Tein Flex Rattle 24/7 ... Harmful?
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Tein Flex Rattle 24/7 ... Harmful?
My friend and I just installed the Tein Flex + EDFC into my car this weekend and both my rear shocks are rattling (not just squeaking, but they sound like they're shaking and going to fall OFF at all speeds and all dampening settings).
I've done searches before and know that the culprits are either the bolts securing the rear shock to the fender well or the nut on top of the shock. Well.. for sure it's not the bolts securing the rear shock to the fender well because my friend and I made sure those were extremely tight. But when the rear shock wasn't in the car yet, I had tightened the nut on top of the shock as tight as I could before the piston began spinning too.. and then the nut would just keep spinning with it. Is there a way to tighten it even further than that?
Anyways, my real question is this: both my rear shocks are rattling LOUDLY, at all speeds and all dampening settings. Is this harmful in any way? I probably won't be able to take out the shock to tighten the top nut for another week or two, but I still have to drive with the car every once in awhile (and again man, it is loud...).
Also, is there a way to take out the top of the rear shock with the lower bracket still attached? (So I can just swing out the top of the shock). And I've read something about spraying silicone spray somewhere to quiet the rattle down..?
Any tips or hints would be greatly appreciated!
I've done searches before and know that the culprits are either the bolts securing the rear shock to the fender well or the nut on top of the shock. Well.. for sure it's not the bolts securing the rear shock to the fender well because my friend and I made sure those were extremely tight. But when the rear shock wasn't in the car yet, I had tightened the nut on top of the shock as tight as I could before the piston began spinning too.. and then the nut would just keep spinning with it. Is there a way to tighten it even further than that?
Anyways, my real question is this: both my rear shocks are rattling LOUDLY, at all speeds and all dampening settings. Is this harmful in any way? I probably won't be able to take out the shock to tighten the top nut for another week or two, but I still have to drive with the car every once in awhile (and again man, it is loud...).
Also, is there a way to take out the top of the rear shock with the lower bracket still attached? (So I can just swing out the top of the shock). And I've read something about spraying silicone spray somewhere to quiet the rattle down..?
Any tips or hints would be greatly appreciated!
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It's most likely that it's the pillow ball mount making the noise. From what i've heard this is fairly common. My JICs make the noise a many tein owners have displayed concern with the same problem. I've learned alot about this problem from some threads on this board. (try search) Some lithium should queit it down some but won't make it dissapear. You've seen the stock upper mounts, that rubber was'nt put there to diminish handling it was put there to keep things quiet, so this is the price of performance. How loud is it exactly? can the radio of loud exhaust make it dissapear? If not you might have a bigger problem.
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You should'nt have to tighten the top nut. It comes from the factory with proper torque. Over torquing could damage the pillow ball. You have to take the shock out to access the top, thats one thing i hate, i had to drill holes in my shock tower brace to adj. the dampners. boo hisss.
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The noises are a known design issue. Tein uses metal shims inside the shock bodies..with rebound and compression these shims slap together creating the noise. The noise reverberates through the rear strut bar and its holes (you'll notice the holes). Normally a car's suspension will be completely sealed from such noises but is not in the Z. My friend worked at Tein and installed my EDFC at the time and I have driven at autocross with Sugano (head engineer at TEIN USA...think he's back in Japan now) who came along with our crew...basically this is what they told me. So is it harmful? No. Can you do anything about it? I haven't but I suppose heavy dynamat could help to muffle the sound. Good Luck.
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Thanks for the replies . konspec, as far as how loud the rattle is, I can drown it out when CD volume is set at 12-13, other than that I'm always positive that people outside are seriously thinking, "wtf is that car falling apart?" As for the top nut, it came tight on the front shock but it was loose (not even tightened down) on both rear shocks.
jimster, how loud is your rattle? And do you hear it all the time or just when you're going over speed bumps or bump roads?
jimster, how loud is your rattle? And do you hear it all the time or just when you're going over speed bumps or bump roads?
