How-to: Change Brake Pads - Page 2 - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion



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Old 01-29-2004, 06:05 PM   #21
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:48 PM   #22
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Very well written How-2!

But this is only part 1. New pads NEED to be bedded in properly. A "Coating" of the new pad material needs to be burnished(not sure if that is the right word) onto the rotor. I'm tired, so do a search, or check out Stoptech's site.

PS......loved the electrical tape band-aid!
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnthuZ
Very well written How-2!

But this is only part 1. New pads NEED to be bedded in properly. A "Coating" of the new pad material needs to be burnished(not sure if that is the right word) onto the rotor. I'm tired, so do a search, or check out Stoptech's site.

PS......loved the electrical tape band-aid!
hey Bruce, have you changed your front pads yet? I'm planning on putting the NISMO pads on when the weather is better.

My question is how do you compress the pistons? A C-clamp won't fit between the caliper.
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Old 01-29-2004, 08:49 PM   #24
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Well Danny.......I've got BIG Boy Stoptechs, And U have BABY Brembos, Sooooooo, I'm not sure I can advise.


BUT.....I'll teach U my tricks at Mid-Ohio.


BTW.....I don't know enough about the Nismo pads, but, from what I've read, don't waste your money. Give Matt at Carbotech a call.


BTW 2....I might have a connection for some rear track Brembos.........
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Old 01-29-2004, 09:25 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by dvlad
My question is how do you compress the pistons? A C-clamp won't fit between the caliper.
Take a look at write up#16 and the picture. There is a notch bout 1-1/2" by maybe 2" clear opening on the opposite side of the piston. The C-clamp (threaded part) goes in there and seats on the piston itself. I have a 5" C-clamp and it was really more than enough to do the job. I do suggest using either the old pad or a small peice of wood to distribute the the pressure over the piston when depressing it into the piston housing.
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Old 01-30-2004, 12:14 AM   #26
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Are there detailed instructions with pictures for changing the pads on Z's with the brembo brakes??? I couldn't find any on this or other sites. :-/

While I search for one I'll wait for HokieZ's write up on changing the brake lines
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Old 01-30-2004, 07:56 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by ZilvahZ
Take a look at write up#16 and the picture. There is a notch bout 1-1/2" by maybe 2" clear opening on the opposite side of the piston. The C-clamp (threaded part) goes in there and seats on the piston itself. I have a 5" C-clamp and it was really more than enough to do the job. I do suggest using either the old pad or a small peice of wood to distribute the the pressure over the piston when depressing it into the piston housing.
you are correct. Sorry, i should have been more specfic. I have brembo's on my touring.
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Old 01-30-2004, 08:11 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnthuZ
Well Danny.......I've got BIG Boy Stoptechs, And U have BABY Brembos, Sooooooo, I'm not sure I can advise.


BUT.....I'll teach U my tricks at Mid-Ohio.


BTW.....I don't know enough about the Nismo pads, but, from what I've read, don't waste your money. Give Matt at Carbotech a call.


BTW 2....I might have a connection for some rear track Brembos.........
You might have big boy Stoptechs, but last time i checked Stoptechs aren't racing in F1!

Agh....i already bought the NISMO's. oh well.

Can you elaborate more on the rear track brembo's?
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Old 01-30-2004, 08:21 AM   #29
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Dan, a friend has found his OEM Track Brembo's......uhm.......insufficient for his needs (he runs HUGE Hoosier's & Blackhawk is a b*tch on brakes). Soooo, he'll cut me deal on the rears when he gets his HUGE Brembo set.

That's my plan, and I'm sticking to it!
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Old 01-30-2004, 10:41 AM   #30
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Nice write up, and I loved the 'mandaid'. I still have to ge tin there and change my pads....I bought the pads about 3 months ago and haven't had the time....good thing the Brembos will be really easy to change!
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Old 01-30-2004, 11:27 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by dvlad
hey Bruce, have you changed your front pads yet? I'm planning on putting the NISMO pads on when the weather is better.

My question is how do you compress the pistons? A C-clamp won't fit between the caliper.

Don't Bother with the Nismo Pad as hawk makes the Nismo pads. Just get a good hawk, Carbotech, or Ferodo pad and you will be much better off... I personally perfer Hawk HP+ or HPS (these are more streetable) Our Brembo calapers us the same pads as The R34 Skylines do!
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Old 01-30-2004, 11:29 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnthuZ
Dan, a friend has found his OEM Track Brembo's......uhm.......insufficient for his needs (he runs HUGE Hoosier's & Blackhawk is a b*tch on brakes). Soooo, he'll cut me deal on the rears when he gets his HUGE Brembo set.

That's my plan, and I'm sticking to it!
What fluid is he running???

