Rear Toe arms vs Rear camber arms
#1
Prodigal Son
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear Toe arms vs Rear camber arms
Ok idiot question, but what is the difference between a rear camber arm and a rear toe arm?? do they do the same thing or are they seperate items that work together???? Any help would be awsome..
#2
New Member
iTrader: (10)
That's a trick question. Know that any company that sells you a toe arm is trying to adjust toe from the wrong place. Check the FSM, their idea of a toe arm is actually called a radius rod. You can adjust some toe, but you give the car rear caster in the process.
He’s a second opinion on why not to adjust rear toe with toe arms/traction arms, this is a cut and paste with the understanding that this person calls the radius rod a “rear trailing arm”.
“The rear trailing arms should not be adjustable in length as some companies are selling them as such. They are claiming this as a way to change the toe. While it does change toe statically...it is not the proper way to do so. Changing the length of this arm puts even more load on the rear hub....this results in "bump steer" or toes the rear wheel out during compression.” BJ Zacharias EVO350
Bottom line, do not try to adjust toe that way. Do it from where the oem toe adjustment is, and if the oem setup does not have enough adjustment. But and install SPC elongated toe cam bolts.
So, adjusting rear toe and rear camber on these cars are to seperate operation's, done in to seperate location's. But they work together, since as you correct for negitive camber you effect the amount of toe you have, forcing you to change the toe adjustment to stay within spec.
He’s a second opinion on why not to adjust rear toe with toe arms/traction arms, this is a cut and paste with the understanding that this person calls the radius rod a “rear trailing arm”.
“The rear trailing arms should not be adjustable in length as some companies are selling them as such. They are claiming this as a way to change the toe. While it does change toe statically...it is not the proper way to do so. Changing the length of this arm puts even more load on the rear hub....this results in "bump steer" or toes the rear wheel out during compression.” BJ Zacharias EVO350
Bottom line, do not try to adjust toe that way. Do it from where the oem toe adjustment is, and if the oem setup does not have enough adjustment. But and install SPC elongated toe cam bolts.
So, adjusting rear toe and rear camber on these cars are to seperate operation's, done in to seperate location's. But they work together, since as you correct for negitive camber you effect the amount of toe you have, forcing you to change the toe adjustment to stay within spec.
The following users liked this post:
Desert Z (01-03-2018)
#3
Prodigal Son
Thread Starter
iTrader: (49)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok thats pretty confusing??
So let me get this straight..If I buy rear camber arms, do I need to get rear toe arms also? Im just trying to prevent feathering / alignment problems in the future and figure since im upgrading I might as well do this..Im only planning on putting in the S-tune suspension with front/rear camber arms and possibly rear toe? arms. Im also planning on a wheel change from the factory 18" (performance) to 19" Pia super rozza or the volk GT-C 9.5"F and 10.5" on rear. Let me know what you all think?? Thanks.
So let me get this straight..If I buy rear camber arms, do I need to get rear toe arms also? Im just trying to prevent feathering / alignment problems in the future and figure since im upgrading I might as well do this..Im only planning on putting in the S-tune suspension with front/rear camber arms and possibly rear toe? arms. Im also planning on a wheel change from the factory 18" (performance) to 19" Pia super rozza or the volk GT-C 9.5"F and 10.5" on rear. Let me know what you all think?? Thanks.
#4
New Member
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by ncparamedic
ok thats pretty confusing??
So let me get this straight..If I buy rear camber arms, do I need to get rear toe arms also? Im just trying to prevent feathering / alignment problems in the future and figure since im upgrading I might as well do this..Im only planning on putting in the S-tune suspension with front/rear camber arms and possibly rear toe? arms. Im also planning on a wheel change from the factory 18" (performance) to 19" Pia super rozza or the volk GT-C 9.5"F and 10.5" on rear. Let me know what you all think?? Thanks.
So let me get this straight..If I buy rear camber arms, do I need to get rear toe arms also? Im just trying to prevent feathering / alignment problems in the future and figure since im upgrading I might as well do this..Im only planning on putting in the S-tune suspension with front/rear camber arms and possibly rear toe? arms. Im also planning on a wheel change from the factory 18" (performance) to 19" Pia super rozza or the volk GT-C 9.5"F and 10.5" on rear. Let me know what you all think?? Thanks.
The odd's are that if you have to use a aftermaket system to adjust rear camber because the oem system could not do enough. Your oem toe adjustment system will most likely also come up short as the aftermarket camber adjust's more. SPC makes a kit that includes new camber arms and elongated toe cam bolts. You'll get the camber range you need AND the toe adjustment range you need.
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Where East Meets West
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is a good link for you to read: http://iapdirect.com/camberfaqs.asp
Also, check this link out: http://www.specprod.com/TECH_DIR/TEC...RT_FUND_2.HTML
These links will include more than you ever wanted to know about alignments.
Also, check this link out: http://www.specprod.com/TECH_DIR/TEC...RT_FUND_2.HTML
These links will include more than you ever wanted to know about alignments.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: norcal
Posts: 863
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so spc is the best option if i wanted to bring my lowered z back to spec in the rear?....what about the fact that companies like stillen and kinetix are offering separate arms for toe and camber...i thought stillen made pretty good products, i wouldn't think that they would offer something that would screw up the geometry of the car..?..?
Last edited by ssc; 05-19-2005 at 03:08 PM.
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Where East Meets West
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think $ for $, the SPC performs the best and is the most affordable. The SPC toe bolt adjusts from the factory location which I would think is the best way to go. Just MO.
#12
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: calgary, alberta, canada
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
2 Posts
joseph
depends on what you do with your car.
street, track, drag? different situations and you'll set your car up differently.
here was a recent thread discussing camber
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/151004-handling-gurus-what-is-the-best-negative-camber.html
pp
depends on what you do with your car.
street, track, drag? different situations and you'll set your car up differently.
here was a recent thread discussing camber
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/151004-handling-gurus-what-is-the-best-negative-camber.html
pp
#14
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: calgary, alberta, canada
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
2 Posts
my opinion only
for street run OEM camber and make sure your toe is correct, they are pretty good as is.
for track, read the thread above
for drag, you want near zero camber
pp
for street run OEM camber and make sure your toe is correct, they are pretty good as is.
for track, read the thread above
for drag, you want near zero camber
pp
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
Originally Posted by Gsedan35
SPC makes a kit that includes new camber arms and elongated toe cam bolts. You'll get the camber range you need AND the toe adjustment range you need.
Here's a link for an example of the claim:
http://www.iapdirect.com/item.asp?invid=622
--Sam
#16
SPC make camber and toe bolts, you oblong the slots which allows more adjustment. If you run adjustable camber arms you don't need the SPC camber bolts. The SPC toe bolts/slotted holes allow you to bring toe into spec after you adjust the camber.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lt_Ballzacki
Brakes & Suspension
39
08-06-2021 06:19 AM
350Z Project X
Suspension
9
10-10-2015 09:23 AM