Querry on springs.
#21
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its dangerous to ask any kind of "what is best" question,, its totally subjective and is more opinion, hype than fact. what sucks and is junk for one may be the best for another..
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rolling
i noticed in your signature your tire choice, and i figured you were 265 front/rear, but didn't want to do any more assuming, so i asked the question . and explains perfectly your ability to achieve your handling balance, well done
oleg, to explain, another source of understeer in the 350z is that it comes with different front/rear tire sizes (stock 225 and 245). rolling has removed some of the understeer by going with the same size front/rear tires. the article quoted is a well known article and a worthwhile read.
we've been talking exclusively springs in this thread, but all of springs/shocks/tire choice/tire pressure/sways/weight balance determine the way the vehicle will handle.
note, however, if you have a VDC equiped vehicle, the electronics will be unhappy, as it looks for the factory stagger. this can be disabled. it's a matter of how far you want to go to achieve your handling goals. i comprimised, i went 255/275 rather than the typical 245/275, while rolling went 265/265.
pp
i noticed in your signature your tire choice, and i figured you were 265 front/rear, but didn't want to do any more assuming, so i asked the question . and explains perfectly your ability to achieve your handling balance, well done
oleg, to explain, another source of understeer in the 350z is that it comes with different front/rear tire sizes (stock 225 and 245). rolling has removed some of the understeer by going with the same size front/rear tires. the article quoted is a well known article and a worthwhile read.
we've been talking exclusively springs in this thread, but all of springs/shocks/tire choice/tire pressure/sways/weight balance determine the way the vehicle will handle.
note, however, if you have a VDC equiped vehicle, the electronics will be unhappy, as it looks for the factory stagger. this can be disabled. it's a matter of how far you want to go to achieve your handling goals. i comprimised, i went 255/275 rather than the typical 245/275, while rolling went 265/265.
pp
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Originally Posted by palepony
rolling
note, however, if you have a VDC equiped vehicle, the electronics will be unhappy, as it looks for the factory stagger. this can be disabled. it's a matter of how far you want to go to achieve your handling goals. i comprimised, i went 255/275 rather than the typical 245/275, while rolling went 265/265.
pp
note, however, if you have a VDC equiped vehicle, the electronics will be unhappy, as it looks for the factory stagger. this can be disabled. it's a matter of how far you want to go to achieve your handling goals. i comprimised, i went 255/275 rather than the typical 245/275, while rolling went 265/265.
pp
one final side note.. I have not had any problems with my VDC or other electronics activating different that b4, I think you need to have DRASTIC size changes for that to happen.. but not here so far hehe (holding breath!)
#25
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To all the suspension wisemen...
OK, the self-inflicted torture continues...
For shocks I have stopped on the Tokico D-spec (blue)
For springs I have rounded it up to 3 candidates. They all drop the car by between 0.6 and 0.8 inches (should not need additional allignment hardware, I think). If I uderstand the concepts of weight transfer, these rates (lbs/inch) should impact it as follows:
RSR (365/417) should have the most oversteer
TEIN-S (386/403) should be most neutral, but also the stiffest
Hotchkis (340/330) should create most understeer, but is the softest.
They are prices in similar ballpark. If I go for RSRs though, does going for the Ti one justify the extra $? How much unsprung weight am I saving on those?
With the shocks set to medium, these all should fit. With this set-up, is there any changes I have to do to my sway bar setting (they are both set on medium for now)?
Please point out all the mistakes I have made here.
Also, would I achieve a better launch with Kinetx traction rods?
Will the GT-spec hardware will help me benefit in turns from the additional chassis stiffness?
Thank you very much for pointing me in the right direction so far...
OK, the self-inflicted torture continues...
For shocks I have stopped on the Tokico D-spec (blue)
For springs I have rounded it up to 3 candidates. They all drop the car by between 0.6 and 0.8 inches (should not need additional allignment hardware, I think). If I uderstand the concepts of weight transfer, these rates (lbs/inch) should impact it as follows:
RSR (365/417) should have the most oversteer
TEIN-S (386/403) should be most neutral, but also the stiffest
Hotchkis (340/330) should create most understeer, but is the softest.
They are prices in similar ballpark. If I go for RSRs though, does going for the Ti one justify the extra $? How much unsprung weight am I saving on those?
With the shocks set to medium, these all should fit. With this set-up, is there any changes I have to do to my sway bar setting (they are both set on medium for now)?
Please point out all the mistakes I have made here.
Also, would I achieve a better launch with Kinetx traction rods?
Will the GT-spec hardware will help me benefit in turns from the additional chassis stiffness?
Thank you very much for pointing me in the right direction so far...
