This is from the driver's side, passenger side has no tears whatsoever

 

those dont look like the whitelines???

whitelines have a metal sleeve that keeps the bolt and nut to torque against, it shouldnt squeeze the rubber of the bushings you have.........somethings not right?

can you take apart and take more pics?

-J

 

I have to agree with Jason. I installed Energy Suspension bushings and although it was a beast of a job, the bushings are pretty well made...

 

I don't have my press anymore, will try to get to that today or tomorrow.

 

So I took out the arm yesterday, i would press out but I don't have access to a press yet. It seems like the sleeve needs to stick out more from that side? What are your opinions so far Jason? Thank you in advance.

 

If I may respond... These bushings might be defective rubber or there may be some unexplained load bearing pressure that has been applied to make this bushing split. I would press them out and return to the supplier for a refund. Either get replacement from that supplier or try another type. I installed Energy Suspension bushings and they appear to be holding up pretty well with a very smooth ride.. It's just my 2 cents worth...

 

I appreciate your input, yeah I have whiteline bushings for the inner LCA

 

Sorry accidentaly pushed send before finishing. I have Whiteline for the inner LCA and compression rod bushings. They are all holding up pretty well and ride great, this bushing along with the drive side compression arm bushing were pressed by a shop whom I felt uneasy about. Reason for that is the compression arm was new and the bushing pressed in before it was installed on the car.

For this bushing, well someone did me the favor to take it to get pressed while I was at work. Turned out to be the same place. I should check that on my next day off. Appreciate the help guys.

 

Anyone have the Frankensocket?

 

I just did my translink bushings 5 weeks ago. I used a hole saw on my drill to take out the bushing, then scored the bushing race and punched it out with a hammer and drift pin.

 

I replaced my inner and shock bushings today on the LCA. I bought this bushing removal/installation kit of ebay. It made removing and installing the bushings very easy.

I replaced the old bushings with whiteline bushings. Just did my first test drive - the car drove fine. It was wandering intermittently and sometimes felt like I was driving a knuckleball on the old bushings. The new bushings seemed to straighten things out.

I also changed the compression rod bushing. I plan on changing the upper control arm bushings in the future. I might just buy some new coilovers and sway bars and change it all at once.

Thanks for the write up it really helped.

 

GENTS!

Make sure if you use Energy Bushings for the Shock strut mounts...

YOU GRIND DOWN THE NIPPLES ON THE SHOCK STRUT MOUNTS!

I forgot to do this and it tore my bushings apart!

 

Damn, I didnt know about grinding down the nipples on the shock strut mounts! Thanks for the info.

 

So I was under my car last night and found a bad bushing. I am in no way a suspension guy and do not like working around springs. Ive read the post and the FSM. i see no spring compressors listed. Is there pressure on the Translink? Do you need to compress these in anyway shape or form? I'd be lying if I said i wasn't a little scurred. Hence my question. Not scared of the work. Just scarred of being impaled followed by death

 

^^Its okay, I figured it out. Also wanted to add my input. Attached is what I came up with in 10 minutes at Lowes. Although the press at the hobby shop on base was junk the tool worked perfectly, and I managed to get the job done. Spent 10 bucks for the fittings and 4 bucks for the use of the press.

 

Hello,
Does anyone know the difference between the 2003/4 passenger side Transverse link part number 54500-AM601 and the 2005-2008 passenger side Transverse link part number 54500-AM602?

 

Doesn't look like there's any difference at all - They probably just revised and replaced it with the newer AM602.

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts...agram=401_A001

 

Thanks for the reply pfregeolle. I feel as though there shouldn't be a difference, but your link brought me to the front suspension of the 2006 model with part number AM602. When I use your link to look up the same part for a 2003 I get part number AM601. Hopefully it's a better revision and works with no issues. Ordered the part before realizing the differences.

 

They appear to be identical - Usually when it's almost the exact same part # just up by one digit, it's a part revision. I'd be surprised if they were different at all.