Please guys, from your experience, when lowering about .8, are the SPC Toe bolts which require grinding to oblong the adjustment holes more, the only way to bring the rear Toe back to the "perfect ideal" location? When I install my new Cusco rear camber adjustment links to bring the camber back to the ideal tire lasting location (stock), will the Toe be way out from "perfect", with out enough adjustment?

 

1. you likely won't even need the toe bolts with that mild of a rear drop
2. Cusco does not offer rear links yet

 

I'm sorry, JIC rear camber adjustment arms. I had a tech look at it on a alignment rack. I am just concerned the TOE won't be in spec.

 

With our rear suspension design, as you get camber back into spec, say from really negative to more positive, your toe will be come in more, in other words aspect ca,ber/toe gets aligned the other gets misaligned. Id say you have a 50/50 chance at aligning the car with the camber arms, and the very small amount of stock toe adjustment via the eccentric bolt-your drop isnt big. But as a precaution and to avoid the chance of having to align again later down the road, Id buy the SPC toe bolts from www.iapdirect.com and have them installed at the same time, I have these and Kinetix camber arms and my camber is acceptable now with almost a 2" drop. Good luck.

 

The JIC arms only give negative camber. You won't need camber arms with a .8 drop.

 

DO the Stillen give possitive camber without dropped car?

 

The front is probably .8, the rear 1.0. I already had it on the rack and it's way off (all red) on the computer. It had like -2 degress in the back. I need adjustment to make it more posive camber in the rear and bring Toe into spec. I'l raise it back up .2 in the rear if I have to.

 

Man 2 degrees negative camber is nothing. Ive been everywhere from stock to -4.2, Im at -2.2 now and my tires are wearing ok. Im not to sure about the guys statement concerning the JIC arms only providing negative camber, that doesnt make sense.

 

Ya, I find it hard to believe the JIC rear Camber adjustment arms only have negative adjustment. The JIC Magic website says "correct uneven tire wear or add negative caber for racing". I assume "to correct uneven tire wear" means add positive camber. I just don't like the idea of grinding on my car. I guess I will if there is no other way.

 

there is no physical way the JIC arm works differently from any other arm...it is fully threaded so provides positive and negative adjustment

2 degrees is really not far off from stock at all out back, and pays big dividends in terms of handling (and wont affect tire wear at all from my personal experience)

 

My car is lowered approx .8", and I didn't need the toe bolts as there was still adequate adjustibility in the original slot. It's even questionable whether I needed the camber arms either since there is some adjustment there as well.

 

Off the subject, is there any real advantages or disadvantages to the TRACTION arms.

 

In your case no. Traction arms are really the arms that adjust toe back into spec, but like mentioned already you have a little adjustability stock and your not dropped much you should just get it into spec as much as you can with stock set-up by a good alignment shop. That will be more than enough in your case, your rear camber is not bad at all.

 

I just swapped out my rear tires and they were worn horribly. I have the Hotchkis springs which lower about 3/4" and the inside of each tire was showing belts while the outsides still had a slight about of tread left on them. So I am assuming I need some camber arms to correct my negative camber issues. I looked on the website posted earlier for the toe bolts, but couldnt find them. Anyone have a more direct link?

I am looking into the Kinetix camber arms for $199. Any comments on these??

 

See Post #4 Above From Alberto

 

with how many miles? what tire?

 

The bushing material used may squeek over time. I went with the pillow type bushing (rubber) by JIC

 

I guess there is more ot it than I am saying. The rears are the ones that came on the car. I have roughly 27k miles on them. The tires are the RE040s. Also, I have about 10 AutoX events on them as well. I think I am going to go with the SPC arms and toe bolts. Looks like the most highly praised and cheapest option out there!

 

27k including auto-x....I would not complain about that on any tire, especially on a RWD car

 

Need some help guys I will be lowering my Z w/nismo s-tune (.8") and I will add 20's. 20x10 rear. Will I need the SPC Kit.