#26
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oleg, no torture, i think you're getting it
tokico's - good choice, you've now eliminated the bounce, and adjustability to boot.
the comments you've made regarding oversteer/understeer for each spring choice are correct, however, with one caveat that i think you already know. remember, its all the components you choose that will determine in the end the handling characteristic of the whole setup. an example is rollings setup, although his spring choice would promote understeer, his tire choice results in the end combined result of a very neutral setup by his testimony.
all good spring choices by the way.
in regards to changing shock settings, sway settings. one step at a time there big guy! tackle the spring choice first. install them, set the shocks/sways to neutral. drive. evaluate. and adjust only one variable at a time to achieve your handling balance. if you change everything at once you won't know what made the change.
with respect to RSR - just get the down
with respect to GT-spec - don't know, although it has been discussed before i believe. a search reveals
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hlight=GT+spec
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hlight=GT+spec
with respect to "traction arms". they do not improve "traction" in the sense that you're thinking with respect to launching. you don't need them. more reading
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....=traction+arms
pp
tokico's - good choice, you've now eliminated the bounce, and adjustability to boot.
the comments you've made regarding oversteer/understeer for each spring choice are correct, however, with one caveat that i think you already know. remember, its all the components you choose that will determine in the end the handling characteristic of the whole setup. an example is rollings setup, although his spring choice would promote understeer, his tire choice results in the end combined result of a very neutral setup by his testimony.
all good spring choices by the way.
in regards to changing shock settings, sway settings. one step at a time there big guy! tackle the spring choice first. install them, set the shocks/sways to neutral. drive. evaluate. and adjust only one variable at a time to achieve your handling balance. if you change everything at once you won't know what made the change.
with respect to RSR - just get the down
with respect to GT-spec - don't know, although it has been discussed before i believe. a search reveals
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hlight=GT+spec
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....hlight=GT+spec
with respect to "traction arms". they do not improve "traction" in the sense that you're thinking with respect to launching. you don't need them. more reading
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....=traction+arms
pp
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yea i agree with pale,
i dont know about traction arms never hadem'
from what i have seene at the trach usualy they are on VERY high HP cars (usually american muscle cars) or 4wd trucks or vehicles that have enough power to "hop" the back axle
i dont know about traction arms never hadem'
from what i have seene at the trach usualy they are on VERY high HP cars (usually american muscle cars) or 4wd trucks or vehicles that have enough power to "hop" the back axle
#28
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Ok, so if its the shock setting that determines the ride stiffness, what does going with a higher/lower spring rate determines? Do some spring rates work on some shock settings, but not other? Or is it that the shocks can take only a certaing range of rates? And finally, going between 340 lbs/inch to 365 (front) and 330-417 on back, does it make that drastic of a feel in ride quality?
And I was reading the Sport Compact Mag today,, these people from the USCC are running like 800 lbs/inch rates and higher... What's is that all about?
And I was reading the Sport Compact Mag today,, these people from the USCC are running like 800 lbs/inch rates and higher... What's is that all about?
#29
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oleg
1. no, the shock setting is only part of what determines ride stiffness. i would not use the shock adjustment to dramatically change your handling, use your spring choice to do that. Note that the shock absorbers do not change the amount of weight transfer, only the time it takes to transfer this weight. Since the shock controls the motion of the spring, increased spring rates require more rebound damping for control and that is one of the reasons why rebound adjustable shocks are desirable.
2. you will notice a difference between 330 and 417 lb/in
3. 800lb/in WILL NOT fit your needs
pp
1. no, the shock setting is only part of what determines ride stiffness. i would not use the shock adjustment to dramatically change your handling, use your spring choice to do that. Note that the shock absorbers do not change the amount of weight transfer, only the time it takes to transfer this weight. Since the shock controls the motion of the spring, increased spring rates require more rebound damping for control and that is one of the reasons why rebound adjustable shocks are desirable.
2. you will notice a difference between 330 and 417 lb/in
3. 800lb/in WILL NOT fit your needs
pp
Last edited by palepony; 09-13-2005 at 08:34 PM.
#31
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are you bothered by a firm ride? on paper, an RSR/tokico will be firmer but not punishing.
now that you've chosen the right springs for your needs, post a new thread asking RSR owners for their experience to finally round out your research. remember, i haven't owned this spring/shock combo, on paper it makes sense for your needs. try pm'ing the member "Z1 Performance", I believe he has experience with the RSR. this will ensure their haven't been any "bad experiences"
pp
now that you've chosen the right springs for your needs, post a new thread asking RSR owners for their experience to finally round out your research. remember, i haven't owned this spring/shock combo, on paper it makes sense for your needs. try pm'ing the member "Z1 Performance", I believe he has experience with the RSR. this will ensure their haven't been any "bad experiences"
pp
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