I am having problems with boiling my fluid and I might have to go to bigger brakes if I can't control my heat problems... I am pretty harsh on brakes at the track
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Old 01-30-2004, 05:11 PM   #33
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Jtree, we both run Motal 600 with no problem. The lack of cooling air is what's killing us. He has Burnt his brakes, I've just way over-cooked mine!

The Carbotech Panther +'s are a true RACE pad, but they're also work great on the street......if you don't mind a few extra squeaks!

Here is an ugly pic of mine:
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How-to: Change Brake Pads-brown-hat-3.jpg  
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Old 01-31-2004, 07:26 AM   #34
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Four things to add...

1. You DO NOT have to remove both slider pins from the caliper. Removing the top slider (bolt) allows the bottom pin to act as a hinge and you can rotate the top of the caliper off of the assembly allowing access to the pads.

2. Before you go pushing the piston in to make room for new pads, thoroughly clean off the piston and dust boot with brake cleaner. Make it look like new. The build-up of brake dust will score the pistons if you go forcing it back in.

3. Step 14 (swapping shims) is NOT optional on the inboard (piston facing) pads. The shim on the inboard pad protects the piston face from scoring when it deflects. The bare backing plates of pads will wear down that single piston face. This is not an issue on mulitple piston calipers (StopTech, Brembo). In addition, when transferring the shims from one set to another they need to be thoroughly cleaned and re-lubed with high-temp grease. I use High-temp Silicone found at NAPA. You should first apply grease to the pad backing plate, put the first shim on, apply another layer of grease on top of the shim you just replaced and affix the second shim. There are two shims on each pad. If you don't re-lube the shims, you should encounter a lot of squeaking because the shims will be shifting on the backing plate.

4. If you want to do all for corners at once, you can lift the entire side of the car on that one jack point. I DO NOT recommend doing so with the **** jack that comes with the Z. Get a good floor jack with low clearance (I recommend the Harbor Freight aluminum racing jack) and lift the car just enough to slide two jack stands under at their lowest height.
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Old 01-31-2004, 08:11 AM   #35
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Hmm, thanks for the info.

Someone at work described #1 as well which is handy (no worrying about the caliper falling.

#2 wasn't even necessary on mine since I didn't have to push the piston back in (is only there for illustration) but is very wise on worn pads where the piston has extended significantly.

#3 - 2 shims on each pad? I only recall one. I didn't realize their purpse (My Jeep and VW didn't have either) but I'll be putting the car back up and installing them. I'll update the procedure and thanks for the guidance. Learn something new every day....

Agree with you entirely on #4.
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Old 01-31-2004, 08:20 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by HokieZ
Hmm, thanks for the info.

Someone at work described #1 as well which is handy (no worrying about the caliper falling.

#2 wasn't even necessary on mine since I didn't have to push the piston back in (is only there for illustration) but is very wise on worn pads where the piston has extended significantly.

#3 - 2 shims on each pad? I only recall one. I didn't realize their purpse (My Jeep and VW didn't have either) but I'll be putting the car back up and installing them. I'll update the procedure and thanks for the guidance. Learn something new every day....

Agree with you entirely on #4.
The shims are very thin and probably stuck together.
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Old 01-31-2004, 08:27 AM   #37
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Could be, I'll be putting it back in the air in a few minutes (the snow has finally melted enough to drive the car) to make the necessary corrections.
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Old 01-31-2004, 09:01 AM   #38
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Thanks again for the write up droideka & HokieZ! Excellent post!
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Old 01-31-2004, 12:32 PM   #39
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Great instruction, now I got no excuse not to replace my pads since its been making funny noise when the weather is less than 20F.
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Old 03-13-2004, 06:54 PM   #40
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Thank you, seriously. I've trying to get more into DIY car care. Did my first oil change on my Jeep last summer. Installed my grounding kit and side-markers on the Z. Oh, I also changed the fan-belt on the Jeep.

Besides crappy installs of stereo equipment, that about sums up my experiences with doing my own work on any of my cars. I guess you could count helping a friends dad install an alternator on my Blazer back in college, but all I remember doing was to hand him tools.

This was so easy I wondered if I'd done everything right afterwards. I would've never attempted this without such a good walkthrough, but now that I'm done, I left wondering what my concern was in the first place.

Thanks. I didn't want to pay alot to change the brake pads when bigger brakes are just around the corner for me. Granted, I probably spent more than it would've cost for some of the tools, but it's not like they were purchased for a one time thing.

P.S. I didn't check the lug sizes before buying the 21mm sockets, but for those with Volks, 19mm sockets instead of 21's. My box went up to 19 so luckily I didn't need 20mm, lol.
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