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Originally Posted by crayons
Thanks for the replies . konspec, as far as how loud the rattle is, I can drown it out when CD volume is set at 12-13, other than that I'm always positive that people outside are seriously thinking, "wtf is that car falling apart?" As for the top nut, it came tight on the front shock but it was loose (not even tightened down) on both rear shocks.
jimster, how loud is your rattle? And do you hear it all the time or just when you're going over speed bumps or bump roads?
jimster, how loud is your rattle? And do you hear it all the time or just when you're going over speed bumps or bump roads?
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Check the green ring that threads up and down the shock. You should have the special tool for it. Mine was loose and allowed some wobble in the shock. I tightend mine and no more loud noise. I do get a noise but only going over harsh bumps.
Good luck,
Matt
Good luck,
Matt
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Thanks again for all the advice, I really appreciate it . I checked all the green ring locks this morning to make sure they were tight. But yeah.. it's getting a bit ridiculous, I'm definitely going to take it apart this coming weekend. What sucks is that since I installed the EDFC too, I'm going to have to take apart all the rear strut bar panels again (which can be a b****) so I can disconnect the harnesses to the motors so that I don't damage them when I take out the rear shocks.
Another question. Here are pictures from the install diagram:
If distance A is lower than the recommended 326mm, that means that the stroke of the shock has been reduced. Would this result in a harsher ride? Because when we put in the shock, I don't believe that it was exactly 326mm (I think it was about 317mm and I just let it slide, I'm such a dumbass). Anyways, the reason why I ask is that even when I'm riding around on the softest settings, I get nauseous enough afterwards to feel like I wanna throw up . Haha maybe not that bad, but I definitely get queasy. I'm wondering if it's just because of bad LA roads or if it's because the rear shock settings are off so that the spring rates no longer match the shock stroke.
In any case, I'm definitely making sure that the distance will be correct this weekend. I'm just wondering if that's the reason why the ride is harsh (on 16, the car is definitely stiffer than stock, and not just "a tad bit stiffer" like most people say).
Thanks again for all your help guys, I really appreciate it!
Another question. Here are pictures from the install diagram:
If distance A is lower than the recommended 326mm, that means that the stroke of the shock has been reduced. Would this result in a harsher ride? Because when we put in the shock, I don't believe that it was exactly 326mm (I think it was about 317mm and I just let it slide, I'm such a dumbass). Anyways, the reason why I ask is that even when I'm riding around on the softest settings, I get nauseous enough afterwards to feel like I wanna throw up . Haha maybe not that bad, but I definitely get queasy. I'm wondering if it's just because of bad LA roads or if it's because the rear shock settings are off so that the spring rates no longer match the shock stroke.
In any case, I'm definitely making sure that the distance will be correct this weekend. I'm just wondering if that's the reason why the ride is harsh (on 16, the car is definitely stiffer than stock, and not just "a tad bit stiffer" like most people say).
Thanks again for all your help guys, I really appreciate it!
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You shouldn't have to remove anything inside. when I took my strut off, there was enough slack in the wire inside the strut brace and I had no problem disconnecting the motor.
Also , how did you mount the edfc unit. How do you keep it from falling down. How is the gap around the edfc. could you post a close up pic.
Thanks,
matt
Also , how did you mount the edfc unit. How do you keep it from falling down. How is the gap around the edfc. could you post a close up pic.
Thanks,
matt
Last edited by mucky; 05-16-2005 at 09:05 PM.
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Here's the best close close-up I have of the EDFC:
I took off that console and dremeled a hole a little smaller than the EDFC unit. I then used a heavy duty file to file the rest, and then used sand paper to make it look better. I just made the hole so that the EDFC unit is VERY snug, and no amount of pushing will move it at all (especially with the little amount of force required to just push the buttons). Since the console is plastic, it'll hug the EDFC unit very snugly if you make the hole the right size. No mounting brackets or tape needed and there's plenty of space underneath the console. I got the idea from nismo33, so props to him . Hope that helps!
