Notices
Brakes & Suspension 350Z stoppers, coils, shocks/dampers

brake rotor question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 20, 2005 | 05:44 PM
  #1  
schweatty's Avatar
schweatty
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: salt lake city
Default brake rotor question

anybody got any tips on how to remove the rotor from the lugs? the FSM is very vague on this subject. are there bolts behind the dust cover or something? any help is appreciated. thanks in advance
Reply
Old May 20, 2005 | 07:09 PM
  #2  
neur0sis's Avatar
neur0sis
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Default

rubber mallet. We have a "floating" rotor, as its not attached to the hub other than by the brake caliper and the wheel bolts.

You need to remove the caliper, and the mounting bracket for the caliper, and just tap back and forth / top and bottom on the rotor with a rubber mallet. I'll work loose, and slide right off.
Reply
Old May 21, 2005 | 04:38 AM
  #3  
Z-Z's Avatar
Z-Z
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 136
Likes: 1
From: washington
Default

A peice of wood (like a 2x4) will also work if you have no rubber mallet on hand. Off course a real rubber non-maring mallet is better. But I've used wood in a pinch. The wood will dent before causing damage to the rotor. Light taps all around the rotor from the back - so you're trying to knock the rotor off the bolts towards you. Good luck.
Reply
Old May 21, 2005 | 05:56 AM
  #4  
J Ritt's Avatar
J Ritt
New Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte NC
Default

When removing the rear rotors, make sure that you have the parking brake disengaged! Otherwise, you may have a wee bit of trouble getting them off.
Reply
Old May 21, 2005 | 09:12 AM
  #5  
schweatty's Avatar
schweatty
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: salt lake city
Default

thanks for the tips. i was pretty sure they are supposed to just slide off, but they werent for me. i just wanted to check with the experts before i did anything stupid. thanks again!
Reply
Old May 21, 2005 | 03:11 PM
  #6  
daveh's Avatar
daveh
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
From: CA
Default

They were a major pain for me to get off. I used wd-40, mallet and all the four letter words I could think of. I ended up applying a little bit of heat and they finally broke loose.
Reply
Old May 21, 2005 | 04:17 PM
  #7  
schweatty's Avatar
schweatty
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: salt lake city
Default

the 2 by 4 method worked for me. i have a new question now: the banjo bolt is torqued to specs, but the line is loose and its leaking like a sieve. WTFO? i torqued it a little more, but its still leaking and i dont want to break the bolt off. any ideas??
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
XM 1
Engine & Drivetrain
29
Jul 10, 2022 07:44 AM
Stevo Z
SoCal Marketplace
4
Oct 3, 2015 09:14 PM
samansharif
Brakes & Suspension
1
Sep 25, 2015 12:31 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:17 AM.