That's actually not true. The pad backing plate is made of steel and is flat. The caliper piston pushes against this backing plate when you step on the brake pedal and there's nothing about the design of either component that would cause damage. That face of the piston spreads force evenly across the pad's backing plate.

A shim is sometimes added to damp out high frequency vibrations in order to reduce the propensity of pads to squeal if they haven't been properly bedded. When I install pads, I usually remove shims in order to obtain a firmer pedal feel. To avoid squeal, I make sure the pads and rotors are bedded, using the following technique: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

It's better to treat the root cause of the squeal, rather than going after the symptoms with shims or rubbery CRC goop. Besides, there are other benefits to bedding besides lack of squeal. These benefits include less dust, longer rotor life, higher Cf between pads and rotor resulting in firmer pedal feel and less pedal effort, and better cold bite. In fact, you can use squeal as an indication that the rotors have become unbedded and then do something about it.

 

Good write up/pics!

I did my brakes on my old 300zx before, but that was LONG ago. This was a good reminder of what's awaiting me in a few days, haha. Thanks!

 

I put Hawk HPS in the front, and I just did the rears yesterday.
Bought a set of Duralast semi-metallics from Autozone...yea I know they're not hawks, but at $14 I don't care since rear pads are'nt used as heavily. (Great deal for the money I think b/c from what I can tell they're on par with the OEM's and they don't make any noise)

Install is almost just as easy as the fronts, only problem I encountered was that it is difficult to get the lower 14mm bolt loose because of a suspension beam that's in the way. You have to use either a strong wrench or a thin L-shaped socket to get to it.

 

i just installed the hawk hps in front.. (and mind you anyone with axis rims knows what an effin b**** it is to take the lug nuts off because the gap between lug and rim hole thingy is so effing small and whoever installed my rims decided to torque the nuts to like 250lbs because it literally took me and a buddy to untighten every darn lug) anyways i am pretty sure i bedded them correctly.. and dust film appeared on my rims so im guessing they have worn in accordingly.. but there is a squeaking of the breaks when i slightlyyyy press the pedal... any idea what that is? i havent changed the backs yet so i cant really tell where its coming from

 

Good write up... The dealership wants to charge me $202 (not incl. pads) to change my front pads and grind the rotors. I bought the HAWK HPS pads at PepBoys for $65, they only want $120 for the install.

I am tempted to buy slotted and cross drilled rotors of EBAY from ROTORPROS.com for $220 shipped and just change the pads myself. Now that I see it's not too hard. Total cost would be around $340 for better looking rotors and pads, plus my labor... vs dealership...$404 install + $120 pads = $524!

Zquicksilver

 

Definitely do it yourself. It is far and away the easiest thing to do on the car. I think it's easier than adding gas because at least on mine, it can be a chore to get the gas cap cover open.

GMS

 

Thanks for the note. I was echoing what a couple of others had informed me but will take the experts word for it.

 

Please excuse the car maintenance noob question, but it sounds like you do not have to bleed the brakes for a simple pad change?

 

You don't have to bleed them when changing pads. But it's a convenient time to do it. Plus, if you plan to retract the pistons and don't want to push the old fluid back up into the master cylinder, then you'll need to open the bleed screw. Once you've done that, then you need to bleed the brakes because you've just introduced some air into the system.

 

Great write up just finished my first do it yourself brake install, saved me 200 bucks. It was pretty easy and mind you the only other thing I have done on my car myself is change out the headlights

 

I called Hawk Co. and asked one of the guys if we should use the shims from the stock pads on the Hawk pads and he had no idea as to what to do.

 

i couldnt get the stock shims off, bye bye shims

 

Hawk has engineers, product managers, marketing types, and administrative folks as well as a cleaning staff. What was the job title of the person to whom you spoke? Was he an "official" tech support guy? Did he say he would get back to you later?

By the way, I do not reuse old shims when I install new brake pads. If the new pads come without shims or with built-in shims, then that's what I install.

 

Good write up HokieZ, just completed my change to Hawks with no problems. First time to ever work on brakes and I am now wondered why I ever paid anyone to do this on my previous vehicles.

Thanks!!!

 

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I followed the
Zackhausen Racing instructions on my freshly installed Hawks Street Pads, not a squeak at all, at any speed. I put high temp grease between the shim piece and the new pads. Work great, thanks for the write up, Zack.

BTW, the brakes on the Z have to be the easiest brakes that I have every worked on. Only takes minutes, literally.

 

My only advice is to use brake cleaner as little as possible. That thing is nasty, can damage critical components and rotors and is unbelievably unhealthy! Some dearships in my area have banned brake cleaner altogether.

If you live in a relatively clean area(no salt, no dirt roads, etc...) and use normal pads(weird super sitcky dust pads) I'd use water with a rag to clean the piston. Let dry and you are set.

From what I understand brake cleaner is a legacy of the days of drum discs, who used to gunkup and fill up with brake material. Discs are open, 99% of the crap gets on your rim, not on the piston. I've seen people soak perfectly clean calipers into gallons of brake cleaner WTF.

 

we use brake cleaner when nothing else will clean our hands

god does that **** sting

 

Finally finished change the rear brake pads!
The rear caliper's upper bolt is really hard to get off.
Is the front easier?
Any tips for removing the front caliper bolt?
I used L shaped socket/wrench, and the bolt is so tight that the whole car is moving when I tried to loosen the rear caliper's upper bolt.

 

i just used a wrench and was fine