Is my stoptech rotor on the right way? PIC
04-07-2005, 09:57 AM
#23
Originally Posted by GaryM05
I use an old brake pad to push the pistons back in. Just stick it in there at a 90 degree angle so that it covers the majority of both pistons (with the backing plate facing the pistons) and use it as a lever.
I previously used the C-clamp method, but a friend (and very experienced racer) recommended against this, as he was concerned that it could put undue pressure along the outside of the caliper (where you leverage the clamp.)
Gary
I previously used the C-clamp method, but a friend (and very experienced racer) recommended against this, as he was concerned that it could put undue pressure along the outside of the caliper (where you leverage the clamp.)
Gary
Thanks for the advice! Since I've thrown all my old brake pads away already, I'll have to fashion a tool that works similarly to an old brake pad. Also, I noticed that if I push one piston in, the adjacent one moves out...so I got to make sure the both pistons are pushed back at the same time.
Don
04-07-2005, 11:24 AM
#24
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Gary hit the nail on the head on piston retraction...that's the way all of our guys swap pads.
1. Only pull one pad out at a time on each caliper (if you do, you'll just move the pistons out on the other side when you push these in).
2. Turn the pad 90 degrees with friction facing in to the rotor. The pad backing plate will span both piston in our ST-40.
3. Use the pad as a lever to push the both pistons back into the bore at the same time.
4. Drop the new pad on the side you're working on.
5. Repeat on the other side of the caliper.
Just be careful with the edges of the pads on the dust boots, etc.
Another tip for the stock base model Z rear calipers. If I remember correctly, just remove the outer pad, loosen the bleed screw, and pull the caliper body out towards you...the piston should slide back in..piece of cake. No need to mess with clamps, etc.
I've done it so many times that once I have the car in the air and wheels off, I think I can change my pads in about 5 minutes...you just need some practice.
1. Only pull one pad out at a time on each caliper (if you do, you'll just move the pistons out on the other side when you push these in).
2. Turn the pad 90 degrees with friction facing in to the rotor. The pad backing plate will span both piston in our ST-40.
3. Use the pad as a lever to push the both pistons back into the bore at the same time.
4. Drop the new pad on the side you're working on.
5. Repeat on the other side of the caliper.
Just be careful with the edges of the pads on the dust boots, etc.
Another tip for the stock base model Z rear calipers. If I remember correctly, just remove the outer pad, loosen the bleed screw, and pull the caliper body out towards you...the piston should slide back in..piece of cake. No need to mess with clamps, etc.
I've done it so many times that once I have the car in the air and wheels off, I think I can change my pads in about 5 minutes...you just need some practice.
04-07-2005, 12:39 PM
#26
Nice tips J Ritt!
I've also lost track of how many times I've changed pads.
I think I understand what you mean by turning the old pad 90 degrees. I've used the handle of my ChannelLocks till now to retract the pistons. I'll be swapping to track pads next week, and I'll take some pics of your method.
Another question was raised on another site. Should the bleeder be opened while pushing the pistons back? I never did this, but I bleed till new fluid comes out when I bleed after swapping pads. Should make easier pushing, and less potential damage from forcing old fluid back towards the master cylinder.
Your thoughts?
I've also lost track of how many times I've changed pads.
I think I understand what you mean by turning the old pad 90 degrees. I've used the handle of my ChannelLocks till now to retract the pistons. I'll be swapping to track pads next week, and I'll take some pics of your method.
Another question was raised on another site. Should the bleeder be opened while pushing the pistons back? I never did this, but I bleed till new fluid comes out when I bleed after swapping pads. Should make easier pushing, and less potential damage from forcing old fluid back towards the master cylinder.
Your thoughts?
04-08-2005, 07:11 AM
#27
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derek173- sorry to highjack your thread, but could you give me a little info on your wheels, where you got them, offsets, etc. I'd really like to get some BBS LMs, but I can't find anyone who knows the proper offsets that'd give me the possibility of upgrading to a Stoptech 14" front/13" rear kit in the future...Thanks for any info.
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