How-to: Change Brake Pads - Page 10 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 04-29-2007, 08:09 PM   #181
billp
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I found out that my front pads are 2mm and the back are 4mm, (at only 24K) (Supposed to have been by a little old lady that only drove it to church on Sunday) So thanks to this great post, I'll be replacing mine. Not knowing diddly about pads, I see that Hawk HPS are recommended. Any particular place to get them, I'd like to support people that support the Forum. Would you recommend doing the back now as well? Thanks
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Old 04-29-2007, 08:26 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billp
I found out that my front pads are 2mm and the back are 4mm, (at only 24K) (Supposed to have been by a little old lady that only drove it to church on Sunday) So thanks to this great post, I'll be replacing mine. Not knowing diddly about pads, I see that Hawk HPS are recommended. Any particular place to get them, I'd like to support people that support the Forum. Would you recommend doing the back now as well? Thanks
There are many things that need to be done in balance, Brakes are one--Front and back. I have the Stop Tech Rotors and Pads with 40,000 miles and they are fine --0 dust, rotors will easily take a turn when I need to.

Everyone in the world thinks they are a good driver, shifter, brake user, Clutch user, sex machine etc. Not True. The only time I touch the brake pedal is when I HAVE to stop.
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Old 04-30-2007, 02:54 AM   #183
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You guys are a lot more into the driving and performance than I'll probably get. I think that I'll get a little more experience under my belt and when I need new rotors then go for the bigger and better ones.
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:09 PM   #184
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Yeah, brake pads are very simple to do (that's why I do them). Rotors are just as simple with the rear rotors only being mildly more difficult due to the inclusion of the e-brake drum. I loved the Hawk pads, particularly on the early model Z's (mine was an '03). I haven't put them on the G35C yet but plan to shortly.
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Old 05-27-2007, 05:44 PM   #185
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I am out in my driveway right now trying to change my rear rotors and pads and cannot seem to get the rear caliper bolts loose. Does anyone have any tips? I really dont want to have to pay someone to do this for me...
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Old 05-27-2007, 06:17 PM   #186
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Bah... they aren't budging and i dont have air tools, i even tried hammering the wrench. Im going to have to pay someone to do this. I hate that.
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Old 05-27-2007, 06:37 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSpec02
Bah... they aren't budging and i dont have air tools, i even tried hammering the wrench. Im going to have to pay someone to do this. I hate that.
UGH --this again ----Penatrating fluid WILL NOT work, dont waste your time. U need a High quality socket (that fits square and tite) and what ever breaker bar it takes even if it is 4 ft long. MAKE sure you are turning it the right way ---IT HAS to come....HAS TO
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Old 05-27-2007, 07:21 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
UGH --this again ----Penatrating fluid WILL NOT work, dont waste your time. U need a High quality socket (that fits square and tite) and what ever breaker bar it takes even if it is 4 ft long. MAKE sure you are turning it the right way ---IT HAS to come....HAS TO
You can only fit so much breaker bar under the wheel well..... i tried a long wrench, about as long as would fit and I couldnt get it. Im thinking it may take an air ratchet.
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Old 05-27-2007, 07:48 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSpec02
You can only fit so much breaker bar under the wheel well..... i tried a long wrench, about as long as would fit and I couldnt get it. Im thinking it may take an air ratchet.
Air rachet wont cut it , An air gun will---But, where there is a will there is a way ---and I have gotten the Zs high enough where I was able to get a LOT off breaker bar under it
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Old 05-27-2007, 10:43 PM   #190
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Just got my Project Mu B-Force pads on. Wanted less brake dust and less wheel cleaning. Yeah, the rear caliper bolt was hard to take off, but once loosened, it's a piece of cake. I just used a bigger 1/2" ratchet and more muscle. No chemicals. Here's some pics of the install and part of a post in the "media" section.


Front brake shim and retainer set. According to the tech manual, these need to be replaced each time the pads are changed. But unless your shims are rusted, you really shouldn't need to spend the $30+


Shots of the pads along with the rear shim/retainers ($20 )


Install was really simple. Only one bolt to remove. Hung the upper caliper via hanger.


The rears are just like the front, remove one bolt, though I just let the upper caliper hang.


You can find this tool specifically to push in the piston at your local Sears.
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:45 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSpec02
You can only fit so much breaker bar under the wheel well..... i tried a long wrench, about as long as would fit and I couldnt get it. Im thinking it may take an air ratchet.
since a 22" breaker bar was too long to clear the rear fender, i removed(replaced) the rear rotors last month with a 1/2" ratchet with a heavy impact 19mm socket and a big short heavy hammer(not those regular household ballpin). Just hit the ratchet a few times in the correct direction, they all came loose. Good luck.
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Old 06-04-2007, 01:49 PM   #192
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Yeah those rear bolts are tough to loosen. I finally gave up (I didn't want to break my tools) and had my local mechanic go at it with an air gun and retighten to spec by hand.
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Old 06-06-2007, 09:01 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg8r
Yeah those rear bolts are tough to loosen. I finally gave up (I didn't want to break my tools) and had my local mechanic go at it with an air gun and retighten to spec by hand.
yeah i broke a tool .

I did the rear and my husband did the front. took about an hour. nissan brakes are very easy to replace.
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Old 08-11-2007, 07:01 AM   #194
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great step by step for replacing the pads. just finished doing this myself - using these instructions. had never attempted brake work before - but found it very rewarding and easy to do. i replaced the OEM pads with Hawk ($66.00 at pep boys), used the shim that was on the back of the new pads, did not have any trouble loosening the calipers bolts, and had no screeching or noise afterwards. did not bleed the brakes at all and just pushed the piston back into the cylinder with an adjustable wrench (just watch your fluid level - if it gets close to overflowing, use a paper towel to soak up some off the top as you go). went through the bedding procedure and they work like a charm. thanks for the info.

Last edited by dixieland; 08-11-2007 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 10-17-2007, 06:58 AM   #195
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I changed my fronts to Hawk HPS pads about a month ago. They had a nice bite a first. After 5 hours of track time, i have to mash the pedal to stop. I checked them out and i have lots of pad left still. Bled the brakes a week ago too. Still the same.

Any body know what i can do?
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:32 AM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by three_fitty
I changed my fronts to Hawk HPS pads about a month ago. They had a nice bite a first. After 5 hours of track time, i have to mash the pedal to stop. I checked them out and i have lots of pad left still. Bled the brakes a week ago too. Still the same.

Any body know what i can do?
i think your pads are toasted..... replace rotors and pads.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:04 AM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ztalker
i think your pads are toasted..... replace rotors and pads.
Pads are still good. I just took them off and noticed they're glazed.
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Old 11-08-2007, 06:34 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HokieZ
Rotors are just as simple with the rear rotors only being mildly more difficult due to the inclusion of the e-brake drum.

Inclusion of the E-drum? Info please.
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Old 11-08-2007, 07:21 AM   #199
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...
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:19 AM   #200
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I miss the good ol days when people knew chit....
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