How-to: Change Brake Pads
01-25-2004, 08:15 AM
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How-to: Change Brake Pads
Someone mentioned they wanted a step by step guide with a few more pictures than that on the ZChickz website so as long as I was changing mine, I snapped a few and figured I'd write it up for the beginners out there. This will allow you to change the front brake pads. I haven't done the rears yet, but will in the not too distant future.
Items needed:
Brake Pads
Jack (can use one included with car)
14mm wrench or 14mm socket/wrench
21mm socket
Torque Wrench
Large'ish C-Clamp
Things to make the job go easier
Electrical tape (to wrap socket in)
1/2" drive 21mm socket
1/2" drive breaker bar
2" long 1/2" drive extender
1/2" drive torque wrench
Roll around floor jack
Trolley jack block from JC Whitney
Large'ish C-Clamp
OK, now onto the actual stuff:
1) Make sure the car is on a level surface before beginning
2) Put on the emergency brake
3) Wrap the socket in electrical tape to keep from scratching the inside of the lug nut wells. (shown is what comes with the car since I couldn't find my extender until I'd already removed the first wheel).
4) Break the lug nuts loose while the car is still on the ground.
5) Look under the car and identify the proper jack point. It will have 2 small indentations in a rail running underneath the car about 1' to 1.5' behind the front wheel on each side (holy mother of god, could I wash up there please!
):
6) Jack up the car in the above location. The jack that comes with the car is suitable for this.
7) Now completely remove the lug nuts (be careful the tire doesn't fall off)
8) Remove the tire (if it hasn't fallen off)
9) You should now be staring at the brake rotor and caliper assembly (note mad photoshop skills)
10) On the back side of the caliper there will be 2 bolts as highlighted in the above photo. The picture below is of one of the two bolts, the other is identical but on the other end of the caliper.
11) Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the mount (they'll be tight so be careful when they break loose) using the 14mm socket or wrench:
12) Don't let the caliper dangle by the brake line. I simply rested it on the top of the rotor. (If you want to remove the rotor, there are 2 more bolts holding the caliper mount on. Remove those, and the rotor should fall off).
13) Remove the 2 old pads. I found the easiest method was to grab the wear tab and pull gently. They came right out with no real effort.
14) Optional step here. Transfer the small metal plates on the old pads to the new ones. As best as I can determine, these are for pads that don't have the wear tabs built into them. I'd recommend installing them since the Hawk HPS pads don't have the tabs on one of the pads on each side.
15) I installed the pad that came without the wear indicator on the rear side of the rotor since it was easier and the one with the indicator on the outside. Installing them the other way could be more useful since you will be able to visually see the pad without the indicator through the wheel without having to remove it for inspection. I get under my car alot, so....
16) Since the calipers auto-adjust to the wear of the pads, it will be necessary to compress the piston to fit over the new, wider pads. I use one of the old pads and a large C-clamp to do this. If the pads are especially worn, you may have to open the brake fluid resevoir under the hood and suck out some of the fluid as it backs up into the resevoir. Refill with appropriate fluid if necessary. Since my pads only had a couple thousand miles on them, this step wasn't necessary.
17) Reinstall the caliper and install the 2 bolts which were holding it on. Tighten with wrench very firmly. You may have to slide the portion on the other side of the caliper (the part with the rubber boot) back a little to get the caliper back on.
18) You're now done installing the caliper on one side of the car.
19) Put the tire back on and hand snug the lug nuts (I hold the tire with one hand and tighten with the other once snug).
20) Lower the car to the ground and tighten the lugs in a star pattern to 80 ft-lbs. Basically, once one is torqued, don't torque the one right next to it on either side. Example below:
Note the word of caution in step 11. If not heeded, you too may need the Mandaid. The crappy adhesive in the stock bandaid didn't work so I supercharged the little bastard with some elctrical tape.
Hope this helps any of you out there considering it. It took about 45 minutes from start to finish. I'd HIGHLY recommend cleaning your wheels inside and out while you have them off the car. I live in a new development and had about 8 lbs. of asphalt cinders stuck to the inside of the wheels.
Feedback is welcome. I have other pictures in case someone has questions about any of the other steps involved.
Items needed:
Brake Pads
Jack (can use one included with car)
14mm wrench or 14mm socket/wrench
21mm socket
Torque Wrench
Large'ish C-Clamp
Things to make the job go easier
Electrical tape (to wrap socket in)
1/2" drive 21mm socket
1/2" drive breaker bar
2" long 1/2" drive extender
1/2" drive torque wrench
Roll around floor jack
Trolley jack block from JC Whitney
Large'ish C-Clamp
OK, now onto the actual stuff:
1) Make sure the car is on a level surface before beginning
2) Put on the emergency brake
3) Wrap the socket in electrical tape to keep from scratching the inside of the lug nut wells. (shown is what comes with the car since I couldn't find my extender until I'd already removed the first wheel).
4) Break the lug nuts loose while the car is still on the ground.
5) Look under the car and identify the proper jack point. It will have 2 small indentations in a rail running underneath the car about 1' to 1.5' behind the front wheel on each side (holy mother of god, could I wash up there please!
