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Sway Bar Database

Old 06-16-2008, 09:30 AM
  #81  
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:10 PM
  #82  
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come on some body......need help
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Old 06-16-2008, 05:57 PM
  #83  
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Old 06-30-2008, 07:59 AM
  #84  
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Anyone know anything about HKS Kansai sways?
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:05 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by mw9
anyone tried cobb tuning combo sways/springs?
I think im gonna be getting these. Anyone else tried them?
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Old 07-30-2008, 11:58 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by sbZenth
I think im gonna be getting these. Anyone else tried them?

never tried but the only info I can find is they are hollow bars.
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:09 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by G35cTT
never tried but the only info I can find is they are hollow bars.
Ive seen that they are almost exactly the same as hotchkis.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:51 PM
  #88  
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Does anyone know what the stiffness settings on the Progress sway bars are? I found them before, but i can't figure out for the life of me where!!!

Thanks
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Old 10-15-2008, 02:17 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by ReV2Red View Post
Does anyone know what the stiffness settings on the Progress sway bars are? I found them before, but i can't figure out for the life of me where!!!

Thanks
I've never seen published #'s, only that the front is 33mm, 3 way adjustable, the rear is 22mm, 2 way adjustable, and they are solid. I don't know how you would mathmatically derive the stiffness difference between stock and these since stock is hollow and these are not. I think you would need to measure the difference mechanically with some sort of tool/instrument.
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Old 10-15-2008, 02:24 PM
  #90  
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I think that is what someone did. I'm almost positive i saw the numbers posted, i just can't find them again.
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Old 10-16-2008, 02:17 PM
  #91  
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Any stiffness specs on the Tanabe sustec sways compared to OEM? Size is 36 FR and 22 RR and they are solid not hollow.



http://www.tanabe-usa.com/stabilizers/
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Old 10-17-2008, 03:39 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by G35cTT View Post
Any stiffness specs on the Tanabe sustec sways compared to OEM? Size is 36 FR and 22 RR and they are solid not hollow.



http://www.tanabe-usa.com/stabilizers/
They are not solid, they are hollow. The link your provide tell's you that.
"The Sustec Stabilizer has a carefully calculated OUTER and INNER diameter, for the proper amount of rigidity." And I called Tanabe to confirm that's what the text means. 1-310-783-0200, hollow not solid. They don't have stiffness specs vs oem and I do not blame them for that. I think we are kidding ourselves if we believe all the manufactures that publish numbers are accurate. You have many adjustable bar choices that have lot's of owner backed up imput on, pick one of them and call it a day.
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Old 06-27-2009, 03:02 PM
  #93  
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I would like to contribute some CRITICAL info that affects EVERYONE no matter WHAT sways they are running even if they are stock..

just today i realized my problem on my car....I have had chitty handling for the past 40k miles and have thrown 3 sets of struts at my car as well as 4 sets of springs hotchkis sways and upper tubular A-arms with adjustable camber.....

EVERY time i thought i fixed my problem the sloppy handling came back.....

when i finally got hotchkis sways i thought my problems were gone, but all this did was put more pressure on the already blown bushings and work for a minute and then further damage the bushings until i was right back where i left off with sloppy handling once again....first i bought KYB struts which was a mistake cause they were weaker than factory....then i got tokico blues but they weren't up to the UNKNOWN task that they were compensating for bad bushings and a sway bar that was almost barely working cause of the bushings....enter the d-spec and it is drivable now.....but the bushings are so bad now that the one that connects to the chassis SEEMS to the eye to be fine but once you tear apart the suspension it has seperated......

To sum things up.

My lower control arm has 2 bad bushings.....the bushing that the strut attaches to is cracked on the bottom and sagging (WHY couldn't the nissan tech see that?????)

also the main bushing on the inner part of the lower control arm that connects to the chassis is separated and basically is in the same condition as a blown motor mount......but it is still in place.....i can literally twist the lower control arm left and right with little effort as if i was grabbing the end of a pipe and twisting it. The same exact problem on both sides of the car.

So HOW you may ask would this affect handling????? well the swaybar is connected directly to the lower control arm by an endlink, and the swaybar is NOT working because of this....and even if it is it is TOO LATE.....I need to replace these bushings in order to fix my problem.....

by the way...I pulled the d-specs and tested them and the are strong as hell on the stiffest setting.....i had them set to full stiff to overcompensate the front swaybar not operating correctly.....

i don't have 700.00 for articulating bushings....so i am going to need to get some from one of the vendors here and have these 2 pressed in somewhere else cause my Nissan dealer wont do it....

this problem showed up at 50kmiles and now i have 100k miles....

if you have weird swaybar problems or are confusing it with struts being blown just remember that in order for the sways to work....the bushings on the lower control arms (these would be where the endlinks connect the swaybar to the lower control arm) need to be in good condition or replaced with something better in order for the swaybars to work correctly...

I believe my rear control arm bushings are just fine...and i replaced my endlinks 9 months ago.....GLAD i don't have to purchase a full blown coil over kit now only to be disappointed.....

I just swapped back in my tanabe gf210 springs and had it aligned today and told the tech what happened just so that he knows....

i plan on getting whiteline linear springs and swapping them in since they lowered the Z EXACTLY the same as the tanabe's i have now.

WHEW!

Z1 how much for these bushings shipped? lower control arm bushings for both sides..

Thanks!

PM me....

Last edited by danimaldaisy; 06-27-2009 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 06-27-2009, 03:54 PM
  #94  
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pricing is posted in the vendor classifieds, and they are in stock
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:29 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by goodkd View Post
My Hotchkis sway bars arrived today. They are the new ones with the four way adjustable front. I was surprised to see thier recommendations were still for the old ones (three way adjustable and different stiffnesses). I have done a number of searches and found two recommendations for the NEW sways:

#1) F: Second stiffest (+82%) R: Softest (+80%)
#2) F: Stiffest (+129%) R: Middle (+125%)

I know the only way to really know is to install and try. Just seeing if there is consensus out there for a good/smart starting point.

Other specs of potential importance: 19s, 245/275 setup, lowered 0.6" with RS*R Ti2000s.

Thanks
Any info on this? Also, may be a really stupid question: how do you adjust these? I don't have them yet, but I am curious before I buy them, the ease of adjustment.
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:43 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by 03aeroZ View Post
Any info on this? Also, may be a really stupid question: how do you adjust these? I don't have them yet, but I am curious before I buy them, the ease of adjustment.
the instructions give you the recommended starting points. Adjusting them, like any other swaybar, involves just disconnecting the endlinks and moving their position on the bars
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Old 07-13-2009, 03:55 PM
  #97  
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So can this be done with the car on the ground or does it need to be raised?
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Old 07-14-2009, 05:31 AM
  #98  
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that would depend on how big/small you are, and how low/high your car is. Ideally, the car should be raised on jack stands
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:09 AM
  #99  
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Perfect...thanks for the info.
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:48 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance View Post
the instructions give you the recommended starting points. Adjusting them, like any other swaybar, involves just disconnecting the endlinks and moving their position on the bars
Adam, IIRC Hotchkis recommends starting at full stiff. If that's the case, at no point to I recommend starting out that way. med/med makes a lot more sense. With the 4 postion front bar I'd think that means 3rd hole in the front.
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