I took off that console and dremeled a hole a little smaller than the EDFC unit. I then used a heavy duty file to file the rest, and then used sand paper to make it look better. I just made the hole so that the EDFC unit is VERY snug, and no amount of pushing will move it at all (especially with the little amount of force required to just push the buttons). Since the console is plastic, it'll hug the EDFC unit very snugly if you make the hole the right size. No mounting brackets or tape needed and there's plenty of space underneath the console. I got the idea from nismo33, so props to him . Hope that helps!
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np and thanks for the tip about the motor wires. As for the console it's really not that difficult and hey, if you mess up, you can always get another console piece for like $20 .
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Hmm actually, it looks like it'll probably be around $50 if you mess it up:
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...sort=2a&page=1
They have the A/T console finisher for $50, but I don't see the M/T console finisher listed. You'll probably have to call them and ask. Other than that, goodluck .
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...sort=2a&page=1
They have the A/T console finisher for $50, but I don't see the M/T console finisher listed. You'll probably have to call them and ask. Other than that, goodluck .
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Originally Posted by crayons
Hmm actually, it looks like it'll probably be around $50 if you mess it up:
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...sort=2a&page=1
They have the A/T console finisher for $50, but I don't see the M/T console finisher listed. You'll probably have to call them and ask. Other than that, goodluck .
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...sort=2a&page=1
They have the A/T console finisher for $50, but I don't see the M/T console finisher listed. You'll probably have to call them and ask. Other than that, goodluck .
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my tein flex rattles too!
hey everyone! i just have installed my TIEN FLEX w/ EDFC. i too have some rattling noises coming from the back. at first i thought it was just the suspension just settling in, but after driving for a couple of days it just kept getting louder. i just took it for another spin today and the rattling noise is still der, may be louder i think.
i had mine installed at SGP. is it the TIEN has designed thier stuff or is it just me? if there is any suggestions PLEASE LET ME KNOW. thanks again everyone
i had mine installed at SGP. is it the TIEN has designed thier stuff or is it just me? if there is any suggestions PLEASE LET ME KNOW. thanks again everyone
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Like people have said already, the design of the Tein Flex coilovers themselves make it more prone to be noisy (the price you pay for performance). However, there are a few people who have been able to quiet the "rattle" or make it completely go away by a few things:
1. Tighten the nut on top of the rear shocks. This will keep the washers and bushings down tight so that they don't rattle around during driving. You can also spray some silicon spray or put some lithium grease here too so that the metal-to-metal contacts don't make as much noise. Remember that there are washers and bushings above the upper seat (right below the nut) as well as below the upper seat (you'll be able to see these ones if you look inside your fender well).
2. Tighten the bolts securing the rear shock to the fender well. I'm not sure if this problem gives a rattle or more of a creaking squeak, but these bolts can cause noise too.
Anyone else please feel free to add to the list of solutions .
I'll let you know Sunday after I take everything out if I can solve the problem (I hope I can, my car sounds like a cheap beater whenever I drive around!).
1. Tighten the nut on top of the rear shocks. This will keep the washers and bushings down tight so that they don't rattle around during driving. You can also spray some silicon spray or put some lithium grease here too so that the metal-to-metal contacts don't make as much noise. Remember that there are washers and bushings above the upper seat (right below the nut) as well as below the upper seat (you'll be able to see these ones if you look inside your fender well).
2. Tighten the bolts securing the rear shock to the fender well. I'm not sure if this problem gives a rattle or more of a creaking squeak, but these bolts can cause noise too.
Anyone else please feel free to add to the list of solutions .
I'll let you know Sunday after I take everything out if I can solve the problem (I hope I can, my car sounds like a cheap beater whenever I drive around!).