I was 100% sure when I installed them, I had them going the right way. My buddy said he saw a 350z and the slots were facing a different way. I am sure different brands have different specifications.



thanks

 

if that is the passanger wheel i think they are backwards

 

I was told to put my Stop-Tech rotors on that way if it is the Pass. side.

 

sorry guys yes it is passenger side

 

That's the way StopTech says they should go. I have them on my car and they came with L and R stickers. Mine look just like yours.
http://stoptech.com/faq/data/faq16.html
Bob

 

The Slot on the rotor needs to spin towards the ground in order to catch the air. So yes it's on correct.

 

I cuncur. When in doubt, check the install guide:

http://www.stoptech.com/installation...C_03-22-05.pdf

Page 12

 

Correcto, My STOPTECH's are on that way as well.

 

thanks guys I was pretty sure, but don't want to go the track and they aren't effective!

 

Not to steal the thread, but since several in here have these rotors, I want to ask: Do your rotors make a clacking noise when they are hot or when they are applied hard? Mine do. I don't notice this in normal driving and honestly I'm not very hard on the brakes but under those conditions, they make a pretty good noise and you can feel it too. StopTech didn't seem to know what I was describing. The shop where I bought them had another pair and I tried one of them with the same result. They were washed like the directions stated and bedded in properly. I added Hawk pads and SS brakes lines at the same time. Putting the stock rotors back on fixed the problem.
Do your 2-piece StopTechs feel and sound just like the stock ones?

Thanks for your help,

Bob

 

The rotor is on correctly.

Redline,
I'm not sure what the noise is you're describing. The rotors should sound/function just as the stock rotors do when driving normally. When they are very hot and you come to a stop however (after some canyon driving or a track session), you will hear some ticking noises coming from the rotors...this is the mounting washers releasing tension as the rotor shrinks back down to size as it cools.

What pads are you using? There have been a few posts on this board and others regarding noises coming from pads moving around within the caliper. It happens with the Brembo calipers, and it happens with ours...depends on the backing plate size/shape of the pad. That may be what you are hearing as well.

Let us know. We'll stay on it until we figure it out.

 

Just a side note ... the slant direction of the 'slots' on the rotor is of little iimportance. It works fine either way. Instead, the important thing to pay special attention to is the orientation of the cooling vanes inside the rotor. That is what determines the proper orientation of most rotor. Vented rotor acts like an air pump where air is injested near the central hat opening area and exhausted around the outter edge openings.

The pic shown is correctly mounted, as the Stoptech rotors have slots cut in the opposite slant as the aero vanes inside.


RedlineZ,
I believe I know what you're talking about. I get the same thing when switching from race to street pads (and vice versa). The noise's from the slot/pad interaction and an indication that further bed-in is needed. Read through Stoptech's finely written 'bedding procedures'. It may take two or three full bedding sessions to properly bed the pads in.

 

JRitt,
I have the Hawk pads that needed grinding to fit. The problem (Clacking , best description I have) is only with Stop Techs, not stock rotors. After the installation of the new pads, rotors and brakelines, the first stop brought on such a tremendous shudder, we thought the calipers were loose or the rotors were warped, cracked or defective in some way. Back on the lift checked, retightened everything and tried again, same result. We even tried a third StopTech front rotor ,same result.Put the stock rotors back on, no clack. Because we felt like it would be a long shot for 3 new rotors to be defective, I decided to put them back on, bed them in and see what happens. It helped slightly, as before bed in the noise, shudder was on any stop, now just on hard stops. I swapped pads side to side in same caliper and left to right, no change.
It seems to be the front rotors, could it be the rears? Do you think doing the bed in again will help? Should I replace the pads?
If you want to PM your phone # I will give you a call to discuss further.

Thanks,
Bob

 

Bob,
Please call our Tech service manager and go through this with him. Matt at 310-325-4799 x105. We'll get you fixed up. Thanks.

 

RedlineZ,

I had the same issues as you have with bedding in race pads then going back to street pads. When I first bedded in my brand new Axxis Ultimates, they made that clacking noise everytime a slot runs under the pad, and I thought something was really wrong. Yet, I continued to go through eight 60-10mph braking exercises. I let the brakes cool, and did another eight braking sessions. That second bedding procedure got rid of the clacking.

Three weeks ago, I swapped in the race pads, and that clacking nose came back during my bedding. It went away after the pads were bedded in. Unfortunately, as DaveH had informed me, if you use your race pads on public roads for a couple days (when high temps cannot be reached), the pads will score off the pad material that had previously been deposited on your rotors during the bedding procedure. You'll need to bed the race pads in again right before or during your track session.

Well, I didn't do that, so my first track session resulted in clacking followed by tremendous shuddering due to "improper" bedding. It eventually went away with each subsequent session. The clacking is ever present until the pads and rotors are properly bedded in. I don't know why. From this experience, I have learned that:

1) bedding in race pads is very difficult to do on public roads.
2) bedding in race pads should be performed right before or during the track session.

I have driven around with my race pads for the past two weeks, and just recently swapped in my Axxis Ultimates. I have to re-bed them in, and I expect to hear clacking during my first bed-in procedure. It's a discomforting sound, and it seems to indicate impending brake failure, but it goes away for me.

Also, recently, I've ground the edges of the backing plates so that the pads can be more easily exchanged. I had a hell of a time getting pads out after I've had to pound them in with a mallet. Now, they slide in and out with some wiggling. It still takes me about an hour to change pads...not as easy as I had expected because I haven't figured out an easy way to push the pistons back. The C-Clamp is a PITA to use.

OK, this has been way off topic, but I think the rotor direction topic has been answered many posts ago.

 

Just a quick question. (semi noob ) But are those stock size slotted rotors for the brembo setup? Does anyone make Bigger rotors for the brembo calipers? Websites to look at?

Thanks Guys

 

that is what i am waiting for. i spoke with baer/eradispeed at sema about this, (since they make these plus size, stock-caliper kits for most other cars) and they said that they had no intention of creating a kit for the G/Z with brembos.

kind of a bummer, but hopefully someone will soon.

 

Stoptech makes a kit for the Z however, it's not a larger sized rotor... it's cross-drilled or slotted... same size rotor as current Z/G configuration and comes with upgraded brake pads, fluid and braided lines. They sell the complete for $650... that's for all 4... I can sell them for less if anyone would like a set... I have one here at my shop ready for install on my own Z.

 

Jeff,
I took THX723 and dnguyent's advice above and had a bed in session this morning, seemed to help, but the rain started and couldn't do another.
I talked with Matt at Stoptech and he felt bedding in was the answer too. When all is dry I will try another session or two and check back with him.
Thanks guys for all your help.

Bob

turbogt, the rotors are two piece, same size, direct replacements.

 

I use an old brake pad to push the pistons back in. Just stick it in there at a 90 degree angle so that it covers the majority of both pistons (with the backing plate facing the pistons) and use it as a lever.

I previously used the C-clamp method, but a friend (and very experienced racer) recommended against this, as he was concerned that it could put undue pressure along the outside of the caliper (where you leverage the clamp.)

Gary