):6) Jack up the car in the above location. The jack that comes with the car is suitable for this.
7) Now completely remove the lug nuts (be careful the tire doesn't fall off)
8) Remove the tire (if it hasn't fallen off)
9) You should now be staring at the brake rotor and caliper assembly (note mad photoshop skills)
10) On the back side of the caliper there will be 2 bolts as highlighted in the above photo. The picture below is of one of the two bolts, the other is identical but on the other end of the caliper.
11) Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the mount (they'll be tight so be careful when they break loose) using the 14mm socket or wrench:
12) Don't let the caliper dangle by the brake line. I simply rested it on the top of the rotor. (If you want to remove the rotor, there are 2 more bolts holding the caliper mount on. Remove those, and the rotor should fall off).
13) Remove the 2 old pads. I found the easiest method was to grab the wear tab and pull gently. They came right out with no real effort.
14) Optional step here. Transfer the small metal plates on the old pads to the new ones. As best as I can determine, these are for pads that don't have the wear tabs built into them. I'd recommend installing them since the Hawk HPS pads don't have the tabs on one of the pads on each side.
15) I installed the pad that came without the wear indicator on the rear side of the rotor since it was easier and the one with the indicator on the outside. Installing them the other way could be more useful since you will be able to visually see the pad without the indicator through the wheel without having to remove it for inspection. I get under my car alot, so....
16) Since the calipers auto-adjust to the wear of the pads, it will be necessary to compress the piston to fit over the new, wider pads. I use one of the old pads and a large C-clamp to do this. If the pads are especially worn, you may have to open the brake fluid resevoir under the hood and suck out some of the fluid as it backs up into the resevoir. Refill with appropriate fluid if necessary. Since my pads only had a couple thousand miles on them, this step wasn't necessary.
17) Reinstall the caliper and install the 2 bolts which were holding it on. Tighten with wrench very firmly. You may have to slide the portion on the other side of the caliper (the part with the rubber boot) back a little to get the caliper back on.
18) You're now done installing the caliper on one side of the car.
19) Put the tire back on and hand snug the lug nuts (I hold the tire with one hand and tighten with the other once snug).
20) Lower the car to the ground and tighten the lugs in a star pattern to 80 ft-lbs. Basically, once one is torqued, don't torque the one right next to it on either side. Example below:
Note the word of caution in step 11. If not heeded, you too may need the Mandaid. The crappy adhesive in the stock bandaid didn't work so I supercharged the little bastard with some elctrical tape.
Hope this helps any of you out there considering it. It took about 45 minutes from start to finish. I'd HIGHLY recommend cleaning your wheels inside and out while you have them off the car. I live in a new development and had about 8 lbs. of asphalt cinders stuck to the inside of the wheels.
Feedback is welcome. I have other pictures in case someone has questions about any of the other steps involved.
Last edited by HokieZ; 01-25-2004 at 08:18 AM.
01-25-2004, 12:38 PM
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I had Hawks on now for at least 5000 miles, by far less dust. But I do recommend putting some squeal stop on the back of the pads, they were driving me nuts at first.
01-25-2004, 12:47 PM
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I put them on for 2 reasons,
1) Hopefully less dust
2) Less intial bite when first hitting the pedal.
The stocks seemed to grab excessively when first struck and I had the impression of if I wanted to stop that hard, I would have hit the brakes harder in the first place. First impressions are they do in deed have less intial bite. Dust remains to be seen. We're forecasting 5-7" of snow, so it may be some time before I test that one out but others impressions have been favorable.
1) Hopefully less dust
2) Less intial bite when first hitting the pedal.
The stocks seemed to grab excessively when first struck and I had the impression of if I wanted to stop that hard, I would have hit the brakes harder in the first place. First impressions are they do in deed have less intial bite. Dust remains to be seen. We're forecasting 5-7" of snow, so it may be some time before I test that one out but others impressions have been favorable.
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01-25-2004, 02:28 PM
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HokieZ,
How would you rate this on the difficult chart 1-10 and 10 being the most difficult. Esp. for someone that never change brakes before.
BTW how many miles did you had before you had to change your front. I know it is base on your driving but just wondering.
How would you rate this on the difficult chart 1-10 and 10 being the most difficult. Esp. for someone that never change brakes before.
BTW how many miles did you had before you had to change your front. I know it is base on your driving but just wondering.
01-25-2004, 02:52 PM
#10
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and for those of you with BREMBOS you will find the change EVEN EASIER... as you do not have to un-bolt the caliper you just pull the clips and retainer pins - then slide the pads right out!
EASY AS CAKE!
Another reason the BREMBOS ROCK!
EASY AS CAKE!
Another reason the BREMBOS ROCK!
02-15-2008, 07:34 PM
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Nice Guide but quick question do the rotors need to be cut? When i had my Prelude every time my bro changed my brakes he always took my rotors to be cut does this also have to done when changing new brake pads?
Thanks for the info I'm going to start doing my own brakes
Thanks for the info I'm going to start doing my own brakes
04-08-2013, 08:17 PM
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